raine

iTrader: (7)

Doesn't really need a tutorial - it just goes in-line between the head unit and the sub amp, just like any other signal processor/crossover. I mounted mine under the CD changer cage, and I modded the OEM SC volume **** to become the sub level ****.

triumph013

Sweet write up. I just got an SC300 that already has an aftermarket head unit with extremely bad alternator whine. Planning on doing this soon hoping to get rid of that.

raine

iTrader: (7)

That might just simply be a bad ground

triumph013

Do you suggest simply grounding the head unit to the chassis before I go through with bypassing the OEM amp?

raine

iTrader: (7)

Wouldn't hurt, I would try grounding it to the chassis directly, not to the the wiring harness ground.

triumph013

Didn't work. I'm going to ditch the aftermarket harness and try to wire it up like you did. I do have a few more questions though. I noticed you didn't use a remote power wire, you only used the antenna wire. Although some cd players have both, mine does not. Is that why you wired two wires on the car to the antenna wire on the cd player harness? Is this also why you noticed that the sub amp is only powered on while the antenna is up? I never use the radio and my antenna stays up while the head unit is on, even if I'm using a different source. I don't want to hook up the power antenna, I would rather leave the antenna down. So what do these two wires do? Do they both go to the antenna, or is one of these wires the power wire to the sub amp? If I don't wire up the power antenna, will I still be able to rewire the plug for the sub amp like you did and get power to the sub amp?

Edit: Never mind. I think I can leave both unhooked and still get power to the sub amp by splicing the wire described under "Subwoofer for all sources" since the wire you are using to supply power is an ACC power wire

raine

iTrader: (7)

yeah, the "remote" wire basically does the same thing as the "ACC" wire - it has voltage only when the key is in the "on" position, so you can use it as a "remote" if needs be.

triumph013

One last question. I connected my sub wires as described above, D1 (black) to positive and D5 (white) to negative, but your picture is opposite. The wire with the white stripe is the negative wire. Which is correct? My sub isn't working, and I'm trying to figure out if I did something wrong or if it just doesn't work.

raine

iTrader: (7)

D1 to positive, D5 to negative. Don't pay attention too much to the stripe - which, now that I noticed, is backwards - which explains why my system sounds a tad better with the sub in reverse phase on the head unit LOL

HOWEVER - switching D1 and D5 back and forth would have nothing to do with the sub working or not - it would just affect the phase of the signal sent to the OEM sub amp.

triumph013

Ok. So I have a problem elsewhere. Thanks man.

The2JZFTW

How do I go about diagnosing what's wrong with the sub?

The2JZFTW

I'm not sure if it's the bass from the overpowered speakers that buzzes in the sub, or if it's the connection.

raine

iTrader: (7)

buzzes? I don't quite understand what's going on there.

The2JZFTW

I feel like the bass produced by the front speakers is felt through the sub, so when you said to lightly feel the sub with my fingertips, I did, and the sub felt like it was just "vibrating" with the bass of the other speakers instead of the bass produced by the sub itself.

raine

iTrader: (7)

Did you unplug the rear speakers when you did this? If not try that so you I now for sure if the rear speakers are what's making the sub vibrate. If the sub still moves (along with the music) with te rear speakers disconnected, then a least you know it's getting some sort of signal. If the sub doesn't move at all then you either have a bad sub, bad sub amp, or something is up with the connections from the head unit.