91 LS timing belt
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91 LS timing belt
Sorry if this is repetitive. I just bought what I think is a steal of a car. A 91 LS w/ 112k. The timing belt is broke. Is there anything that I should look out for. I have seen a TB/Wp kit on ebay for $141. Is this all that I will need? Everything on the car works,has some rust on the left fender and the front bumper looks banged up but overall it is nice. I need wheels for it too. I would like to stick with stock, any suggestions on where to get a nice used or reman set? I would like to keep this as cheap as possible.
#4
The engine could be donezo
#5
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The engine wont be shot by the belt snapping but it could have some unknown problems. Do you know anything about it before the belt went? The T-belt kit on Ebay is probably nowhere near the parts you need. There is a Gates kit on rockauto for $181 that has belt, 2 idlers, tensioner, water pump. You will also need the crankshaft seal and 2 camshaft seals. Make sure you change the seals even if they're not leaking, it's only another 10 minutes of labor and well worth it.
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According to Toyota all 1uz engines are interferance. Thats why theres the whole set timing to 50 degrees ATDC and this disclaimer in the manual
NOTICE:
If the timing belt is disengaged, having the crankshaft
pulley at the wrong angle can cause the piston head and
valve head to come into contact with each other when you
remove the camshaft timing pulley (step 19), causing damage.
So always set the crankshaft pulley at the correct
angle.
However there pretty tought to blow up so you should be fine. just be sure to inspect everything in there and find out why the belt snapped. A locked water pump or tensioner are the most likely.
NOTICE:
If the timing belt is disengaged, having the crankshaft
pulley at the wrong angle can cause the piston head and
valve head to come into contact with each other when you
remove the camshaft timing pulley (step 19), causing damage.
So always set the crankshaft pulley at the correct
angle.
However there pretty tought to blow up so you should be fine. just be sure to inspect everything in there and find out why the belt snapped. A locked water pump or tensioner are the most likely.
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#8
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According to Toyota all 1uz engines are interferance. Thats why theres the whole set timing to 50 degrees ATDC and this disclaimer in the manual
NOTICE:
If the timing belt is disengaged, having the crankshaft
pulley at the wrong angle can cause the piston head and
valve head to come into contact with each other when you
remove the camshaft timing pulley (step 19), causing damage.
So always set the crankshaft pulley at the correct
angle.
However there pretty tought to blow up so you should be fine. just be sure to inspect everything in there and find out why the belt snapped. A locked water pump or tensioner are the most likely.
NOTICE:
If the timing belt is disengaged, having the crankshaft
pulley at the wrong angle can cause the piston head and
valve head to come into contact with each other when you
remove the camshaft timing pulley (step 19), causing damage.
So always set the crankshaft pulley at the correct
angle.
However there pretty tought to blow up so you should be fine. just be sure to inspect everything in there and find out why the belt snapped. A locked water pump or tensioner are the most likely.
It doesn't say anything like that in my manual for my 93, and actually for the T-belt job you don't have to remove the camshaft pulley, unless you're changing the camshaft seals which is only...recommended. The seals should be done b/c everything is already off but they are not included in the job, that's why you don't see it mentioned in the manual.
Please give the right information for the right years when commenting. This person has a 91.
#10
BahHumBug
iTrader: (10)
great, it's wrong.
1989-1994 LS400 ('95 SC400) 1uz-engines are NON-interference. in 1995 the LS400 ('96 for the SC) got a redesigned head and raised compression, making it interference, VVT-i 98+ 1UZs are all interference by design as well. this is not up for debate, this is pretty much accepted fact. no record exists of an early 1uz mucking up its valves/pistons from a snapped TB, and the FSM for early 1uz doesnt state any interference, whereas later 1UZ FSMs do state specifically of the interference risk.
1989-1994 LS400 ('95 SC400) 1uz-engines are NON-interference. in 1995 the LS400 ('96 for the SC) got a redesigned head and raised compression, making it interference, VVT-i 98+ 1UZs are all interference by design as well. this is not up for debate, this is pretty much accepted fact. no record exists of an early 1uz mucking up its valves/pistons from a snapped TB, and the FSM for early 1uz doesnt state any interference, whereas later 1UZ FSMs do state specifically of the interference risk.
#12
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If plan on keeping the car, ya need to make sure it's gonna run before thinking of fixing it up. Don't go with the cheapest T-belt kit, it's not worth it. Here's the DIY for the T-belt; http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/engine/timingbelt.html Like I said before, do the cam and crank seals at the same time. I didn't do mine and I needed to do the job again after 14K miles. Check out the rest of the lexls tutorials. Those are alot of the common repairs that will be needed eventually.
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Wanted to post a small update. I bought a complete Gates TB/WP kit. Great kit, have the car back together and runs strong. However do not use the WP gasket that comes with the kit--it's junk! Leaks, not alot but I will have to pull off the WP and use some RTV. I don't mind doing it, I rather enjoy working on this car but I hope that help people in the future.
#14
Pole Position
Glad ya got it done and running good but really sorry you need to pull it all apart again b/c of the WP. Don't feel too bad b/c **** happens and we've all done something like this in the past. As mentioned in the link I posted above, you're supposed to use high temperature gasket sealer. It's not the gasket that's junk, it's just no sealer. I use the gasket and sealer on both sides of it. (like in the link) When you put the sealer on it don't use too much b/c when it dries chunks can come off, get flowing with the coolant, and clog some passages. (Then you gotta hunt that down) Be careful with it. Did you change your cam and crank seals? If not, you should really do them this time when you take it apart, even if they're not leaking. Trust me on this one, you're not gonna want to do this job a 3rd time. Good luck on redoing the T-belt. At least this time it will be easier and faster.
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As for the ebay w/p and timing belt. my buddy got one of the "cheap" kits off ebay for his 93 sc400. All the parts were marked oem toyota parts sealed in plastic in toyota boxes. not too sure about all of the kits. Compared the kit after it arived to a part supplier (napa, lordco in bc here) and they were the exact same...
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