Neofate

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys, I think I'm gonna do the Sea-Foam treatment today.. Minus the crankcase. (Edit: Did Crank too)

Just putting it in via the Brake booster,.. and maybe in the fuel.. but not Oil. (Went ahead and did oil)

My spark plugs are new -- So, by putting sea foam in Brake booster and in Fuel .. do I *NEED* to replace the plugs? Will this cleaner running through the intake screw up my new spark plugs?

Any quick replies would be appreciated, as I'm obviously going to go get it in a few hours.

Thanks,

steveski

I never put it in the brake booster but do put it in my gas tank every few months. It is not supposed to foul plugs, rather clean deposits, etc. in combustion chamber and eliminate mositure in the tank. I can't see it damaging your plugs. I drove mine to Alabama and back to Texas and used a whole can. I averaged over 25 MPG on the trip. I am not a mechanic but cannot see how it would damage your new plugs since it is designed to clean, etc.

Neofate

iTrader: (1)

I've done a little reading.. and it fouls the plugs when you use it in your intake (IE: brake booster) .. (It *can* foul them.. it certainly is going to make them a good bit dirtier). It is highly recommended to change your plugs after using it in any method other than the 'fuel tank'.

Although I think the car will run just fine after doing the brake booster.. But I can see how the 'cleaning' of the deposits in the combustion chamber is directly on the plug tips -- and with all of that moving around can foul them potentially.. And dirty them up very much.. so replacing the plugs whether the car is running odd after or not is still a good idea.

With that in mind.. I am going to get a metric socket set.. with a torque wrench (angled sockets and so on) -- Because I just opened my toolset up to remove a few covers just to take a lookat my plugs and wires.. and I couldn't find a 10 or 11mm socket and they are all strown all over the box. I just need a set. No biggie. Plus I don't own a torque wrench any longer.

I can probably get a cheap set for 30-50$ with all the sockets I need.. though I might have to buy a seperate 16mm plug deepwell socket.

I am also going to go to autozone or napa to price out some plug wires and plugs ... The plugs and wires were changed at 185k on this car, and now it has 228k.. If I do sea-foam I think it wouldn't be unreasonable to change the plugs and wires. Although the wires could probably be left alone.. Though changing plugs on an LS400 isn't that bad, its all the crap you have to take off to get to them that is. So while in there, I might as well put on fresh wires. This will be a tuneup of sorts I suppose.

I've only changed plugs twice, and on american cars.. They always end up being a pain eventually.. IE: I'll get 4 out no problem, then get to a plug hole that I can't get a wrench in.. And spend 2 hours figuring out how to get to it.

Though from the engine layout it looks like once you remove most of the stuff necessary to access.. The plugs are very easy to get to.. So a simple 16mm socket with a beefy extension should be all that is needed.

I'm not so sure about routing aftermarket plug wires though -- I can match up distributer(s) to cylinder.. but getting it all neat might pose a challenge.

This is probably an hour job for a mechanic, and an all day one for me.. wish me luck..


I plan on getting the tools, etc.. and seafoam.

Running the seafoam in the fuel tank, and then in the brake booster. (I might throw a third in the crank case.. then just go get the oil changed after I drive it 15miles or so.. (I don't feel like jacking it up and changing the oil..) But then again I might just ignore the crank case.

However, if I am doing it .. I might as well go all the way. I've read the seafoam in all three areas can reduce knock/valve ticking/pinging and just quieten things down.. Which would mean alot to me.

Also while I'm in there I might just clean the TB out a little manually with some carb cleaner. Even though the seafoam is designed for that (but the deposits in the TB are much tougher.

I'm about to head out to the stores.. but will check back on this thread before I start.

On the TB cleaning -- What is recommended? Just spraying and wiping down with a rag? Or actually scrubbing with something? If scrubbing what should I use to scrub it? (Anything to avoid to potentially damage?) -- Or would it be wise to avoid manually cleaning the TB all together?

