I have thought about the internal baffle for oil from moving especially with quick acceleration and hard braking. Please see my drawing if this is what your intention.

Now, the second question. How would the left turbo and right turbo be connected? I assume they would be connect via a oil hose of some kind.

 

This picture is where i connect two turbos together via a SS braided line (the line must tight).

 

Please, PM me next time you go to San Diego. I would really like to take a look at your setup

 

Your 1st drawing is correct although the baffle is not for cornering forces it is to draw liquid oil under it into the pump feed. Without it the vacuum would be less effective.

Your second drawing worries me slightly. You do understand the sump boxes will mount under the turbos, directly to the outlet flange (with a gasket) and be oriented "flat" so that the 3/4" dimension is parralel to the road... yes.

Next, I would not plumb the outlet of the driver turbo sump into the passenger sump. You want as much internal area in the sump to allow the foaming oil to drain unrestricted.

Why do you need the line between the 2 turbos tight?

Also, you may want to try using a T and running a separate feed from each turbo. I would even suggest trying this AND clocking the turbos oil flow straight up and down. I understand the clearance problem but as a test, and seeing as a T will be needed anyway, you may find this cures the problem without sumps. An Incon Twin Turbo Firebird owner did just this as that system used bulky sumps. He had pictures but the links are no longer good.

I would T the line and clock the turbos. If this works, you just need to fabricate shorter 90 degree AN angles and flanges. If not, the sump construction would be advised.

 

The oil system is solved. My turbos doesnt smoke anymore. The restrictors helped. Since, I dont have the smoke anymore, i would not fab the oil sumps. Its a great idea. I really appreciate all your help John.

 

I just finished installing the water/alcohol injection last night. The car is running 7 psi max and the injection is set for activation at 4 psi. Its very smooth. LOVE IT.

david

 

David, what have you ended up with for fuel and timing control?

How powerfull does it feel? Dyno planned?

Congratulations on the effort

 

John,

First of all, THANK YOU for all your help and wisdom. To answer your question about fuel and timing. Currently, Fuel system is stock and untouch. Timing is untouch. The car seem to run fine. I was getting about 5 psi initially. I found a leakage last night and fit the problem and now i get 7 psi. Pushed my car to 7 psi last night. The water is set to activate at 4 psi.

I really think the water injection is keep the timing and fuel inline. I am still waiting for some Supra MKIII TT injectors (used for R&D, i am not sure if it will work or not). I have Walbro 255 L/H fuel pump and with Adjustable Fuel regulator at home.

Meanwhile the car seems to run fine and very strong at 3k and above. Heck, got my first kill few days ago with a Mustang GT.

I do have idle problem. I think its partially do to dirty injectors and or MAS.

 

Stock fuel and timing AND boost :eek: :eek: :eek:

Get to a wideband equiped dyno SOON!!!

7psi of good boost is at LEAST a 50% increase in power requiring a BUNCH more fuel. Cylinder pressure, especially at peak torque, is tempting detonation without a timing change.

If your boost reading is largely due to temperature rise... you may be getting away with this but I have NEVER heard of such a thing. Be careful, otherwise you may be needing that other engine soon :eek:

 

John, does the LS400 (90) have knock sensor? I the knock sensor will automatically retard or advance timing right?

 

Ok,

After few months of errors and trial, i finally re-do my TT system. The pipe is lobe from under the car with two 2" mendral bend tubes jointing right under the left side lower arm control and going up the intake. See pic

 

That is the new and improved right turbo. Noticed of 2" outlet pipe to the intake

 

Two turbo jointing into a 3" Y piple

 

Moving toward the intake

 

Front view of the horizontal 3" pipe. This area will help some intercooling.