tbilisi79

I am still not happy with the front end of the car. I changed the Strut bars and it helped a lot. But still I get some road harshness over the bumps.

Struts are good, as the car doesnt float or bounce around. But could the strut mount mushing be bad?

Or is it the lower or upper control arm? Which one is a more obvious one? I tried looking for wheel play, but I have none.
Old strut bars looked ok and had no play either, but apparently shaking the wheel with your hands wount tell you much unless the ball joints are about to fall off.

I am trying to think, which arm, upper or lower has more stress on daily basis.

Please advise, as I want to tighten up the front end a bit more and enjoy the car the way it was meant to be.

Thanks!!

steveski

I hear you about wanting to improve the feel, etc. Basically when my UCA's were bad it caused the car to wander on the highway a little. It didn't track straight. It was not significant but they needed to be replaced. I bought them from Carson and they took less than an hour to change myself.

I too got the clunk and had my lower ball joints changed - fixed the clunk and cost me a set of front tires. The suspension shop strut masters tried to tell me it was my strut mount. Correct me if I am wrong but if the strut mount is worn it won't clunk but rather you could hear metal on metal (lack of rubber for the spring to seat itself on).

I don't have my manual with me but if turn the wheel in neutral (engine off) the wheel should not turn more than I think it is 1.5-2.0". This is more for steering bushings, tie rod ends, etc.

If you have more than 100k miles and the lower ball joints have never been replaced they could be causing you vibration, clunking type sounds and possibly irregular tire wear though (at least idt did on mine). Also it should be said that the shop checked the normal way (jacking the car up and trying to wobble the tire/wheel side to side and up and down) and found nothing. When they disassembled the lower assembly the ball joint fell apart - really loose.

tbilisi79

Thanks dude.

I suspect the ball joints myself. Is it worth changing the whole control arm?? New it comes with the ball joint?
OR should I just change the ball joints?? Lower? Upper? Do they sell them separate?? And if so? Where? How much???

I noticed that the inner side of the front tires is worn out more, but that could have been from the work out strut bars.

I did alignment twice since then and the wheel is slightly to the right, going straight. I cannt say the car wonders a lot, but then again its a lexus not BMW so I cannt tell. Just lots of harsh, metalic sounds over the bumps. 112k miles.

Neofate

iTrader: (1)

If you can install the joints -- Just get the ball joints. Saves you money -- Check out sewell or carson.. they will have them. The arms are going to remain the same, its always the point of friction that causes the problems.

This is the same with all suspension parts, only the wear and tear components really need to be changed, aside from springs and shocks.

tbilisi79

I dont see the Ball joints on Carson web site.
But I do see the lower Control arm bushing. I think I will change the bushing and the ball joint first and see how it does, and if that doesnt kill all the noise, then I will go with the Uppers as well.

I will call Carson for Ball Joint prices.

I cannt wait to do this, will post when I get this done.
THanks!!!

Neofate

iTrader: (1)

Carson treats you right, tell them your from Clublexus and were referred by us. Phone will get you a long way -- With the right service and a good price.


Maybe make a DIY when you do this, (if doing it yourself) -- I'd like to see pictures and a DIY of such replacement. Because I need to do the whole front suspension on my 94.

McSwine

Please let us know if ball joints fixes your clunk...I have the same thing and it's driving me nuts. If not for the clunk, my car would be perfect.

steveski

Carson will sell OE Lexus lower ball joints and upper CA's. I don't recall what I paid but the price was just over aftermarket prices. The upper CA must be replaced whole as the ball joint is not serviceable though.

So you know when my lower ball joint was replaced my clunking was gone. I did not know strut bars could cause inner tire wear though.

stuching

Mine got a clunk on the front right side. I changed UCAs and lower balljoints. It didn't fix the clunk but it handle much better though.

steveski

Others say the clunk is the lower strut bar which I never changed - My clunk is gone and has not returned. Have you changed th elower strut bar or bushings? I say if you did and you still have the clunk there isn't much else to change other than the strut mount! The clunk cause is evasive

Neofate

iTrader: (1)

Have the cross member under there as well. If you change pretty much everything, I would start checking wheel bearings, rotor torque, brake tightness, torque specs on all the suspension components. Check for play in shocks. Remove them and shake them, see if they make a noise. K member -- Sway bar tightness , etc. Just anything that is up there.

Heck, check light mounts, engine mounts, everything you can get your hands on. It doesn't have to be suspension to make noise necessarily.

Usually is, but when you can't find it, you never know.

Suneet

I put in new lower ball joints at around 180K. It made a difference in steering feel, but I also installed Daizen CA bushings at the same time, so I'm not sure if it was due to those..