My solution to dead door lock actuator
#1
My solution to dead door lock actuator
Got a set of 4 aftermarket units for about $10 on ebay. I didn't want to get a used oem for $70 or so to risk getting a bad unit. There was no tutorial for LS400 so it took about 2 hours total. If you're on a budget this is a great way to do it. I'm guessing intallation is similar for other models.
The aftermarket actuator:
Take off the inner panel then carefully peel the plastic lining if you want to reuse it. Then unplug the bigger harness on bottom corner then you need to test which wire is used to unlock and lock. I found that middle top is used to lock and middle bottom for unlock. You can test this by using a continuity testor and using the lock/unlock button to see which ones light up.
Once I found which wire were used I confirmed this by plugging in two wires from new units to see how it responds when lock/unlock button is pressed.
I used T-tap connector here but you can solder or do what ever you want. T-tap connector I had were cheap, the grooves were not sharp enough to penetrate the rubber so I had to get a razor blade and cut the wires slightly before securing it with t-tap connector. Harness was then replugged..
Unit bolted to door. I rolled down the window to make sure nothing is hitting anything
Then I bent the metal wire to go around protruding parts on the inner door... This is how it looks like.
Plastic lining covered was reinstalled.
Then I put the inner panel back and tested the actuator but I noticed it was rubbing against something and I found the foam padding was hitting the actuator so I cut most of it out. Then voila it works like new again and I can lock/unlock using key remote.
If anyone would like to add anything to this feel free to do so.
The aftermarket actuator:
Take off the inner panel then carefully peel the plastic lining if you want to reuse it. Then unplug the bigger harness on bottom corner then you need to test which wire is used to unlock and lock. I found that middle top is used to lock and middle bottom for unlock. You can test this by using a continuity testor and using the lock/unlock button to see which ones light up.
Once I found which wire were used I confirmed this by plugging in two wires from new units to see how it responds when lock/unlock button is pressed.
I used T-tap connector here but you can solder or do what ever you want. T-tap connector I had were cheap, the grooves were not sharp enough to penetrate the rubber so I had to get a razor blade and cut the wires slightly before securing it with t-tap connector. Harness was then replugged..
Unit bolted to door. I rolled down the window to make sure nothing is hitting anything
Then I bent the metal wire to go around protruding parts on the inner door... This is how it looks like.
Plastic lining covered was reinstalled.
Then I put the inner panel back and tested the actuator but I noticed it was rubbing against something and I found the foam padding was hitting the actuator so I cut most of it out. Then voila it works like new again and I can lock/unlock using key remote.
If anyone would like to add anything to this feel free to do so.
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