Need advice. Upper Control Arm
#16
Rock auto is preetttyyyyy good with ALOT of the products that they sell and allow to be sold on their sight. I bought ALOT of parts from them last summer trying to re-vive my 92. Give them a look as well. I don't know anything about the SPECIFIC brand that you listed above b/c when I ordered mine (years ago,,OEM) I hadn't even heard of/looked at Rockauto, but just keep in mind that honestly,, you get what is paid for. It may last awhile,,it may not.
#18
Lexus Champion
here is an odd idea - if you know someone who can read Japanese - I have successfully found OEM parts like this on Japan's equivalent of ebay - which is called Yahoo Japan auctions (ebay has no presence in Japan, they tried and failed in competing with Yahoo auctions there)
this exact new part - the real Lexus upper control arms - show up on that site for a good deal from time to time, saw one on there a couple weeks ago, actually! - just search on the Lexus (Toyota) part number!
this exact new part - the real Lexus upper control arms - show up on that site for a good deal from time to time, saw one on there a couple weeks ago, actually! - just search on the Lexus (Toyota) part number!
Last edited by LScowboyLS; 02-17-12 at 10:06 PM.
#19
BahHumBug
iTrader: (10)
here is an odd idea - if you know someone who can read Japanese - I have successfully found OEM parts like this on Japan's equivalent of ebay - which is called Yahoo Japan auctions (ebay has no presence in Japan, they tried and failed in competing with Yahoo auctions there)
this exact new part - the real Lexus upper control arms - show up on that site for a good deal from time to time, saw one on there a couple weeks ago, actually! - just search on the Lexus (Toyota) part number!
this exact new part - the real Lexus upper control arms - show up on that site for a good deal from time to time, saw one on there a couple weeks ago, actually! - just search on the Lexus (Toyota) part number!
and still not end up with OEM arms.
#20
front upper control arm ... a cheap solution
Yes. There is a simple (& safe) solution for $50 per arm, but it takes a bit of leg work. I wrote about this recently.
Here ...
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls4...ml#post7015221
I was very frustrated a month ago when I found out a pair of new OEM UCA is $1300 for 1LS (and all those Chinese arms can not be trusted). I ended up installing two used OEM arms, at $50 each. One from my local junk yard & one from ebay. They worked out very well. Problem solved for $100 + labor charge.
(note: very important to check bushings and ball joint for play before buying an used oem arm. To check for ball joint play (see the repair manual or ask someone), turn it upside down, on a hard surface push down and feel for any play. A tiny amount of play ok. Best to find one with no play at all.)
After researching, I also suspect new arms from Dorman might be good (I spoke with their tech support and was told the arms are manufactured in Taiwan). New Dorman arms are reasonably priced. I am surprised the Dorman arms are not talked about here on CL.
I also learned something else while dealing with the suspension. It helps to spray some WD-40 in various places. That will get rid many squeaky noises typical with old cars. I was told by an experience mechanic to do this once every 6 to 12 months. It made a huge difference in my case.
Also, here ...
The source of the problem is not the boot or that "stop" in above pictures. The boot and stop break because the taper is too thin. The taper is that little short shaft with the thread. The taper on [some] Arnott arms are thinner than OEM. That obviously is a huge problem because the hole on top of the knuckle is fixed in size.
Another member today just told us Arnott bushings doesn't last. When I took my stock arm out last month, the two 19 year old bushings were perfectly fine. The ball joint had developed too much play over the years though.
Here ...
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls4...ml#post7015221
I was very frustrated a month ago when I found out a pair of new OEM UCA is $1300 for 1LS (and all those Chinese arms can not be trusted). I ended up installing two used OEM arms, at $50 each. One from my local junk yard & one from ebay. They worked out very well. Problem solved for $100 + labor charge.
(note: very important to check bushings and ball joint for play before buying an used oem arm. To check for ball joint play (see the repair manual or ask someone), turn it upside down, on a hard surface push down and feel for any play. A tiny amount of play ok. Best to find one with no play at all.)
After researching, I also suspect new arms from Dorman might be good (I spoke with their tech support and was told the arms are manufactured in Taiwan). New Dorman arms are reasonably priced. I am surprised the Dorman arms are not talked about here on CL.
I also learned something else while dealing with the suspension. It helps to spray some WD-40 in various places. That will get rid many squeaky noises typical with old cars. I was told by an experience mechanic to do this once every 6 to 12 months. It made a huge difference in my case.