Also, if there is any tips on the Plugs/wires or sea-foam please let me know in the next hour or so

Thanks guys,

Tommyboy72

FWIW, I have done this on other cars and it never fouled the plugs so far. Its a solvent and burns off nicely once the car is running again. I plan to do it on the LS through the brake booster vacuum hose.

jcrome04

Don't worry about fouling the plugs. Bad Rumor. Here's a DIY I made for Seafoam! It's very simple.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=334978

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

according to several members who do this treatment somewhat often the sparkplugs fouling is just a myth.

Neofate

iTrader: (1)

Thanks -- I've gotten the new plugs anyhow,.. top of the line Iridium. I am going to replace them after the Seafoam treatment .. I didn't go with wires because they were between $115 on the cheap side and $200 on the high side at the auto parts stores. If the wires test bad, I will go ahead and get some .. But for now its just Seafoam/plugs -- Also gonna try to Aim headlights, and I bought some Slyvania superstar or some such 'blue/white' ST High intensity bulbs to make things look better.

jcrome04

Make sure you put anti-sieze on the threads and dielecrtic grease on the porcelain top half! and torque them to 13 ft. lbs.

Neofate

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, I got my anti-sieze and dielectric grease.. I got the Bosche top of the line.. It has 4 contact points.. The name slips me because I don't have them beside me. Though I went ahead and sea-foamed it all.

First the Brake booster.. and fellas -- You don't need two people for this

If you reach just over to your left the throttle linkage is in arms reach. Not to mention if you do it slow enough the engine won't die.. (IE: when you feel it starting to go.. let off the suction a bit, and 2 secs later you can get back on it).

I went slow and it took about 3-4mins to soak it up.. Then I walked over and shut it off.. let it sit for 15-20mins.. Then revved.. Took 10-15seconds before any smoke.. then it came. Though nothing crazy.. Well maybe crazy if I didn't konw what it was supposed to do. But I guess that is a good sign that my engine isn't just cluttered. It smoked for a long time.. I revved it in the car till the majority of the 'thick' smoke had died down. I'd guess 10mins or so.

Then got out and walked around.. it was smoking constantly at idle.. just a small thickness.

So I opened the hood and manually revved it, watching the smoke.. not much. So then I got in the car and took it for a ride. Popped it in 'PWR' and would go from 5mph to 60mph floored.. slow up without brakes.. till it dropped to 20mph or so.. and floor it to 60.. Rinse repeat for about 4-5miles.. Came back and parked it. Got out, no mas smoke.

I thought to myself,.. hrmm its 3pm.. do I want to dig into the spark plugs right now, or do the rest of the sea-foam.

Keep in mind I changed my oil 250miles ago. I said forget it.. and put in about 5ounces in the crankcase.. and 6ounces or so in the gas. I figured a lil more in gas little less in the oil. (Per directions).

So as I speak the car is outside idling.. I'm debating about how much to go drive right now to get that stuff well into the engine cleaning.. then change the oil.

I don't want it to set overnight -- So I think I'll just drive a good 20-30miles and come back and change the oil out. (Yeah, I'm wasting money.. but I need to tune this baby up.. )

I have some TB cleaner (Specifically TB cleaner, not Carb cleaner.. with directions on the back speaking of sensors and so forth. So I feel comfortable cleaning the TB with this spray.) -- I will do the oil today, and I bought the High intensity -- ST Sylania Silverstar? The ones that are 40$ a pair, .. My normal lights are a little low, but brights were fine.. so I'm gonna change the lights out and then see what the new ones do on vision. If it still needs aiming on low beams, I will do that after. (Have to do that at night.. or its easier anyway).

Quick question.. as I was looking at the headlight assemblys while messing with engine, there is a glass lense to the inner of our headlights on Gen I's.. It has a yellow looking tint in there.. (like a yellow'ish bulb maybe.. I can't tell) -- But they don't come on.

Is that some light that is designed to be 'on' like a driving light that just is'nt working on my vehicle? (Or perhaps they are both blown) ?

Lastly,.. if anyone wants to link me (to save time) -- a How to on changing out your headlights in Gen I LS 400's that'd be great.. I know I can figure it out, but I like reading first. Also, if you can pull up an 'aiming' guide for the lights link that would be excellent!

