Dear MAlvis,

I've looked at this problem with my instrument cluster & attempted the cleaning fix a number of times over the years.
I've never been successful, probably because I've never been able to remove the 3 gold-colored screws that hold the 2 black covers on as shown in your first photo. This has meant poor access to clean the needle stop.

I haven't wanted to remove the circuit board from the needle drive mechanism to gain access to the screws, because I wasn't sure how easy it would be to reassemble. It's held together with 4 metal tabs on the drive mechanism case that protrude through slots in the board and are bent over to secure them.

Please, how did you remove the 3 gold-colored screws? I'd really appreciate your help. (My wife would too -the parts are currently all over the dining table).

 

Sorry, this is my first time. I was replying to post # 88.

 

David1, I did a speedo/tach needle repair in the below thread. It did not require too much in the way of disassembly, but it did require some close work. I think it was 2018. I am 30,000 miles later with flawless needles and calibration.

... And I Have A New Old Lexus

 

Dear Amskeptic,
Thank you very much for taking the time to respond to me.
I followed your link but it led me to a site for Volkswagens. I perused it for a while but couldn't see anything that related to my particular problem, which is removing the 3 screws in the first picture in this thread's post # 88. Does your link relate to this?
Thanks again for your help.

 

Did you follow my signature link? That is my professional site. I know I did not have a live link to "...and I Have A New Old Lexus" thread in this forum. It is below. Go to reply # 29.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-1st-and-2nd-gen-1990-2000/849931-and-i-have-a-new-old-lexus.html

 

100% agree. I just bought two circuit boards for the instrument cluster from him and they work just fine!

 

The Temp gauge after a while starts to move but it isn’t the right temp obviously, my only working gauge is my fuel gauge. Would anyone be able to help me understand how to fix this? I can solder, i just want to know how to fix my speedometer, odometer and my tachometer. (The traction and airbag light are not problems, i have a welded diff so that light will always be on and always was on since i welded it. The airbag light was bc i forgot to unplug my battery, it’s a false code i haven’t had time to clear.)

 

those gauges are gone man. Once they drop they’re done

 

yeah i figured that was obvious lol, but is there a way i can solder in new ones? Or do i have better luck dropping the 2-300 for a new cluster all together.

 

Speaking from personal experience on the 95-97 you can definitely piece the gauges together. If you can get a junkyard cluster you can probably drop those individual gauges in your 1st gen too.

 

sweet! i was gonna go to the junk yard my next day off anyways, i appreciate it man! I started her up after a long winter and they just didn’t boot up and i was devastated!

 

While you can exchange individual gauges from a second gen cluster with another second gen cluster, and can do the same with a first gen cluster, you cannot move individual gauges from one generation cluster to another generation cluster. I've just torn down two junkyard units and the innards are radically different between gen one and gen two.

 

Just a general note since I am seeing this post now.

For issues like these with the needles on first gen, please see the posts I have made several times in the past and Amskeptic's posts.

I had the same problem with my tachometer and fixed it years ago with some glue and caution. It's very repairable.

The needle fading is also documented on LexLS

 

The new starting position for my needle is 140kmh...it will increase from there but wont decrease. (My son pegged the speedometer at 180K and when he did it obviously jump realigned ) Doesn't sound like the same issue as yours but I'm hoping use your instruction as a guide for the fix.