when a retrofit is done.......
in the 98-05 GS housing, do the screws for the aiming of the lights still apply.
i am talking about the headlight aiming on the non-hid housing. will they still work and aim the retrofit when turned?
i am talking about the headlight aiming on the non-hid housing. will they still work and aim the retrofit when turned?
Yes if the retro is properly done and the projector is properly centered and aligned it will work the same as stock one exception is with my ls430 is I had to trim the factory trim piece so I can retain my vertical and horizontal alignment that is because the ls430 shroud is such a fat-***. If you dont mind me asking ,What setup are you going with?
since the projector will be mounted on the OEM reflector, you retain all OEM adjustments.
Yes if the retro is properly done and the projector is properly centered and aligned it will work the same as stock one exception is with my ls430 is I had to trim the factory trim piece so I can retain my vertical and horizontal alignment that is because the ls430 shroud is such a fat-***. If you dont mind me asking ,What setup are you going with?
actually, i bought them already retrofitted from a guy but i don't like the work done.i am tearing it all apart to rebuild it. good thing is am not starting from scratch and housing have been blackened already.
One main thing i realized was the projector in the set-up was not glued in place using a thermal stable glue (like in jeffstai's instruction)or bolted down in the housing. it does not move out of place but if you use your hand it does. i did not like it and want to fix this.
Also, he did not clean the inside of the lense and so it has particles on the inside.(not that much from anyone else's but i believe doing a retro is a chance to clean the inside lens).
ok,
some questions,
1. My goal is to adjust the projectors to sit in place . so am "baking it" and taking the lens out. what kind of glue can i use to make it sit in the housing?
2. I was going through jeffstai's retrofit instructions and he mentioned aiming the beams correctly before finally sealing. here is the picture of him aiming.(borrowed from his site. i hope he does not mind)http://www.projectgs.com/DIY/Lightin.../retro_069.jpg
my question is how do you know when the aim is correct or alright, too high or too low?(since its not installed on the car yet?). And can't one set the aim after installing on the car with the screws on the housing as described above in the original first post.
thanks guys.
i decided to take the retrofit plunge and i don't think it would be that bad since am just adjusting it and not startng it from scratch.
any info is appreciated.
olddog
oh, my bad, i guess when he said aiming, he meant making sure the light beam is straight (like across a wall) and not bending before sealing finally.
just figured that out.
am growing too old
but Jay-Z said 30 is the new 20. So i guess at 23 am only about 15
any info or advice on the retrofit guys?
just figured that out.
am growing too old

but Jay-Z said 30 is the new 20. So i guess at 23 am only about 15

any info or advice on the retrofit guys?
getting the beam straight on the wall is probably the most difficult part of a retrofit. wanted to get mine perfect so i would mount it on the car without the lens to adjust it. mine's still not perfect and i want to redo it sometime.
good luck!
good luck!
I mounted one light and I had my halogen on the other side and I adjusted based on the lower step on my halogen at about 30 feet halogen gs lights have a goofy ece type gutoff line ( no upper step ) at 30 feet the lower step is a staight line if you match that line with your retro youre good once you got one side done repeat this with the other retro,you want to match the line with the other projector that you have lined up after that you can close everything up
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i think aiming the projector at the wall and making sure the cutoff is horizontally straight, before you seal up the headlight, is meant to make sure the projector is not tilted a little to one side, because then the light cutoff will be tilted, not a straight line. You can always move the light beam up or down or side to side later with the screws in the back of the headlight, but you won't be able to tilt the projector later.
okay,
i have another problem. is it ok to use silicon to bond the projector into the hole cut through the reflector ?
i can't seem to find any substance that can do the job.
i have another problem. is it ok to use silicon to bond the projector into the hole cut through the reflector ?
i can't seem to find any substance that can do the job.
I used RTV blue silicone. There might be better stuff but that did the job. I would also recommend putting silicone around the edge of the housing when you close up the headlight to avoid moisture/condensation inside the housing. When I finished my retrofit I had condensation in the headlight but I put a bead of silicone around the edge of the housing and the moisture was gone.
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