Mr. P,

I used your book for my system 240 install in the front doors - kudo's Love the tweeter placement !!

Question...Currently I'm running a JL Audio 300/4 (75x4 at any ohm) to the Dyn's and some Diamond M361's (6 1/4 coaxials) in the rear doors. I just "moved" up to a Pioneer DEX-P9 HU and the DEQ-P9 processor. I have an extra set of MW170's I want to run in the rear doors (by themselves). I can set my DEQ-P9 to any high and low crossover point I want. Should I continue to run the Diamond coaxial or should I use the MW170's for more mid bass ? Also, what low pass and high pass do you suggest ?

Thanks !

Jim

 

Percy, as long as you are answering Dynaudio questions, I find myself with a new GS300 garage mate that is ready for upgrading. Are the 240 MKII's still the preferred setup for the front doors? I see the other two 240 kits are now available. Just stick with the regular MkII's or go with one of the others?

 

Jim,

Nice moveup to the Pioneer!

Since you have a coax in the back, you're getting some high frequencies. That's good if you often carry passengers, not so good if you're listening to music by yourself most of the time. Tweeters, unless properly attenuated, will drag the soundstage to the rear of the vehicle. Not a good thing! But, if it's carefully done, I don't see why the Diamonds can't stay back there.

The Dyn midbass is more neutral than all of the speakers that I've listened to. If you do decide to go with the MW170's in back, you can high pass them at 50 to 70hz with no problems. Lowpass them at 4khz/24db oct. They'll sound great and they'll have better midbass than the smaller 6.5's.

Percy

 

Ron,

They made a GT version and the Mk II version. The GT version was made for 6.5 inch, tight fitting areas. The Mk II version has a larger basket and a much more rigid structure to the basket. The ESOTAR version is recommended IF you have kick pod installations. Those tweets are HUGE (5.75 inches in diameter w/a 2.5 inch mounting depth!) but they are, imo, UNBEATEN by any other tweeter on the market, BAR NONE. I have a set of the home ESOTAR's and they're incredible!!! Too bad these won't fit in the A pillars!

Let me know how it goes on your project! I've just ordered out a faceplate for my GS from autotoys.com and am planning to ramp up again ...with some more tricks up my sleeve.

Percy

 

Percy,

Thanks for the quick reply, I think I'll go with the MW170's and see what it sounds like. I also ordered the dash kit from Autotoys. The one I have now matches great (made from MDF) but the Din hole just doesn't look right on the upper part of the kit. I'm hoping that the Autotoys one with the lower pocket will even out the look.

Jim

 

Thanks Percy. Figured the MkII's were still the best choice. While I like doing the work myself for therapy, looks like fitting the Esotar tweeters is more work than I want to take on. Heck, I am sloooooooooooowly working my way up to replacing the sub and then looking at the amp for my car but I think that will wait until I do the dyns in the doors of my wifes new GS3, they are just that much of an improvement and I really want to get some more sound deadening in the door panels of her car. Probably going to fool around with the tweeter mounting with a thin perf board, really not happy with what I did on my car.

I have been following the thread on the faceplate. While it is not in my immediate future, I will order one as well. Want to see a) how well it matches and b) how good the quality is. Figure it is worth it to put on the shelf in case the mood strikes me in the future. I feel another chapter or two for THE BOOK, SECOND EDITION about replacing the head unit and what to do with the CD changer (even if it goes, how do you pull the littel jewel out and put the glove box back in shape). Oh, and if you work out a good mounting for the Esotars, well there's a chapter on its own.

Hopefully there will be enough time in the next couple of months for the MW180 install and impressions. Still don't know if I should have ordered the MW190 but my feeling is that for the stock amp, this is probably a good choice and Dyn says they are OK for free air which is what I really want.

Just for kicks, have you seen that new Nology computer box that plugs into the OBDII and presents a really large amount of data? Wonder if it is worth it for light engine modding?

 

Ron,

Nology, imo, is crap. Had a set of their wires and the end result was a messed up computer. Werner (part of Nology) said he would "look into it". That was back in '91 and still no word. I'd avoid Nology at all costs if it's the same one that I remember. (Silverstone plugs, "hotwires", etc.)

Will definitely keep in mind your ideas on the faceplate (already ordered one!) and the Esotar mounting. The esotar doesn't sound the same without it's baffle!

Percy

 

Thanks Percy. Yeah it is the same outfit, the little box looked cute but if they don't appreciate the complexity of the modern automotive electrical systems, well, life is too short...

Ron

 

Ron,

Received the faceplate a couple of days ago and it looks GOOD. I'll have to dig up some Walnut Veneer, bing cherry stain and some time to match it with my wood dash. This was the biggest thing holding my system back...that of a good dash kit. I can probably finish the rest of the system (functionality wise) in about 1 to 2 days.

I do believe Todd M. (Doublewhoosh) sells these kits for about 20 dollars...roughly half of Autotoys.

Percy

 

Well, that swings it for me. Even if it stays on the shelf for a while.

Thanks, Percy.