Okay so I was browsing the forums recently and I had the nerves to change my ECT sensor. Now that is out of the way and changed my heating inside the car doesn't work anymore it's just blowing air at me now. With it being winter and all I would love to have heating when its like 10 degrees out.

Any ideas on what the problem could be. I did not touch anything else on the car besides the ECT sensor and the stuff in the way that I need to get to the sensor itself.

 

i gave you an answer to this in the other thread...
you have an air bubble in the cooling system and need to fill it properly and burp the system.

 

I did that already, Engine isn't over heating anymore and all air bubbles are gone. I even brought it to my mech. to check and they flushed it out for me for free.

 

If ya still don't have heat ya still have air in it somewhere. When you took the ECT off you let air in. Try taking it out on the highway, run it at high RPMs with the heat all the way on max for about 10 minutes and then bleed the air out. You should be set after that.

 

lol if your heater isnt blowing hot air but only outside temp air then you still dont have enough coolant in the system or a bubble in the system.

did your "genius" mechanic bleed the system out from the filler hole on the throttle body and remember to run the car past ops temp while doing so with the heater on full blast?

 

Sorry If it seems I am doubting you PureDrifter, lol. Apparently there was too much coolant after he flushed it so that it just sat in the reservoir rather than it running through the engine towards the radiator and some other parts of the engine. Now the level is right between low and full where it should be.

 

LOL That's a good one. LOL Is that what your "mechanic" told you? It can't be over full, that's what the overflow tube is for. The ONLY way the coolant would just sit in the resevoir and not go through the engine is if the T-stat is stuck closed or the water pump is seized up. Another thing, why would a mechanic do a "coolant flush" for free? That's alot of time and cost of coolant to just give away. I think that's just what he told you and he finally bled the system the right way. I'd watch out for him if I was you.
So, is your heat working after ya finally got the air out?

 

Yes it is, and this was my usual mechanic since it was a Sunday. FYI never going back to the one I went to Sunday. But yea the heater works now and just on time.

 

what made it work?, pure drifter right? we have to post answers so when we search we get answers not just opened threads with no finish just a got it working answer......

 

Wow! a simple air bubble will stop it from working? I am a mechanic and thought it would be the heater control valve or clogged heater core. Good to know.

 

Sorry, PureDrifter made it work.

 

Where exactly do you bleed the air and where exactly is the vacuum line to the heater box through the firewall?. I dont see a radiator cap on my LS 400, though my wife often accuses me of being blind. I have been freezing my tail off the last three weeks on a two hour commute each way and it has been very, very cold in CT. thanks

 

Come on, 10*- 15* isn't too bad here in Ct. I just did my timing belt in this weather. (even with the 3 feet of snow) The cap is on the coolant resevoir, not the radiator. The best place to bleed the coolant is the 17mm bolt on top of the thermostat housing. It's the highest spot on the engine, I sometimes face it uphill just to give it a little more height. I feel for ya not having heat. I went all last winter with none due to a clogged heater core. (fixed) My seats don't work either. BRRrrrrr.

 

thanks, my driver seat wont go back and I don't have heated seats either, having bought the car in Atlanta. I will try and find the bolt, front of the engine? And my moon roof leaks when it rains and I don't even use it, ever, but my wife likes it a lot, not fun in traffic, but when moving it isnt so bad. Appreciate the help very much. working my way through it. hiow much do heater cores go for?

 

The heater core is NOT a job ya want to do without the service manual to point out what has to come out, and in what order. I paid $50 for mine from the junk yard but it was a 4 day job changing it. But I got heat now. The bleeder bolt is front and center, top of engine.