I'm out of the door again now.. If you don't have time to find the links thats ok I'll figure it out later.

Thanks for the tips guys..

Neofate

iTrader: (1)

Sea - foam , done.. Oil changed. --

Man when that stuff came out it was three different colors, I kid you not! -- Looked like someone had poured some water in the oil.. I guess the separation of chemicals.

I've also noticed a bit of what looks like water coming out of my exhaust tips.. No smoke at all.. but like something is being flushed out the combustion chamber.. Does some of this stuff not get burned? Anyone seen this?

It isn't a blown headgasket or anything, the engine runs great and temp is steady as a rock no matter how hard I get on it. Just an odd observation.

Another observation,.. though I didn't check this before (I assumed the mechanic did) -- Anyhow, the air filter is hella dirty. I wonder if the Sea-foam backs into the intake between rev's or at idle for a long time and carbon gets on it? -- It is just a stock filter, so when I change the plugs out tommorow I will grab a K&N.

As I keep writing entries in my checkbook I'm like, sheesh, being enthusiastic about a car burns money. Just roaming around the autoparts store I could spend thousands and thousands.. --

Though I sort of had to get all the 'basics' again -- I , today, went to several stores comparing prices and in reality what came in some 150+ piece mechanic tool sets of good brands. I needed it all because mine is a jumbled mess of like, oh here's a 7mm.. but no 8,9,10,11 oh nice a 12mm.. and so on My ratches were cheap and are bad.. So I just got a new set, and a couple additions (angles/ujoints/extensions etc) to do the basic work that I have planned out.

Btw,.. I found out about those two 'inner' lights that weren't working. There is a switch on my headlight **** that flips the 'fog' lights on or off. (Never been in a car that had the location there. So that answers that.)

Man I wish I was rich, I have so many projects I need/want to do on this thing that when added up will break the current budget. (IE: I need a tailight, and a headlight and one fog light. -- All three have tiny cracks in them, nothing obvious, but enough to allow them to condensate moisture which is throwing the passenger fog light to a different 'hue'.)

Gonna hang out for a bit then get the new lights installed and aim if need be.

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

yea, there should be a switch on the stalk.

and i prefer sears tools (Craftsman)

Neofate

iTrader: (1)

Heh, I found that .. guess all I had to do was look for it.. I sort of did in passing just never would have guessed it would be in the most 'normal' place it should be on all cars. I've turned fog lights on from separate factory buttons all over a car.

Any comments on the liquid from exhaust?

Och

iTrader: (3)

Do yourself two favors:

1) Make sure you dont use anything but stock NGK spark plugs. If you want to replace them, might as well do a few seafoam treatments before you do that.

2) Do not use a K&N filter. It will screw up your AFM. There are people that will try to tell you otherwise, but take it from me - it screwed up the MAF on my GS430. I was able to clean the MAF, and the car ran fine, but the AFM on the LS cannot be cleaned. Also, I replaced the MAF in the GS later on anyway, just in case, but a brand new MAF for a GS is only $120, and for LS its over $1000.

skperformance

iTrader: (6)

The liquid coming from the tailpipes is water.
it is from your cats which have now been cleaned and are working optimally instead of occasionally. Also running it hard will cause the car to run rich and create more water. It is a great sign if it never happened before . Your mileage should go up now.

Neofate

iTrader: (1)

Does everyone agree on this? That there are but two brands that run an LS 400 well? Denso and NGK?

The plugs I have are:

http://www.boschautoparts.com/Produc...Plugs/IrFusion

Bosch has always made top of the line plugs,.. Why would these be not, at least, as good?

Not to be rude, but this sounds like brand loyalty,.. I know the factory uses NGK/Denso .. but.. This looks like a great plug, from a reputuable brand/company. It is the top of the line Autozone carries.

I can get NGK's , though I am curious about the why these plugs I have will be a bad idea?


There are huge debates on this. Though a cheaper filter isn't going to make much of a difference.. I know K&N filters aren't worth the money unless you really take care of them, and even then the effort isn't worth the time invested. Everyone else agree, K&N = Bad MAF?

I'm gonna take your advice here regardless.

Thanks for the heed of caution.