Also, here ...
The source of the problem is not the boot or that "stop" in above pictures. The boot and stop break because the taper is too thin. The taper is that little short shaft with the thread. The taper on [some] Arnott arms are thinner than OEM. That obviously is a huge problem because the hole on top of the knuckle is fixed in size.
Another member today just told us Arnott bushings doesn't last. When I took my stock arm out last month, the two 19 year old bushings were perfectly fine. The ball joint had developed too much play over the years though.
#21
What about the rebuild control arms lextreme are selling, http://www.lextreme.com/Lexus-Control-Arms.html ?
#23
What about the rebuild control arms lextreme are selling, http://www.lextreme.com/Lexus-Control-Arms.html ?
The ball joint is the one that goes bad and it cannot be replaced.
#24
I had brought my upper control arms from Rock Auto for a good price and they haven't given my any problems since I replaced them in 2009. Check this link: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.
#25
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (5)
Yes. There is a simple (& safe) solution for $50 per arm, but it takes a bit of leg work. I wrote about this recently.
Here ...
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls4...ml#post7015221
I was very frustrated a month ago when I found out a pair of new OEM UCA is $1300 for 1LS (and all those Chinese arms can not be trusted). I ended up installing two used OEM arms, at $50 each. One from my local junk yard & one from ebay. They worked out very well. Problem solved for $100 + labor charge.
(note: very important to check bushings and ball joint for play before buying an used oem arm. To check for ball joint play (see the repair manual or ask someone), turn it upside down, on a hard surface push down and feel for any play. A tiny amount of play ok. Best to find one with no play at all.)
After researching, I also suspect new arms from Dorman might be good (I spoke with their tech support and was told the arms are manufactured in Taiwan). New Dorman arms are reasonably priced. I am surprised the Dorman arms are not talked about here on CL.
I also learned something else while dealing with the suspension. It helps to spray some WD-40 in various places. That will get rid many squeaky noises typical with old cars. I was told by an experience mechanic to do this once every 6 to 12 months. It made a huge difference in my case.
Also, here ...
The source of the problem is not the boot or that "stop" in above pictures. The boot and stop break because the taper is too thin. The taper is that little short shaft with the thread. The taper on [some] Arnott arms are thinner than OEM. That obviously is a huge problem because the hole on top of the knuckle is fixed in size.
Another member today just told us Arnott bushings doesn't last. When I took my stock arm out last month, the two 19 year old bushings were perfectly fine. The ball joint had developed too much play over the years though.
Here ...
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls4...ml#post7015221
I was very frustrated a month ago when I found out a pair of new OEM UCA is $1300 for 1LS (and all those Chinese arms can not be trusted). I ended up installing two used OEM arms, at $50 each. One from my local junk yard & one from ebay. They worked out very well. Problem solved for $100 + labor charge.
(note: very important to check bushings and ball joint for play before buying an used oem arm. To check for ball joint play (see the repair manual or ask someone), turn it upside down, on a hard surface push down and feel for any play. A tiny amount of play ok. Best to find one with no play at all.)
After researching, I also suspect new arms from Dorman might be good (I spoke with their tech support and was told the arms are manufactured in Taiwan). New Dorman arms are reasonably priced. I am surprised the Dorman arms are not talked about here on CL.
I also learned something else while dealing with the suspension. It helps to spray some WD-40 in various places. That will get rid many squeaky noises typical with old cars. I was told by an experience mechanic to do this once every 6 to 12 months. It made a huge difference in my case.
Also, here ...
The source of the problem is not the boot or that "stop" in above pictures. The boot and stop break because the taper is too thin. The taper is that little short shaft with the thread. The taper on [some] Arnott arms are thinner than OEM. That obviously is a huge problem because the hole on top of the knuckle is fixed in size.
Another member today just told us Arnott bushings doesn't last. When I took my stock arm out last month, the two 19 year old bushings were perfectly fine. The ball joint had developed too much play over the years though.
thanks for info.
#26
Lexus Champion
and still not end up with OEM arms
there really aren't any such a thing as crooks in Japan, it is a strange place indeed for this planet!!
#27
Back on topic, can anybody else confirm Rock Auto parts are generally goooooood quality, espeicially their upper control arms?
#28
So what's the deal with some of these arms with the wrong joint???
Just replaced one on my 90' and no one said anything about looking out for the wrong ball joint!
