Rock auto is preetttyyyyy good with ALOT of the products that they sell and allow to be sold on their sight. I bought ALOT of parts from them last summer trying to re-vive my 92. Give them a look as well. I don't know anything about the SPECIFIC brand that you listed above b/c when I ordered mine (years ago,,OEM) I hadn't even heard of/looked at Rockauto, but just keep in mind that honestly,, you get what is paid for. It may last awhile,,it may not.

 

moat: any updates? how's the quality on them aftermarket uca's?

 

here is an odd idea - if you know someone who can read Japanese - I have successfully found OEM parts like this on Japan's equivalent of ebay - which is called Yahoo Japan auctions (ebay has no presence in Japan, they tried and failed in competing with Yahoo auctions there)

this exact new part - the real Lexus upper control arms - show up on that site for a good deal from time to time, saw one on there a couple weeks ago, actually! - just search on the Lexus (Toyota) part number!

 

when you do that remember to factor in the banking fee, currency exchange fee, intermediary fee (most sellers don't ship international, so you have to use an intermediate service that charges ~10-15%.), and then of course the shipping costs for 2 chunks of metal across an ocean.

and still not end up with OEM arms.

 

Yes. There is a simple (& safe) solution for $50 per arm, but it takes a bit of leg work. I wrote about this recently.

Here ...

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls4...ml#post7015221

I was very frustrated a month ago when I found out a pair of new OEM UCA is $1300 for 1LS (and all those Chinese arms can not be trusted). I ended up installing two used OEM arms, at $50 each. One from my local junk yard & one from ebay. They worked out very well. Problem solved for $100 + labor charge.

(note: very important to check bushings and ball joint for play before buying an used oem arm. To check for ball joint play (see the repair manual or ask someone), turn it upside down, on a hard surface push down and feel for any play. A tiny amount of play ok. Best to find one with no play at all.)

After researching, I also suspect new arms from Dorman might be good (I spoke with their tech support and was told the arms are manufactured in Taiwan). New Dorman arms are reasonably priced. I am surprised the Dorman arms are not talked about here on CL.

I also learned something else while dealing with the suspension. It helps to spray some WD-40 in various places. That will get rid many squeaky noises typical with old cars. I was told by an experience mechanic to do this once every 6 to 12 months. It made a huge difference in my case.

Also, here ...

The source of the problem is not the boot or that "stop" in above pictures. The boot and stop break because the taper is too thin. The taper is that little short shaft with the thread. The taper on [some] Arnott arms are thinner than OEM. That obviously is a huge problem because the hole on top of the knuckle is fixed in size.

Another member today just told us Arnott bushings doesn't last. When I took my stock arm out last month, the two 19 year old bushings were perfectly fine. The ball joint had developed too much play over the years though.

 

What about the rebuild control arms lextreme are selling, http://www.lextreme.com/Lexus-Control-Arms.html ?

 

Interesting posts everyone. Can someone tell me what happens when these upper control arms are going out? How do you know? Thanks, bradley

 

Typically it's not the bushings that go bad. Also, I heard it's hard to find those bushings now.

The ball joint is the one that goes bad and it cannot be replaced.

 

I had brought my upper control arms from Rock Auto for a good price and they haven't given my any problems since I replaced them in 2009. Check this link: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.

 

good info sir. I may go the lazy route and order Dorman UCA's.

thanks for info.

 

nope - the parts I have bought from Japan off of Yahoo Japan auctions have a minimum of fees and have always turned out to be genuine Toyota

there really aren't any such a thing as crooks in Japan, it is a strange place indeed for this planet!!

 

There still are but they don't rob their own people, other third world countries, maybe

Back on topic, can anybody else confirm Rock Auto parts are generally goooooood quality, espeicially their upper control arms?

 

So what's the deal with some of these arms with the wrong joint???
Just replaced one on my 90' and no one said anything about looking out for the wrong ball joint!
I did notice and found odd that the arm I got didn't have a stop on the ball joint taper like the destroyed OEM one I removed. Almost took it back off but it was seated so tightly already I said screw it. It's got a castle nut and a pin so I don't thing the nut is going to move but should I be worried?? (I ordered the beck/arnley off rockauto for 250$) ball joint was tight and what I would expect from a new joint but didnt impress. Wish moog made one always been very happy with their stuff.

I'm replacing the other side this week so any input before I order the doorman would be great!
I seriously doubt Toyota make the oem ones anyway so who makes em for them??? Gotta be someone fairly big.
(honestly thought there was a fair chance the oem was a b/a but obviously not)
Thanks

 

dorman is starting to be the best aftermarket OEM replacement for alot of parts of all makes and models. I've used alot of dorman products in the past when I worked at a couple shops no complaints at all.

I wouldn't hesitate using dorman control arms

 

My Arnott UCAs failed after one year. The bushings just disintegrated and the boot cracked. FWIW, Neither the one the failed, nor the ones I replaced under warranty, had the incorrect ball joint size.