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Old Sep 29, 2011 | 06:09 PM
  #31  
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Let them do all they will do. Put the ECU back in so as not to let them know you have been messing around with it. Now you know how to do it and it wont take as long next time.
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Old Sep 29, 2011 | 06:18 PM
  #32  
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i never went back and took it out. i just put the panel back in.they replaced all the parts toda- y wire caps rptor and spark plugs and i doubt it was with OEM parts. so kinda worried about that. you warned me not to put on generic parts.
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Old Sep 29, 2011 | 06:22 PM
  #33  
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Well, it is what it is. We will have to work around it If it becomes a problem. Wires are probably my biggest concern.
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Old Oct 1, 2011 | 10:46 AM
  #34  
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no more check engine lights. all new breaks. they still make this strange noise though when first starting out. like the first two times you hit the breaks. radio has went south. but i kinda enjoy the quietness. lol

now trying to decide on putting in leds. inplace of the burnt out lights in the cluster or just go grab as many as i can from the scrap yard.
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Old Oct 1, 2011 | 10:52 AM
  #35  
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What lights are not working in the cluster?
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Old Oct 1, 2011 | 11:04 AM
  #36  
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the ones i pulled out that were burnt. some of the shifter positions lights, high beam indicator,

looks to be a mix of T1.25 and T1.5 lights. on lexls. it says just use all 1.5?
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Old Oct 1, 2011 | 11:20 AM
  #37  
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Those are fairly cheap at the dealer. Goes by the color of the plastic base.
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Old Oct 1, 2011 | 11:40 AM
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Did the dealer do anything with the O2 sensor or the AFM b/c of the codes that it had? Did they ever figure out what the slight jerk at 40-45 was, is it still doing it? I think mine is due to the ECU b/c my light just blinks steadily when I check for codes although it should have a code or two stored in there. I still gotta pull mine and check it. Good that you got all new brakes though, that's one thing you don't want to worry about.
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Old Oct 1, 2011 | 11:49 AM
  #39  
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na they could not figure it out or they didnt want to replace the AFM and the o2 sensors. but i pulled the AFM out of the housing. blew it out with a large can of pc air i had here. i actualy stuck the nozzle right up to the 3 or 4 holes it has. jerking went away. cleared the ecu by pulling the 20amp under the hood and the codes went away have not come back. "shrugs"

45 bucks for these 3 different types of bulbs from the dealer they would have to order them and would charge me $45 bucks for 10 bulbs. uggg..... goin to the scrap yard. on a very tight budget right now.
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Old Oct 4, 2011 | 07:31 AM
  #40  
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codes came back over the weekend. only o2 sensors though. front main left. code 21. ordered 2 new front main o2 sensors. they should be here by the weekend.

i have also noticed since the weatgher has change when i run with the air off. the car runs under temp. noticed that last night then this morning i kinda tested it by running the air till the car got upto temp then shut the air off. the temp dropped. back to the 2nd bar then only went back upto inbetween the 2nd and 3rd.

so im gona guess i need to get a Temp sensor???

ive never ever seen my radiator fans running? is there a way to test those? maybe the temp sensor in bottom radiator is bad. that the one that trips them on right?
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Old Oct 20, 2011 | 09:21 PM
  #41  
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Update: replaced front o2's and coolant temp sensor. runs great. gas millage is way up. but i have noticed i still have a slight hessitation on pulling away from redlight, and its got power but not tire smoking power? no i dont have trac control and yes i have searched. LOL

also noticed now its not getting upto temp even with the a/c on?
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Old Oct 21, 2011 | 01:49 PM
  #42  
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jumpered Fp and B+ and put fuel pump full on for a few miles this morning. it stayed good after unjumpering it. so maybe i just had some clogged lines. all seems good. thought maybe the fuel pump ecu was going bad to be the last thing on getting it upto normal power. but gladly it wasnt atleast for now.
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Old Oct 21, 2011 | 02:58 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by SkulCracka
jumpered Fp and B+ and put fuel pump full on for a few miles this morning. it stayed good after unjumpering it. so maybe i just had some clogged lines. all seems good. thought maybe the fuel pump ecu was going bad to be the last thing on getting it upto normal power. but gladly it wasnt atleast for now.
Were you going by that link I posted on page 1? I'm not sure if bypassing the fuel pump ECU does anything for the LS, I've read contradicting threads on that issue so I never tried it.
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Old Oct 21, 2011 | 06:31 PM
  #44  
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oh it worked. just do it for a few minutes drive then decide. post #8 https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...on-issues.html
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Old Oct 24, 2011 | 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by SkulCracka
oh it worked. just do it for a few minutes drive then decide. post #8 https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...on-issues.html
Out of all the times that I've posted that link for other members to check everything, (at least 100 times) I've never tried jumping those terminals for the fuel pump. I did try it on Sat. to see if it cleared up my hesitation and skip at 40MPH, no luck, it didn't work. I did notice it had much better take off power and it seemed like the car was faster but no difference at 40MPH. I think my problem is the car's ECU.
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