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HOW-TO: SC300/SC400 Install Aftermarket Head Unit, OEM Speakers and Sub Working!

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Old 02-02-11, 12:46 PM
  #151  
raine
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Originally Posted by MuGGzyx
I am about to do this and was wondering if any of the "Adapter harnesses" you can get, like through Crutchfield etc, will allow me to avoid all the seat pulling. THEY claim it is a splice/plug and go install as far as the wiring goes but after reading this thread I have my doubts.
I do recall before I wrote this HT up that there are harnesses for Toyota's that fit the plugs in the SC, but some of the wires are in different locations; can't say for sure which because at that point after researching around I just decided to figure it out on my own.

You will still need to do some panel/seat pulling anyways to run the extra wires.
Old 02-02-11, 04:22 PM
  #152  
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Originally Posted by MuGGzyx
I am about to do this and was wondering if any of the "Adapter harnesses" you can get, like through Crutchfield etc, will allow me to avoid all the seat pulling. THEY claim it is a splice/plug and go install as far as the wiring goes but after reading this thread I have my doubts.
I purchased the adapters thinking the same thing as you. However, I ended up following Raine's instructions verbatim and it worked flawlessly. I have a 97 w/pioneer and the instructions were spot on. Thanks a bunch Raine.
Old 02-04-11, 02:07 PM
  #153  
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TY so much for the effort and time in writing this thread first of all!

I am about to oder all the crap and just wanted to clarify one thing...

if I buy this...



the main speakers MAY work, but the sub most likely will not?

I am pulling and chucking the CD Changer anyways but would like the sub to work if at all possible. I am just thinking that if the above bracket does NOT cause the sub to work (even though the Crutchfield description specifically states it DOES ) I may just install an aftermarket amp since I have everything torn up anyways.

Thanks again for all the help and insight guys!
Old 02-04-11, 03:51 PM
  #154  
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Originally Posted by Minuet
I purchased the adapters thinking the same thing as you. However, I ended up following Raine's instructions verbatim and it worked flawlessly. I have a 97 w/pioneer and the instructions were spot on. Thanks a bunch Raine.
Thanks for confirming it works with 97 models =)


Originally Posted by MuGGzyx
TY so much for the effort and time in writing this thread first of all!

I am about to oder all the crap and just wanted to clarify one thing...

if I buy this...



the main speakers MAY work, but the sub most likely will not?

I am pulling and chucking the CD Changer anyways but would like the sub to work if at all possible. I am just thinking that if the above bracket does NOT cause the sub to work (even though the Crutchfield description specifically states it DOES ) I may just install an aftermarket amp since I have everything torn up anyways.

Thanks again for all the help and insight guys!
Weird part is, you have to splice into two harnesses. That Crutchfield one is just one...
Old 02-04-11, 08:31 PM
  #155  
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Ok, in all honesty, since I have to tear everything up anyways, and I already have a nice 5 channel amp with a sub crossover built in, would I be better off just going all the way to using the aftermarket amp? If you had all the stuff anyways would you?

The only reason I was planning on sticking with the OEM stuff was to save me the trouble of snaking all the wires and such but it looks like I will be 80% there anyways so whats a few more wires....
Old 02-05-11, 05:21 PM
  #156  
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Originally Posted by MuGGzyx
Ok, in all honesty, since I have to tear everything up anyways, and I already have a nice 5 channel amp with a sub crossover built in, would I be better off just going all the way to using the aftermarket amp? If you had all the stuff anyways would you?

The only reason I was planning on sticking with the OEM stuff was to save me the trouble of snaking all the wires and such but it looks like I will be 80% there anyways so whats a few more wires....
hmm... I suppose you could install the aftermarket 5ch. amp in the trunk, splicing to the main speakers at the OEM main amp point, but you would still have to get the audio signal from the head unit to the aftermarket amp - unless your aftermarket amp has speaker level inputs.

You could follow the how-to as a guide to run RCA's from the aftermarket head unit to the trunk instead of the speaker wires though
Old 02-09-11, 01:44 PM
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okay, so i used the harness for our car at first and the overall sound was where i wanted it to be, but the only thing i could figure out how to get rid of was that awful whining sound, i wired it following the instructions hear and now my speakers sound like ******. and my radio turns off and back on when i put it at a high volume now also.
help me please?? lol
Old 02-09-11, 02:01 PM
  #158  
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Originally Posted by kpkim01
okay, so i used the harness for our car at first and the overall sound was where i wanted it to be, but the only thing i could figure out how to get rid of was that awful whining sound, i wired it following the instructions hear and now my speakers sound like ******. and my radio turns off and back on when i put it at a high volume now also.
help me please?? lol
Well you started with the harness that does NOT work with the SC300 straight up, which we've covered in this thread a few posts back... after that you say you wired it like shown here - are you absolutely sure everything matches up? You may have crossed something or mixed up some wires since you didn't start from step 1 here instead of fiddling with that harness
Old 02-11-11, 08:03 PM
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would wiring the stocker speakers incorrectly have somthing to do with my problem? like say wiring the + to - instead of + to + and - to -
Old 02-13-11, 06:59 PM
  #160  
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Originally Posted by raine
Output-Harness (F-Harness):
10-pin plug with 10 wires, 4 on top and 6 on the bottom, as shown below:



