LS400 Rotors
Feedback appreciated.
Last edited by jcfavela; Apr 18, 2008 at 08:03 AM.
If you go OEM, make sure you have OEM pads, if you go with let's say Raybestos, make sure you get Raybestos pads.
I've heard people have lots of problems with mismatched pads/rotors
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Rotors/pads work on friction and most importantly... heat. So the HIGHER the rotors capacity to withstand heat (without warping, a factor of pads made with heat resistant material I.E. Ceramics, Kevlar & Carbon Fiber. The shorter & quicker it will stop you. Also rotors are now available that are Cryogenically treated that can withstand enormous heat/force without warping while outlasting identical rotors.
Brakes are something you never want to skimp on. Buy the best VALUE you can.
Whats next mismatched Tires?
Last edited by GRAND_LS 4; Apr 21, 2008 at 10:00 PM.
Rotors/pads work on friction and most importantly... heat. So the HIGHER the rotors capacity to withstand heat (without warping, a factor of pads made with heat resistant material I.E. Ceramics, Kevlar & Carbon Fiber. The shorter & quicker it will stop you. Also rotors are now available that are Cryogenically treated that can withstand enormous heat/force without warping while outlasting identical rotors.
Brakes are something you never want to skimp on. Buy the best VALUE you can.
or perhaps you didnt actually READ what i had responded to......
since when was brembo "cheap"? oh yea, and the ability of a rotor to dissipate heat has nothing to do with its ACTUAL stopping power, with a given mass, thickness, diameter, and composition rotors will cool and stop equally, when you start adding slots and cross drilling you increase the rotor's resistance to BRAKE FADE (which is different from brake bite), in fact, given the same above characteristics, slotted and/or drilled rotors actually have LESS surface area and therefore will minorly DECREASE the actual stopping distance (but as the area taken away is relatively small the actual impact isnt that big). cryogenic rotors as you tout do not actually have any PROVEN (mathematically or in practice) benefits in resistance to warpage.
the fact that you assume warpage is actually the metal of the rotor WARPING shows how little you know about brakes in general. the term "warped brakes" is a misnomer, the reason brakes "wobble" is because pad deposits glaze onto the surface of the pads.
Last edited by GRAND_LS 4; Apr 21, 2008 at 10:01 PM.
Last edited by GRAND_LS 4; Apr 21, 2008 at 10:02 PM.
Different companies use different materials to produce pads and rotors. So lets say a cheap NAPA special rotor is put on an LS with high-end OEM ceramic pads... rotors will much more easily warp.
I also say this from first hand experience on past vehicles and my current LS. The gentleman I purchased it from had replaced the front rotors but not the pads from a local Les Schwab. When I picked it up, there was a slight wobble when I applied the brakes. I had the rotors turned and it went away. A few days later the rotors developed a slight warp again. I had the front brakes replaced at my local Les Schwab so the pads would match the rotors.. And what do you know! THE ROTORS HAVE NEVER WARPED AGAIN. With +2k miles on them, and a few high-speed, heavy braking situations.
Different people have different experiences and opinions. It's a fact of life.
Last edited by GRAND_LS 4; Apr 21, 2008 at 10:11 PM.
OE confines, whats the best shoice for rotors and pads? Beck Arnley? Perhaps the Brembos exceed OE? Anybody know where they are made and any experience with them?
Also, maybe some confusion in the thread. Rotors should be changed in no less then pairs (front or back) and likewise pads should be changed in no less then sets (front or back). Not having tried aftermarket performance sets, not sure it would be a good idea to put a crappy set of pads on a performance rotor. Just my .02
I have read AND heard of MANY people on here, LOC, and locally talk about non-stop warping of the rotors and excessive pad wear when they would JUST buy pads, or JUST install new rotors and have mismatched products.
Different companies use different materials to produce pads and rotors. So lets say a cheap NAPA special rotor is put on an LS with high-end OEM ceramic pads... rotors will much more easily warp.
I also say this from first hand experience on past vehicles and my current LS. The gentleman I purchased it from had replaced the front rotors but not the pads from a local Les Schwab. When I picked it up, there was a slight wobble when I applied the brakes. I had the rotors turned and it went away. A few days later the rotors developed a slight warp again. I had the front brakes replaced at my local Les Schwab so the pads would match the rotors.. And what do you know! THE ROTORS HAVE NEVER WARPED AGAIN. With +2k miles on them, and a few high-speed, heavy braking situations.
Please show some respect before just throwing away people's advice. Different people have different experiences and opinions. It's a fact of life.
i asked for concrete, veritable evidence when you claimed that a certain rule should be followed, 1-2 isolated accounts dont mean much to me.
you say that you had the rotors turned and the wobble came back, did you put in new pads at the same time? because if you'd looked at the links i had posted you'd know the correlation between pads and "warped" rotors.
you didn't state that both rotors and pads should be replaced at the same time, which is perfectly true, you specifically stated that they should be of the same manufacturer (oem-oem pads, raybestos-raybestos pads). again, i put the Brembo example to you.
Last edited by GRAND_LS 4; Apr 21, 2008 at 10:09 PM.









