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Why don't you just use that hydraulic jack in the pic instead of a scissor jack?
Please comment on removing the camshaft pulley bolt, will this method work?Originally Posted by deanshark
You don't need to take out the camshaft in your 96 to change the seal, that started in 98. All ya need to do is take off the camshaft pulley bolt and take off the pulley (you don't need a pulley puller) then pry out the seal. I used a paint can opening tool, (whatever it's called) b/c it had a lip on it to get in and pry out. The bolt is on there very tight, you need to stop the pulley from spinning. I put a large screwdriver through the pulley and rested it against something, I forget where, but do NOT use the valve cover as leverage, it might crack. Check out youtube to see how people pull them out. It's easy.Why don't you just use that hydraulic jack in the pic instead of a scissor jack?
I plan to lock the crankshaft pulley with SCH64300 pulley holder. With timing belt still on, locking of crankshaft pulley will also hold the camshaft pulley in place while I remove the camshaft pulley bolt. The only thing I am worried about is whether the timing belt will be strong enough to hold the camshaft pulley while I remove the camshaft pulley bolt.
I am at this point.
The right cam timing mark is right at the line. It looks like it is one tooth over spin in the pic because of position of camera.
The right cam timing mark is right at the line. It looks like it is one tooth over spin in the pic because of position of camera.
For the crank pulley bolt I just jamb a big screwdriver in the flywheel to stop the engine from spinning while taking off the bolt, it's on tight. It takes a couple tries to get the screwdriver in the right spot so it doesn't fall out, but it's there. The cam pulleys, as I've said, I put a screwdriver through the spokes on the pulley to the engine to stop that from spinning. The belt will not stop the pulley from spinning while trying to take the bolt out, it's too much force, the belt will jump the teeth.
I haven't seen you mention it but do you know about setting the timing to about 50* after TDC before removing the belt? If not, read up on it. The reason for that is so if by any chance the pulley turns a bit while the belt is off the valve wont come in contact with the piston. I would hate to hear that something screwed up.
I haven't seen you mention it but do you know about setting the timing to about 50* after TDC before removing the belt? If not, read up on it. The reason for that is so if by any chance the pulley turns a bit while the belt is off the valve wont come in contact with the piston. I would hate to hear that something screwed up.
Remove the Cam bolts
So, I locked the Crankshaft pulley with SCH64300, used the electric impact wrench to loose the camshaft bolts. Per Dean's advice, don't pull the trigger too hard so the camshaft pulley won't jump the timing belt tooth.
So, I locked the Crankshaft pulley with SCH64300, used the electric impact wrench to loose the camshaft bolts. Per Dean's advice, don't pull the trigger too hard so the camshaft pulley won't jump the timing belt tooth.
Lexus Champion
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I haven't seen you mention it but do you know about setting the timing to about 50* after TDC before removing the belt? If not, read up on it. The reason for that is so if by any chance the pulley turns a bit while the belt is off the valve wont come in contact with the piston. I would hate to hear that something screwed up.
DEAN, I thought the 50 degree thing was for 98 and up, not his engine, and we didnt use it on any of the 5 we have done... please check us out on this. bpOriginally Posted by deanshark
For the crank pulley bolt I just jamb a big screwdriver in the flywheel to stop the engine from spinning while taking off the bolt, it's on tight. It takes a couple tries to get the screwdriver in the right spot so it doesn't fall out, but it's there. The cam pulleys, as I've said, I put a screwdriver through the spokes on the pulley to the engine to stop that from spinning. The belt will not stop the pulley from spinning while trying to take the bolt out, it's too much force, the belt will jump the teeth. I haven't seen you mention it but do you know about setting the timing to about 50* after TDC before removing the belt? If not, read up on it. The reason for that is so if by any chance the pulley turns a bit while the belt is off the valve wont come in contact with the piston. I would hate to hear that something screwed up.
Damn, how much did you pay for that? Thing looks like it worked pretty good, but I'll still stick with the ol' screwdriver in the flywheel. I've never heard of anyone ever buying one. Also I've never seen one like that, just the one they show in the manual. Did that also work on the cam bolts?
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I always thought it was for the 98 and up until I started reading more on the 95-97 this past week or so b/c of "dashan" and "deanbrown3" both doing the T-belt on thier 96s. Idk why the 50* ATDC is on the 98+ but from what I've been reading it says to put it 50* ATDC on the 95-97 so incase the pulleys move the valve and piston don't touch. Originally Posted by billydpowe
DEAN, I thought the 50 degree thing was for 98 and up, not his engine, and we didnt use it on any of the 5 we have done... please check us out on this. bp
This is from another thread; "The reason for the 50* turn (according to the Toyota manual) is to make sure the pistons/cams aren't in danger of touching each other."
It doesn't have to be at 50* ATDC if you know for sure that the pulleys aren't gonna move. Then you can just set all 3 marks to where they're supposed to be normaly, but I'm pretty sure this is the first for both of them.
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I paid about $70 for the SCH64300. It took less than 5 minutes from setting up to getting the bolt out. I can get the C bolt out in less than 2 minutes if I do it again. I am considering a rental program in the clublexus forum so each member will only pay for the shipping and can use the tool.Originally Posted by deanshark
Damn, how much did you pay for that? Thing looks like it worked pretty good, but I'll still stick with the ol' screwdriver in the flywheel. I've never heard of anyone ever buying one. Also I've never seen one like that, just the one they show in the manual. Did that also work on the cam bolts?
I have one question:
The RH side timing belt idler pulley, which I need to use a 10mm hex Allen key to remove. Is it normally threaded (counter clockwise for loose)? or Is it reversely threaded?
Thanks
My answer: normal thread.
The RH side timing belt idler pulley, which I need to use a 10mm hex Allen key to remove. Is it normally threaded (counter clockwise for loose)? or Is it reversely threaded?
Thanks
My answer: normal thread.
