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Hi all, I ran into an issue a few days ago when my LS wouldn’t start, when I turned to start it would only hear a click sound and what sounded like the fuel pump going. I usually moved it from drive to neutral wherever this happened before the odd odd time but that didn’t cut it. So I removed my starter relay and connected it back in and it started up. Fast forward a few days and that fix no longer worked either so I ran and grabbed a relay from Lordco and when I came back I decided to just try and see if it worked after it being left,started up fine. So then I drove to fuel up and when I went to go start again, nothing, replaced the relay and still nothing. I had to get it towed back home and I’m at a loss now because I’m not sure what is going on I’m possibly thinking the solenoid contacts as the starter has already been replaced but I’m not sure. If anyone has any idea what to try or if you’ve run into this before you help if appreciated! Oh and I’ve checked the voltage when starting and running which is perfect.
If there's still no crank, you're probably looking at a starter replacement.
Because of the labor involved with starter replacements, I see zero advantage to just doing the solenoid contacts. It's better to just replace the entire unit.
There could be an outside chance it's the ignition switch but I'd put that down at the bottom of the list.
If there's still no crank, you're probably looking at a starter replacement.
Because of the labor involved with starter replacements, I see zero advantage to just doing the solenoid contacts. It's better to just replace the entire unit.
There could be an outside chance it's the ignition switch but I'd put that down at the bottom of the list.
Ah the dreaded S-word, I was thinking of taking a look at the NSS to see if maybe the grease is causing the contacts to not function because like I said before when this rarely happened previously, shifting into neutral or neutral back to park worked. As for starters DENSO seems to be the best as it’s OEM? I’m just trying to get the best replacement parts I can when I’m replacing to save future me a headache.
Great thank you. Also how much of a PITA is the ignition switch because my accessories and that all seem fine but I’d like to do as much preventative maintenance as I can.
Great thank you. Also how much of a PITA is the ignition switch because my accessories and that all seem fine but I’d like to do as much preventative maintenance as I can.
I wouldn't replace the switch just because.
Replacing the ignition switch isn't too big of a PITA. The only things I had to struggle with were:
Removing the screws that hold the switch in place. The screws are pointing towards the interior. Because of clearance issues with getting my hand back there and having to hold a screwdriver with the blade facing towards myself, it was a cramped operation. The screws were locking type with upset threads (see image) which added an extra layer of frustration. I went to the hardware store and got stainless steel socket head cap screws and toothed washers and used these instead during reassembly.
Note: The screws are JIS and not standard Phillips.
I didn't remove the column from the car as instructed in the service manual. I just removed the nuts securing the column to the dashboard structure and lowered the column instead. I rested the column on a jack stand while swapping the switch.
Getting the studs in the dashboard structure and the holes in the column to line up during reassembly was a bit of a struggle. I had to push in on the column to get it all lined up.
I didn't spend the cash for a $185 OEM switch. I replaced it with a $53 Standard Motor Products part. I have yet to have a crap part from SMP and have been installing their parts since the 1970's. However, they do have a T-Series budget line of parts that I avoid.
Replacing the ignition switch isn't too big of a PITA. The only things I had to struggle with were:
Removing the screws that hold the switch in place. The screws are pointing towards the interior. Because of clearance issues with getting my hand back there and having to hold a screwdriver with the blade facing towards myself, it was a cramped operation. The screws were locking type with upset threads (see image) which added an extra layer of frustration. I went to the hardware store and got stainless steel socket head cap screws and toothed washers and used these instead during reassembly.
Note: The screws are JIS and not standard Phillips.
I didn't remove the column from the car as instructed in the service manual. I just removed the nuts securing the column to the dashboard structure and lowered the column instead. I rested the column on a jack stand while swapping the switch.
Getting the studs in the dashboard structure and the holes in the column to line up during reassembly was a bit of a struggle. I had to push in on the column to get it all lined up.
I didn't spend the cash for a $185 OEM switch. I replaced it with a $53 Standard Motor Products part. I have yet to have a crap part from SMP and have been installing their parts since the 1970's. However, they do have a T-Series budget line of parts that I avoid.
thank you so much for all the information, I agree SMP has served me well I’ve got a few of their parts on the Lexus so far and have had no issues! I appreciate your response
An update to this issue, I decided to change out my battery terminals because they were a little loose and possibly contributing to this issue. When I removed the crimped end of the negative terminal, there was some corrosion that continued down about 2 in. So I cleaned it off and covered the cable with heavy duty heat shrink. The car started up great and I tried it a few times. Now come this morning I drove the car then when I went to start it again, no crank. So the issue seems to be with it being warm, then left to cool it starts fine. Even more puzzled now, I’m going to try and clean the NSS contacts and regrease tonight or if there are any other suggestions out there it would be a big help!
edit: got home and tried to start it again after turning it off it doesn’t crank at all. I am more confused than ever
09-03-23, 12:42 PM
1990 LS400 not starting (no crank)
Oh and I’ve checked the voltage when starting and running which is perfect. 
onse 