Torque Crankshaft Pulley Bolt @ 181ft/lbs
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Torque Crankshaft Pulley Bolt @ 181ft/lbs
Do any of you guys have a trick to tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt, without using the "Toyota Special Tool" that holds the crankshaft pulley? I am in the final assembly stages of timing belt and water pump replacement.
THANKS GUYS!
THANKS GUYS!
#3
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Or do what I did with my old Cressida. I grabbed a length of of clean rope and fed it through a spark plug hole until there was enough to prevent the piston from fully compressing.
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Just tried the two Autozones, one Kragen/OReilly, and a Pep Boys, all South OC, CA. Not a single one of them has one.
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#8
Pole Position
Take off the flywheel cover and either have someone, with muscles, hold the flywheel from moving with a LARGE screwdriver or prybar in the teeth. If you don't have a partner, you can jam the LARGE srcewdriver/prybar into the flywheel and tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt. I've been doing it this way for almost 30 years without a problem.
#10
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Would you be able to put the car into <D>, chock the wheels and torque it?
This made me curious so a quick search yielding this similar discussion:
http://www.sunbeamalpine.org/forum/a...hp?t-7709.html
Very interesting...but read the thread as these are just highlights posted.
This made me curious so a quick search yielding this similar discussion:
http://www.sunbeamalpine.org/forum/a...hp?t-7709.html
Very interesting...but read the thread as these are just highlights posted.
RootesRacer
If you do the rope trick right it will work everytime.First of all the piston has to be down or you can not even feed the line into the combustion chamber. Feed as much line as you can and then turn the motor with the crank bolt.The line will stop the piston.Now tighten your bolt,back up the engine and you are done.Simple one man job.Surely someone else who has turned a wrench has done this.I did not invent this method.It was taught to me somewhere done the line. I knew I would hear from the best of the best.I'm not telling anyone what to do.I'm just telling everyone I did it and it worked everytime.
I'm waiting for some reponse on the grease gun trick for freeing up frozen engines....I choose grease over gunpower.
With the grease trick the piston should be UP.That's all the geometry you need to Know.
Comments?.......
Respectfully yours,
Al Mason
Al,
You are not getting it.
The force on the rod is related to the vertical vector, which is dependant on the crank angle of the rod when the piston locks.
Even with the crank throws at 90 degrees, your 100 lb/ft of torque is greater at the piston since the rods are NOT infinitely long. As the rod to piston angle (theta) approaches zero degrees, the force approaches infinity (tangent of theta).
If you do the rope trick right it will work everytime.First of all the piston has to be down or you can not even feed the line into the combustion chamber. Feed as much line as you can and then turn the motor with the crank bolt.The line will stop the piston.Now tighten your bolt,back up the engine and you are done.Simple one man job.Surely someone else who has turned a wrench has done this.I did not invent this method.It was taught to me somewhere done the line. I knew I would hear from the best of the best.I'm not telling anyone what to do.I'm just telling everyone I did it and it worked everytime.
I'm waiting for some reponse on the grease gun trick for freeing up frozen engines....I choose grease over gunpower.
With the grease trick the piston should be UP.That's all the geometry you need to Know.
Comments?.......
Respectfully yours,
Al Mason
Al,
You are not getting it.
The force on the rod is related to the vertical vector, which is dependant on the crank angle of the rod when the piston locks.
Even with the crank throws at 90 degrees, your 100 lb/ft of torque is greater at the piston since the rods are NOT infinitely long. As the rod to piston angle (theta) approaches zero degrees, the force approaches infinity (tangent of theta).
To Rootes Racer,
I get it now-You got an A in geometry but cannot understand the clothesline because it's not in the book.I'm impressed how you said so much and at the same time said nothing.
You obviviously are no dummy like me so why not put your high intellect to work and think about a clothes line filling up a spark plug hole instead of trying to baffle us by over-explaining the guts of an engine..The rope trick does WORK even if it is too simple for some to comprehend.
Oh well I guess I'll never get it.....
Thank you very much,
Agm
ps
Has anyone ever lit a fire on top of a cold frozen flooded Alpine carb? I have.It gives new definition to 'fire in the hole' and will fire up any cold engine and is more impressive than the rope trick......
I want to thank Chuck in Canada for the kind words.We are not related.
Thanks Chuck!!Now thats funny!!!!
