Last edit by: IB Advertising
See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:
Browse all: Interior
- How do I Install Aftermarket Amplifier power wire
Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs
Browse all: Interior
HOW-TO: SC300/SC400 Install Aftermarket Head Unit, OEM Speakers and Sub Working!
#556
Yeah... 80's GM OEM stereos were so bad.
Like I said dude - whatever floats your boat. You don't have to explain why you prefer the OEM stereo, all I was saying is that for the sound "quality" (90's quality) it offers it's not worth the trouble. But by all means, if you want to keep the OEM then that's fine, you have your reasons.
Plus, an SC isn't a classic. At least not the one we got here in the U.S. Heh
Like I said dude - whatever floats your boat. You don't have to explain why you prefer the OEM stereo, all I was saying is that for the sound "quality" (90's quality) it offers it's not worth the trouble. But by all means, if you want to keep the OEM then that's fine, you have your reasons.
Plus, an SC isn't a classic. At least not the one we got here in the U.S. Heh
I beg to differ about SC's not approaching classic status though, especially if you add a bunch of hardware from the non-US versions or MKIV Supra to bring the driving experience in line with the looks. I do feel Toyota (and Nissan) in the 90's gutted these things for the U.S. market they were initially designed for. But that trend is still going on today with plenty of new models.
Anyway, thank you for your help with this, Raine! The possible noise on the shared +12V Constant and/or +12V Switched connections in addition to the ground location are the last things I will look into changing. If that doesn't work... then the OEM HU's days are numbered.
Begs the question though: would recent aftermarket HU's also get even some electrical interference noise from sharing the same two types of +12V connections through the factory stereo harness with another electronic device like an LXCC or... anything similar? Obviously the ground connection is always the first thing to check.
Last edited by KahnBB6; 03-09-16 at 02:20 AM.
#557
Don't get me wrong here - when I had my SC I loved it, but I had to do/add/mod/change a lot of it to get to that point (my build thread shows just how much LOL). For me, true classics are exceptional and unforgettable straight out the door
no prob, sir
Begs the question though: would recent aftermarket HU's also get even some electrical interference noise from sharing the same two types of +12V connections through the factory stereo harness with another electronic device like an LXCC or... anything similar? Obviously the ground connection is always the first thing to check.
That scenario I described with the amp draw is a very common problem, usually happens when people install car audio and try to use one amp cable to power everything by splicing everything along the amp line. Like I said before - the issue is caused by the amp draw of one device being higher than the maximum amp draw that the other device(s) are capable of seeing. BTW don't confuse this with bad ground - having a bad ground can also cause noise but not in the same way. A simple way to kind of describe the difference is:
Shared amp draw = like saying, there's too much trying to go in
Bad ground = like saying there's not enough space to get out
Does that make sense?
#558
Sure, they can - aftermarket or not - because you're still sharing a 12V+. If anything, I would leave the factory stereo power wire (12v+) to power the head unit only, and nothing else. If you have no choice but to splice to get power to another electronic device, at least splice into a harness that has nothing to do with audio components (i.e. cigarette lighter harness). By doing it this way, you at least keep the audio isolated from everything else, as intended. If there's electrical noise generrated elsewhere, at least you won't hear it through the speakers.
That scenario I described with the amp draw is a very common problem, usually happens when people install car audio and try to use one amp cable to power everything by splicing everything along the amp line. Like I said before - the issue is caused by the amp draw of one device being higher than the maximum amp draw that the other device(s) are capable of seeing. BTW don't confuse this with bad ground - having a bad ground can also cause noise but not in the same way. A simple way to kind of describe the difference is:
Shared amp draw = like saying, there's too much trying to go in
Bad ground = like saying there's not enough space to get out
Does that make sense?
That scenario I described with the amp draw is a very common problem, usually happens when people install car audio and try to use one amp cable to power everything by splicing everything along the amp line. Like I said before - the issue is caused by the amp draw of one device being higher than the maximum amp draw that the other device(s) are capable of seeing. BTW don't confuse this with bad ground - having a bad ground can also cause noise but not in the same way. A simple way to kind of describe the difference is:
Shared amp draw = like saying, there's too much trying to go in
Bad ground = like saying there's not enough space to get out
Does that make sense?
I am going to go back to the harness I made and separate out the +12V Switched signal to draw from the cigarette accessory splitter harness that's already done in the car.
However I also should do the same with drawing my +12V Battery/Constant signal from somewhere else, correct? Do you know of another good location for that?
#559
It depends on what the other 12v+ constant is for. If it's just for memory purposes (i.e. radio settings, accessory memory) then generally it's a very low amp draw. Usually with head units the 12v+ switched is the main power supply. Whatyou would need to find out is how the LXCC thing is configured - I would guess that either it:
A. Uses 12v+ constant into an internal main power relay activated by a 12v+ switched (so high amp draw would be through 12v+ constant)
OR
B. It uses the "stereo" style power setup with the 12v+ constant for low-amp memory retention only, with the main power being through the 12v+ switched (so high amp draw would be through 12v+ switched).
