My 91 LS is leaking oil, so I took it to my mechanic, he told me that there's a ruber part which has been worn out. So he has to take my transmission out and reploace the rubber part. The job will take a cople of days and it'll cost me $700 with part & labor. Can anyone please help me??




Thank You.

 

Id lool around first thats alot of money for a rubber piece,I got my tune up for all most that much.

 

my tune up cost me around 600 with 2 new Michelin tires but what does a tune up have to do with leaking oil?

 

Help yourself and prevent being raped by find where the leakage is from! DIY is even better.

Hint: Oil seals

As a general rule, parts required to fix oil leaks are usually cheap, but labor cost to replace the part is not. :eek:

BTW, what is the mileage on your car?

 

I have a 91 also, bought 2 years ago.
At 99,000 miles , the rear main seal had to be
replaced. You'll see a oil drip at where the engine
block meets the tranny.

The seal goes around the crank shaft, that drives
tranny in turn driving the rear wheels.
It keeps the motor oil seperated from the tansmission
fluids. Thus when it is finally worn, it leaks out motor oil.

I had mine done at a local shop for about $400, the seal is only about $30-40. The transmisson has to be removed to install the seal. Make sure they use only Toyota Type 4 Transmission Fluid to refill the tranny, DO NOT use any other brand. Good advice.

 

hyper, I have around 104,000

Mlevk, I have that same problem as you did, exactly the way you said it, my dad took the car to his friend, so I'm stuck with a 2003 Avalon,anyways,he said he'll do the job for $50-$100, and it might take a couple of hours, and my other mechanic was gonna charge me around $700.....

 

My 91 LS-400 with 110,000 had the same problem with the rear engine main seal leaking. I paid 600.00 to have it replaced. The transmission has to be removed which is most of the cost. When I later changed the timing belt, I had the front main seal, along with both cam seals replaced. They are all exposed when changing the belt, so might as well do all the seals. The cost was not much extra.

Pilot

 

The seal is about $40, my shop charged my $200 for the tranny to out and in. I paid $240 for the job

 

I got it fixed for $150, but not my A/C Clutch is messed up and it might cost me around $300 a couple of years ago I had my A/C compressor fixed, you guys think it might be that again?

 

My ac light on the display unit is also flashing and it cuts off after the ac runs for about 10sec.When the compressor is inactive the light flashes.
What was your symptom of your bad clutch on the compressor?

 

my A/C light does that also and because my new mechanic said so.

 

So did you guys actually see any oil on the ground where the car was parked? Because I see some oil on the floor in my garage where it's usually parked, but I'm not sure weather the oil is from the pan (engine) or if it comes from the Power Steering pump (rack&pinion). How would you determine that? If I were to bend down and look underneath my car, where would I have to look at to know weather it's from the pan or it's from the Power steering system? I really appreciate your response,

 

You need to wash off the lower engine, transmission, and steering gear. I use a water based product called "Simple Green" which you can purchase at Wal-Mart. I buy the full strength stuff, not the pre-mix. I then put in a spray bottle with about 2/3 full strength Simple Green, and 1/3 water. This is much stronger than the premix stuff sitting right next to the full strength bottle. I then lay down and reach under the car, from the front and both sides as far as I can reach. Then spray the entire bottle on everything you can reach. Now let it sit for about 10 to 15 minutes, before washing with a garden hose with a spray nozzle set to max pressure, (full stream) to wash off the oil, and grease. I do this after each oil change to keep the underside of my engine, transmission etc all very clean. When I change oil, I can see if and where there is any leaks etc.
Another method which is a little more risky and stinky, but offers immediate results. This is to mix a large spray bottle with half Simple Green, and half gasoline. You have to shake up the bottle every few seconds to keep it mixed up, as the gasoline wants to separate from the water based Simple Green cleaner. I use this for any cars that might have extra caked on grease, or have not been washed since new etc. I used the garden hose after letting it sit for a few minutes.
This will clean very fast down to the bare metal, and needs 2 applications. Another way would be to get some professional solvent in a spray bottle or pump up spray container, and apply in he same fashion. When I first bought my 91 Lexus, and discovered the dripping oil, I used the stronger method, with 2 applications. The underside was clean as new, and I could clearly see the oil was coming from the rear engine seal where the transmission mates up to the engine. I had to drive the car about 30 miles after cleaning to see the oil drip. The Lexus mechanic who pulled the transmission to replace the rear engine seal, told me he had never seen the underside of a Lexus this clean, and asked me how I did this. When I told him, he was shocked. Now for a disclaimer: Never use any flammable product when the engine is hot, or around any electric equipment, extention cord or any place near the potential of a spark etc. Also you should protect the environment, so only consider this method where proper draining can be utilized. The water based Simple Green alone should do the trick, but might need several applications. I wanted it clean NOW! So used a method I knew would work immediately.

Pilot
91 LS400
01 RX300

 

pilot, thanks for the response, I think I really don't need to do all this anymore; because I was actually able to see where the oil was droping from (not where the hole was). I'm not very good with the car terms here, but I'm going to give you the best description I can: I think I know where the oil pan is (directly underneath the engine). Right behind that, there is an extended metal that sort of runs from the right side of the car to the left (it's a one piece metal). The oil drips from the this metal to the floor; of course the metal couldn't have any oil in it, so the oil drops on the metal, slides down and drops down on the floor. I hope you know what I'm talking about. If you need to ask me more questions to get a better picture, please do so.
Thank you very much.

 

Hello ~
Well back @ 104,000-105,000 I went Over to Mobil 1 5W-30 and well it seemed to be A OK, untill I returned back from vacation. As soon as I got into my car (after sitting for 2 1/2 weeks) I noticed a large oil spot on my gargae floor. Sure enough it was my Rear Main Seal. Sure I Have no proof that it was fully the Mobil 1 at fault but I have become quite weary of it on older models (I have 109,000 miles). After seeing this I rushed out and put in Valvoline's MaxLife 5W-30 in it is supposed to swell the seals back up??. So 375-400 miles later I still have the leak (slowing it seems) but it seems to still be the Mobil 1 comming out (or at least mixed) ?!? It has a pronounced smell (at least compared to the MaxLife). So that Is my story
Paul