F-Harness Wire Color Guide
F1 teal green
F2 pink with silver dots
F3 red with silver dots
F4 white
F5 blue
F6 purple with silver dots
F7 brown with silver dots
F8 black with silver dots
F9 yellow with silver dots
F10 blue with yellow stripe and silver dots

Here are the wires in the plug, and what to connect from your extended speaker wires:

F-Harness Connections (pin to extended speaker wires)
Front Speakers
F2 – goes to FL positive (front/left speaker +)
F6 – goes to FL negative (front/left speaker - )

F1 – goes to FR positive (front/right speaker +)
F5 – goes to FR negative (front/right speaker - )

Rear Speakers
F9 – goes to RL negative (rear/left speaker - )
F8 – goes to RL positive (rear/left speaker + )

F4 – goes to RR negative (rear/right speaker -)
F3 – goes to RR positive (rear/right speaker +)
Can you tell me which wire on the OEM Amp Harness is the Ground? I see a Brown /w Silver Spots wire that seems to be on both the CD Changer and OEM Amp harness and looks alot like one marked as "Brown Thin" on the head unit harness. I am trying to get around the alternator whine and was thinking if I went to the ground that everything else in the car was already using it might help the issue.
Old 02-28-11, 03:40 PM
  #161  
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Thumbs up good thread

hey guys so i used this thread to get my new deck set up with the factory sub and amp. its an old thread and its still helping. i used the metra harness to get power to the deck however just like everyone else i found that using the rca plugs from this harness produced bad alternator whine. so i opted to run new speaker wires from head unit to speakers. eliminating the whine. and well the deck has a better amp anyway. but what really helped was knowing the two pins for the sub amp input. i used an rca to speaker wire and i tapped into the black and white wires on the factory harness using tap splice connectors. this kept me from destroying the factory harness! my new pioneer deck has sub outputs you only use one channel to feed the amp. the results were pretty good for 14 year old speakers. the new deck blows the stock one out of the water for sound and functionality well worth the time spent.this is the start of going full aftermarket sounds however my budget wouldnt allow me to invest in speakers and amps just yet so this is a great temporary solution for us broke people.i have read on here a few times that people think its impossible to get good sound in an sc well that imo is wrong. with todays equipment its all good. plans for the system are to replace all the speakers and have a single 5 channel amp. i am going to use the factory sub location with a custom fiberglass enclosure. and do a ton of sound dampening. wow this car is not insulated worth a crap. my biggest complaint so far about the sc300 is road noise and the cheap door panels which i am working on all the time to fix. i am new to the forum and found good help here. so to return the favor look out for my tutorial on replacing factory speaker grill cloth and reinforcing/repairing door panels. i have found a few good tricks for the door panels i would like to share.
Old 02-28-11, 03:41 PM
  #162  
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it's not that old of a thread. =P
Old 02-28-11, 11:33 PM
  #163  
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Default noob!

oops i guess i didnt understand the dates. lol i just joined after lurking here for a few months once in while looking for tips. happy about this forum i love when i own a car that gets its own forum. so much good info and like minded people.the sc has been a long time "i wish i had one" car for me.. now i have a black 96 sc300 it came with decent wheels and a custom leather job on the seats. i have done some major tuneup work so far including replacing the factory hormonic balancer with an ati super damper. my first upgradejust got done with the head unit. this car begs for audio! and a whole lot of sound dampening. and some reinforcement in the interior.
Old 03-27-11, 11:02 AM
  #164  
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First of all thanks for making this thread!

Second I am am wanting to know if your head unit that was installed had separate lines for power antenna and P.Cont(external amp) ?

This is a problem for me because the head unit I am installing has both Ant. and P. Cont on the same line, so placing A1/A8 together I am assuming will keep my antenna up all the time because power is always on that line.
Old 03-27-11, 01:48 PM
  #165  
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Originally Posted by 93SCme
First of all thanks for making this thread!

Second I am am wanting to know if your head unit that was installed had separate lines for power antenna and P.Cont(external amp) ?

This is a problem for me because the head unit I am installing has both Ant. and P. Cont on the same line, so placing A1/A8 together I am assuming will keep my antenna up all the time because power is always on that line.
Yes, the head unit I installed has separate Antenna and P.Cont wires.


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