I did notice and found odd that the arm I got didn't have a stop on the ball joint taper like the destroyed OEM one I removed. Almost took it back off but it was seated so tightly already I said screw it. It's got a castle nut and a pin so I don't thing the nut is going to move but should I be worried?? (I ordered the beck/arnley off rockauto for 250$) ball joint was tight and what I would expect from a new joint but didnt impress. Wish moog made one always been very happy with their stuff.
I'm replacing the other side this week so any input before I order the doorman would be great!
I seriously doubt Toyota make the oem ones anyway so who makes em for them??? Gotta be someone fairly big.
(honestly thought there was a fair chance the oem was a b/a but obviously not)
Thanks
Just replaced one on my 90' and no one said anything about looking out for the wrong ball joint!
I did notice and found odd that the arm I got didn't have a stop on the ball joint taper like the destroyed OEM one I removed. Almost took it back off but it was seated so tightly already I said screw it. It's got a castle nut and a pin so I don't thing the nut is going to move but should I be worried?? (I ordered the beck/arnley off rockauto for 250$) ball joint was tight and what I would expect from a new joint but didnt impress. Wish moog made one always been very happy with their stuff.
I'm replacing the other side this week so any input before I order the doorman would be great!
I seriously doubt Toyota make the oem ones anyway so who makes em for them??? Gotta be someone fairly big.
(honestly thought there was a fair chance the oem was a b/a but obviously not)
Thanks
Last edited by j2b4o; 03-26-12 at 03:09 PM.
#29
UCA by Arnott APX DMA Dorman and OEM ....
We can see here on CL that Arnott is no good. I am not sure about APX. APX is just a reseller and they source the arm from DMA Goodpoint. I called DMA Goodpoint and they no longer sell the arms (as of two months ago).
My guess is Arnott, APX, DMA Goodpoint, are all resellers. They all sell the same crap from China with the bad ball joint design If you go on Alibaba.com you will find you can buy these arms by the 100s or 1000s for very very cheap. My guess is all those arms on ebay are from this source in China. All crap.
Dorman may be different and better, but I am not certain at this point.
I searched and have not seen feedback from CL members about Dorman UCA. This is strange because the OEM is so expensive ($600) and I thought by now we would have some feedbacks about Dorman.
I called Dorman tech support directly today 800-523-2492 www.dormanproducts.com (1/9/2012). The man on the phone told me they design and engineer this part and they are manufactured in Taiwan.
http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-2213...2520Suspension
The fact I got a real tech support person to tell me this gives me some comfort.
I will probably buy one Dorman arm and try it out. At $195 I think I am will to give them a try. (And Amazon.com will take it back if I tell them it's crap.) This product is also sold on rockauto.com.
Dorman part no. 520-459 and 520-460 (L and R upper control arm for first gen LS)
If you know anything about these Dorman UCA please share your knowledge with us.
We can see here on CL that Arnott is no good. I am not sure about APX. APX is just a reseller and they source the arm from DMA Goodpoint. I called DMA Goodpoint and they no longer sell the arms (as of two months ago).
My guess is Arnott, APX, DMA Goodpoint, are all resellers. They all sell the same crap from China with the bad ball joint design If you go on Alibaba.com you will find you can buy these arms by the 100s or 1000s for very very cheap. My guess is all those arms on ebay are from this source in China. All crap.
Dorman may be different and better, but I am not certain at this point.
I searched and have not seen feedback from CL members about Dorman UCA. This is strange because the OEM is so expensive ($600) and I thought by now we would have some feedbacks about Dorman.
I called Dorman tech support directly today 800-523-2492 www.dormanproducts.com (1/9/2012). The man on the phone told me they design and engineer this part and they are manufactured in Taiwan.
http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-2213...2520Suspension
The fact I got a real tech support person to tell me this gives me some comfort.
I will probably buy one Dorman arm and try it out. At $195 I think I am will to give them a try. (And Amazon.com will take it back if I tell them it's crap.) This product is also sold on rockauto.com.
Dorman part no. 520-459 and 520-460 (L and R upper control arm for first gen LS)
If you know anything about these Dorman UCA please share your knowledge with us.
I wouldn't hesitate using dorman control arms
#30
My Arnott UCAs failed after one year. The bushings just disintegrated and the boot cracked. FWIW, Neither the one the failed, nor the ones I replaced under warranty, had the incorrect ball joint size.