That said, based on what way the LXCC is wired, just be sure to isolate the "main power" wires for each accessory; in most cases the memory wires don't draw enough power to cause noise. Ee: my old setup had the head unit 12v+ switched wire isolated from the EDFC 12v+ switched wire, but the EDFC 12v+ constant (for remembering my presets) was spliced into the OEM head unit 12v+ constant. Bear in mind the EDFC was wired directly to the 4 electrical motors on top of the shocks... but nope - I had no electrical noise.
A. Uses 12v+ constant into an internal main power relay activated by a 12v+ switched (so high amp draw would be through 12v+ constant)
OR
B. It uses the "stereo" style power setup with the 12v+ constant for low-amp memory retention only, with the main power being through the 12v+ switched (so high amp draw would be through 12v+ switched).
That said, based on what way the LXCC is wired, just be sure to isolate the "main power" wires for each accessory; in most cases the memory wires don't draw enough power to cause noise. Ee: my old setup had the head unit 12v+ switched wire isolated from the EDFC 12v+ switched wire, but the EDFC 12v+ constant (for remembering my presets) was spliced into the OEM head unit 12v+ constant. Bear in mind the EDFC was wired directly to the 4 electrical motors on top of the shocks... but nope - I had no electrical noise.
#560
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Arizona
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
All time current
Hey man I did exactly what you stated on this thread but for some reason I get the head unit on at all times. Even with the key not being in ignition switch I also notice that if I unplug the antenna that's the only way it goes off. Here is my number 8055589572 if you can call me to better explain..thanks
#561
Hey man I did exactly what you stated on this thread but for some reason I get the head unit on at all times. Even with the key not being in ignition switch I also notice that if I unplug the antenna that's the only way it goes off. Here is my number 8055589572 if you can call me to better explain..thanks
#562
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: NL
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Raine. I do alot of custom installs. The fact that you were awesome enough to go out of your way 7 YEARS ago and do this thread up for everyone is amazing. Best thread I have EVER read online and way too good for just a thread, should be in a manual. The fact that you are still helping people too after all this time only shows how I am right about you and for you doing this in the first place. Ignore any "person" who throws negatives your way because they could never be you ... FACT. Thanks for doing this and helping so many with this. My hat is of to you.
#563
Raine. I do alot of custom installs. The fact that you were awesome enough to go out of your way 7 YEARS ago and do this thread up for everyone is amazing. Best thread I have EVER read online and way too good for just a thread, should be in a manual. The fact that you are still helping people too after all this time only shows how I am right about you and for you doing this in the first place. Ignore any "person" who throws negatives your way because they could never be you ... FACT. Thanks for doing this and helping so many with this. My hat is of to you.
#564
I'd also like to thank you for writing this up man. I bought my 97 a month ago and took apart the head unit and the previous owner did exactly what you did so I'm confident it wasn't a hack job.
#566
Driver School Candidate
Worked!
I used Metra Harness but not for sub amp integration. I just hooked up the RCA like above. But I made my own RCA to speaker wire by using the shielding as ground and the middle wire as positive. This is on a 95 SC 300 with Pioneer system, 155K. Thanks for this post!
#568
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Arizona
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Has anyone done a writeup like this for an SC300/400 with the Nakamichi head unit and amp? I quite frankly don't want to go through all 38 pages of this thread to look, and if it hasn't been done, I'd like to do it. Any help would be appreciated. Please don't ask me to use the search feature...If I had tried that and found my answer, I wouldn't be here.
#569
Has anyone done a writeup like this for an SC300/400 with the Nakamichi head unit and amp? I quite frankly don't want to go through all 38 pages of this thread to look, and if it hasn't been done, I'd like to do it. Any help would be appreciated. Please don't ask me to use the search feature...If I had tried that and found my answer, I wouldn't be here.
PLEASE READ THIS INFO ON TWO IMPORTANT SUBJECTS FIRST:
#1 - This is for a PIONEER SYSTEM. Not a NAKAMICHI, no matter how many times you ask!
Everything in this how-to was written for a Pioneer system. All of the wiring locations and specifications were based on a Pioneer system. If you have a Nakamichi system, this DOES NOT work as written. I can't help you with your Nakamichi system, though some people have posted in this thread how they got it to work.
#1 - This is for a PIONEER SYSTEM. Not a NAKAMICHI, no matter how many times you ask!
Everything in this how-to was written for a Pioneer system. All of the wiring locations and specifications were based on a Pioneer system. If you have a Nakamichi system, this DOES NOT work as written. I can't help you with your Nakamichi system, though some people have posted in this thread how they got it to work.
#570
When it comes to car radios I like the old stuff, just easier to work, I like ***** especially for the volume.
krbrabeck I'm with you on the search deal. I am amazed how it can't even find some posts I have done.
Its just so simple for a person to just say what it is, rather than waste the time and effort to say "search it".
krbrabeck I'm with you on the search deal. I am amazed how it can't even find some posts I have done.
Its just so simple for a person to just say what it is, rather than waste the time and effort to say "search it".