No power steering at idle
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No power steering at idle
I have a 95 LS400 with 175K miles bought recently. From the beginning the steering seems very light and did not tighten up at higher speeds. Drove it 2K miles after purchase and it seems OK. Brought it to a local shop this weekend to replace the air control valve (at bottom of power steering pump) since it was leaking, also had him clean the solenoid in the rack. After working for a few miles, the power steering now provides very little power assist at idle. At higher speeds, the power steering gets much better. If you look at the fluid in the power steering resevoir, the fluid is not flowing at idle (as it did before). If you increase the engine RPM, then the fluid starts flowing again. The local shop recommends to replace the power steering pump. He quoted $625 for the job (a remanufactured pump and labor). The local shop seems honest and competent but they don't handle much toyota/lexus work, they are honda/acura specialists. Have a few questions before plunking down significant $$$:
1) Seems too much of a coincidence that the power steering pump died after work was done on the power steering system. Could they have made some mistakes during the air control valve replacement work ?
2) Does the power steering pump replacement recommendation sounds right ?
3) Any recommendation for mechanics in the Orlando FL area that has more toyota/lexus experience and that you trust ?
4) Should I go with a rebuild pump or an OEM pump (cost difference is about $270). I'm leaning towards the OEM since the original lasted 175K miles.
Thanks.
1) Seems too much of a coincidence that the power steering pump died after work was done on the power steering system. Could they have made some mistakes during the air control valve replacement work ?
2) Does the power steering pump replacement recommendation sounds right ?
3) Any recommendation for mechanics in the Orlando FL area that has more toyota/lexus experience and that you trust ?
4) Should I go with a rebuild pump or an OEM pump (cost difference is about $270). I'm leaning towards the OEM since the original lasted 175K miles.
Thanks.
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Checked the electrical connector to the solenoid and it is connected. There are also chisel marks on the nut so he did remove the solenoid to clean it.
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