Al,
I quit the argument becuase you aren't getting it, and my time is more valuable than your rod bearings.
You want an explanation, here it is.
The force on the rods pins and bearings is proportional to the vector of the crank angle due to its leverage as acted on by the crank. This is easy, perhaps even you got this.
The force on said components exponentially increases as the piston gets nearer TDC.
The rod bearings are what takes that force when the piston begins to lock.
The ugly part is that as the force is rising while the crank is still rotating (due to the spring rate of the compressing rope), makes a nice dent in the white metal on the bottom shell.
Someone caclulated (I'll trust the math) that the force was 1140 lbs with the crank at 60 degrees and 100 lbs ft of torque aplied to the crank snout.
No I ask you, can you imagine the effect on the softmetal bearings with that amount of load on them, while rotating that last couple of degrees, all without the benefit of the hydrodynamic lubrication the engine sees when it has oil pressure?
Now imagine what the force and consequent damage of the shells will be with the clothesline inserted where you didnt pack the cylinder half full of rope before it locked up (where the crank angle was less than 60 degrees).
I myself have had many engines apart, Ive seen what happens to bearings when the motor is locked and you try to turn it anyway (like if a timing belt breaks, or if the cyls have oil/water or fuel loaded in them).
Anyhow Al, this is all probably wasted on you. I never said that your procedure wouldnt tighten down the crank bolt, what I said was that it was stupid and you will damage your rods and bearings.
Why on earth you would want to damage your bearings for lack of an impact wrench just blows my mind.
Was that saying enough this time sir?
I get it now-You got an A in geometry but cannot understand the clothesline because it's not in the book.I'm impressed how you said so much and at the same time said nothing.
You obviviously are no dummy like me so why not put your high intellect to work and think about a clothes line filling up a spark plug hole instead of trying to baffle us by over-explaining the guts of an engine..The rope trick does WORK even if it is too simple for some to comprehend.
Oh well I guess I'll never get it.....
Thank you very much,
Agm
ps
Has anyone ever lit a fire on top of a cold frozen flooded Alpine carb? I have.It gives new definition to 'fire in the hole' and will fire up any cold engine and is more impressive than the rope trick......
I want to thank Chuck in Canada for the kind words.We are not related.
Thanks Chuck!!Now thats funny!!!!
Al,
I quit the argument becuase you aren't getting it, and my time is more valuable than your rod bearings.
You want an explanation, here it is.
The force on the rods pins and bearings is proportional to the vector of the crank angle due to its leverage as acted on by the crank. This is easy, perhaps even you got this.
The force on said components exponentially increases as the piston gets nearer TDC.
The rod bearings are what takes that force when the piston begins to lock.
The ugly part is that as the force is rising while the crank is still rotating (due to the spring rate of the compressing rope), makes a nice dent in the white metal on the bottom shell.
Someone caclulated (I'll trust the math) that the force was 1140 lbs with the crank at 60 degrees and 100 lbs ft of torque aplied to the crank snout.
No I ask you, can you imagine the effect on the softmetal bearings with that amount of load on them, while rotating that last couple of degrees, all without the benefit of the hydrodynamic lubrication the engine sees when it has oil pressure?
Now imagine what the force and consequent damage of the shells will be with the clothesline inserted where you didnt pack the cylinder half full of rope before it locked up (where the crank angle was less than 60 degrees).
I myself have had many engines apart, Ive seen what happens to bearings when the motor is locked and you try to turn it anyway (like if a timing belt breaks, or if the cyls have oil/water or fuel loaded in them).
Anyhow Al, this is all probably wasted on you. I never said that your procedure wouldnt tighten down the crank bolt, what I said was that it was stupid and you will damage your rods and bearings.
Why on earth you would want to damage your bearings for lack of an impact wrench just blows my mind.
Was that saying enough this time sir?
#12
#14
Instructor
Just use a big impact gun, I haven't had to do any of those tricks except for on a 98' Subaru, I laid my 1/2" breaker bar on the frame, while I cranked the motor, worked like a charm. The rope trick is an old school way of doing it and has never seemed to fail.
#15
Thank you, ill probably be back for more help. But you know how the pulley needs to be lined up at the 0. What if its slightly off? like just a little when i go 2 lossen the bolt. Would i still be alright?
Last edited by 1uzfe4147; 10-10-10 at 09:12 AM.