Tie Rod Inner Replacement
Or, you could use the correct tool, which would make it alot easier.
You could rent this one; http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...-Tool/_/N-264v
Or by using this one ya don't have to take off the outer tierod first; http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...ier=94645_0_0_
You could rent this one; http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...-Tool/_/N-264v
Or by using this one ya don't have to take off the outer tierod first; http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...ier=94645_0_0_
Or, you could use the correct tool, which would make it alot easier.
You could rent this one; http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...-Tool/_/N-264v
Or by using this one ya don't have to take off the outer tierod first; http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...ier=94645_0_0_
You could rent this one; http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...-Tool/_/N-264v
Or by using this one ya don't have to take off the outer tierod first; http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...ier=94645_0_0_
This made a nice snug fit on the flats of the inner tie rod and together with a wrench on the rack rod I was able to loosen it fairly easily. All told, it took about 15 minutes to fabricate the makeshift wrench, less time than it would have taken to run to the store to get a wrench to grind down.
I wasn't sure if he meant a regular pipe wrench, because I'd think it would be too wide. The previous posters showed that they had to use a very narrow wrench to fit the RH side.
Last edited by 91LS400vgb; Jun 29, 2012 at 06:56 PM. Reason: typo
I had to remove the right side inner tie rod today to replace the steering rack boot. The suggestion of grinding a wrench to fit made me think of an alternate approach. I made an improvised wrench using a scrap piece of 1/4x2" bar stock about 12 inches long. I roughed out an opening slightly under 1.250" wide and 1" deep and then milled it out to 1.280" wide. (If you don't have a milling machine, you could rough it out and then file or grind it to fit.)
This made a nice snug fit on the flats of the inner tie rod and together with a wrench on the rack rod I was able to loosen it fairly easily. All told, it took about 15 minutes to fabricate the makeshift wrench, less time than it would have taken to run to the store to get a wrench to grind down.
This made a nice snug fit on the flats of the inner tie rod and together with a wrench on the rack rod I was able to loosen it fairly easily. All told, it took about 15 minutes to fabricate the makeshift wrench, less time than it would have taken to run to the store to get a wrench to grind down.
After removing the boot and using a cold chisel to unbend the tab washer, I tried to remove the inner tie rod.
My 36 inch pipe wrench didn't give me enough room to get a grip on the inner tie rod. I tried Autozone, but they didn't have either the primary or secondary tool to remove it either. I couldn't get enough torque on it to break it loose with channel locks or vise grips.
I put the vise grips on really tight and used my jack to break the tie rod loose. Pics attached.
This is the Tab Washer after I unbent it.

I used a hammer and cold chisel to unbend the washer.

I used vise grips and a jack to break the tie rod loose.

Close up of where I put the vise grips. They're on the body of the tie rod.
My 36 inch pipe wrench didn't give me enough room to get a grip on the inner tie rod. I tried Autozone, but they didn't have either the primary or secondary tool to remove it either. I couldn't get enough torque on it to break it loose with channel locks or vise grips.
I put the vise grips on really tight and used my jack to break the tie rod loose. Pics attached.
This is the Tab Washer after I unbent it.

I used a hammer and cold chisel to unbend the washer.

I used vise grips and a jack to break the tie rod loose.

Close up of where I put the vise grips. They're on the body of the tie rod.









