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LS - 1st and 2nd Gen (1990-2000) Discussion topics related to the 1990 - 2000 Lexus LS400

Fuel Guage Problems.... Help!!

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Old Feb 9, 2008 | 09:08 AM
  #16  
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well i would prefer new, that way i dont have to worry about it, i will buy it from the link posted, just want to make sure thats the right one and will work. Theres alot of other criteria like series number and terminal types and all that other stuff.

Its inexpensive enough to buy new and not have to worry.
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Old Feb 12, 2008 | 02:48 PM
  #17  
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No one knows if those caps will work? There has to be someone out there that can make a recommendation.
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Old Feb 12, 2008 | 03:05 PM
  #18  
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I have the same problem. Anyone happen to have pictures or a simple description (or perhaps a link) on how a layman can fix this problem? At the moment I don't know where on the cluster to look, etc. I do have soldering gun, etc.. and I have soldered before. I am guess I find the capacitor, snip it off? Then solder new one in its place, and that is the skinny of it?

Pictures would be great, (IE: If someone has a cluster out of the car, could you take a few snaps and circle the area of the capacitor using MSpaint or something) -- -- If not any description or link to a how-to would be great.

If no how-to's are available, I will create a DIY article with extensive pictures and post on this forum when I do it myself.

*Edit* -- When I get to this page:

http://www.newark.com/jsp/search/bro...&Ntt=c142&Ntx=

Searching for the C142 cap -- I am unsure of what 'specifications to mark' to obtain the correct cap?


Thanks,

Last edited by Neofate; Feb 12, 2008 at 03:16 PM.
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Old Feb 12, 2008 | 03:48 PM
  #19  
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Default The exact voltage is not necessary

Don't get to hung up on the exact voltage. Use a Capacitor with at least as high a voltage rating as the one you are replacing. C142 is a 4.7uF with a 25V rating....this is a tough one to find. A 4.7uF 35V is available at most supply houses and Radio Shack. That is what I used and it works fine. You could even use 35V rated caps for the 16V C212 for those with a dash light problem.

Tripfly
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Old Feb 12, 2008 | 04:01 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by tripfly
Don't get to hung up on the exact voltage. Use a Capacitor with at least as high a voltage rating as the one you are replacing. C142 is a 4.7uF with a 25V rating....this is a tough one to find. A 4.7uF 35V is available at most supply houses and Radio Shack. That is what I used and it works fine. You could even use 35V rated caps for the 16V C212 for those with a dash light problem.

Tripfly
Good to know.

If I am looking through old electronic equipment. How will the capacitor be labeled? So I know exactly what to look for?

Is the cap black generally?

Thanks,
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Old Feb 12, 2008 | 04:25 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Neofate
Good to know.

If I am looking through old electronic equipment. How will the capacitor be labeled? So I know exactly what to look for?

Is the cap black generally?

Thanks,
Capacitors can be any color. It will be labeled with it's Farad rating...in the case of C142 that will be 4.7uF. be sure to get the right Farad rating. Farads are inconvenient measurements because there are lots of similar looking ratings. For instance You can find 470 pF (pico Farads) or .47 F or 47 uF and of course only the 4.7 uF will work for C142. it will be marked with a max voltage rating probably either 35V or 35WVDC if it is an electrolytic cap. As I said previously, this is not as important to match....just get at least as high a Voltage rating. There will be arrows or minus signs adjacent to on of the legs. Some caps are stamped with their rating on the top.

I am not sure I would be looking for caps from old equipment because heat is the enemy of capacitors and the dielectric will breakdown over time. You would probably be better of using 85 degree caps from Radio Shack. (Remember 85 degree C is something like 180 degree F)

Good luck

Trip
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Old Feb 12, 2008 | 04:48 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Neofate
I have the same problem. Anyone happen to have pictures or a simple description (or perhaps a link) on how a layman can fix this problem? At the moment I don't know where on the cluster to look, etc. I do have soldering gun, etc.. and I have soldered before. I am guess I find the capacitor, snip it off? Then solder new one in its place, and that is the skinny of it?

Pictures would be great, (IE: If someone has a cluster out of the car, could you take a few snaps and circle the area of the capacitor using MSpaint or something) -- -- If not any description or link to a how-to would be great.

If no how-to's are available, I will create a DIY article with extensive pictures and post on this forum when I do it myself.

*Edit* -- When I get to this page:

http://www.newark.com/jsp/search/bro...&Ntt=c142&Ntx=

Searching for the C142 cap -- I am unsure of what 'specifications to mark' to obtain the correct cap?


Thanks,
DIRECTIONS FOR REMOVING INSTRUMENT CLUSTER

http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/elect...ntcluster.html


CIRCUT BOARD REMOVAL AND CHANGING PART

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums...showtopic=5822

Last edited by MoJoMan; Feb 12, 2008 at 04:58 PM.
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Old Feb 12, 2008 | 06:26 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by tripfly
Don't get to hung up on the exact voltage. Use a Capacitor with at least as high a voltage rating as the one you are replacing. C142 is a 4.7uF with a 25V rating....this is a tough one to find. A 4.7uF 35V is available at most supply houses and Radio Shack. That is what I used and it works fine. You could even use 35V rated caps for the 16V C212 for those with a dash light problem.

Tripfly
I found two caps that are identical ratings, im asking if there acceptable for use. im my post with the 2 links, each one is a capacitor with the same 4.7uf 25v rating, im looking for someone who knows this stuff to tell me if they would work so i can order them and fix my cluster.
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Old Feb 12, 2008 | 07:19 PM
  #24  
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Mojoman!

Thank you so much. That is exactly what I have been asking.. Makes me feel a little bit like a fool because the information is on this board somewhere obviously -- But, this board is now huge, so it takes a bit of digging. I truly appreciate you linking exactly what I needed to do this repair.

I have but one more question now:

While I have the board out, I might as well replace all the caps, I even saw a transistor mentioned that often goes out.

I can't imagine the total price being more than 10 dollars if I bought ever cap/trans on the circuit board that is likely to go out.

With that in mind:

Could you guys list for me all the Capacitors and any transistors (even if it just that one mentioned in the link above about the flickering lights) -- that I would need in advance?

IE:

C142 - 25v 4.7uf
C212 - XXv XXuf

and so on? So I can go ahead and buy all the parts.. and I am going to bring this over to my grand father who worked for Nasa as an electrical engineer. He is in his 70's so I might have to do some of the steady work, but I've never brought him something he couldn't figure out how to fix, and changing caps and such out should be right up his ally, especially with that small guide telling approximately what to do.

So, I'm just missing what all parts to buy -- You don't have to link the parts to me (though that would exceptional) -- I can go to radioshack and ask for all parts you list.. but I would highly appreciate it if any of you can just rattle off the Caps/trans and their ratings for a 1994 LS 400 (Of course only the ones that are likely to go bad.. which might be all of them for all I know).

Again thank you!
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