Last edit by: IB Advertising
See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:
Browse all: Interior
- How do I Install Aftermarket Amplifier power wire
Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs
Browse all: Interior
HOW-TO: SC300/SC400 Install Aftermarket Head Unit, OEM Speakers and Sub Working!
#151
I am about to do this and was wondering if any of the "Adapter harnesses" you can get, like through Crutchfield etc, will allow me to avoid all the seat pulling. THEY claim it is a splice/plug and go install as far as the wiring goes but after reading this thread I have my doubts.
You will still need to do some panel/seat pulling anyways to run the extra wires.
#152
I am about to do this and was wondering if any of the "Adapter harnesses" you can get, like through Crutchfield etc, will allow me to avoid all the seat pulling. THEY claim it is a splice/plug and go install as far as the wiring goes but after reading this thread I have my doubts.
#153
TY so much for the effort and time in writing this thread first of all!
I am about to oder all the crap and just wanted to clarify one thing...
if I buy this...
the main speakers MAY work, but the sub most likely will not?
I am pulling and chucking the CD Changer anyways but would like the sub to work if at all possible. I am just thinking that if the above bracket does NOT cause the sub to work (even though the Crutchfield description specifically states it DOES ) I may just install an aftermarket amp since I have everything torn up anyways.
Thanks again for all the help and insight guys!
I am about to oder all the crap and just wanted to clarify one thing...
if I buy this...
the main speakers MAY work, but the sub most likely will not?
I am pulling and chucking the CD Changer anyways but would like the sub to work if at all possible. I am just thinking that if the above bracket does NOT cause the sub to work (even though the Crutchfield description specifically states it DOES ) I may just install an aftermarket amp since I have everything torn up anyways.
Thanks again for all the help and insight guys!
#154
TY so much for the effort and time in writing this thread first of all!
I am about to oder all the crap and just wanted to clarify one thing...
if I buy this...
the main speakers MAY work, but the sub most likely will not?
I am pulling and chucking the CD Changer anyways but would like the sub to work if at all possible. I am just thinking that if the above bracket does NOT cause the sub to work (even though the Crutchfield description specifically states it DOES ) I may just install an aftermarket amp since I have everything torn up anyways.
Thanks again for all the help and insight guys!
I am about to oder all the crap and just wanted to clarify one thing...
if I buy this...
the main speakers MAY work, but the sub most likely will not?
I am pulling and chucking the CD Changer anyways but would like the sub to work if at all possible. I am just thinking that if the above bracket does NOT cause the sub to work (even though the Crutchfield description specifically states it DOES ) I may just install an aftermarket amp since I have everything torn up anyways.
Thanks again for all the help and insight guys!
#155
Ok, in all honesty, since I have to tear everything up anyways, and I already have a nice 5 channel amp with a sub crossover built in, would I be better off just going all the way to using the aftermarket amp? If you had all the stuff anyways would you?
The only reason I was planning on sticking with the OEM stuff was to save me the trouble of snaking all the wires and such but it looks like I will be 80% there anyways so whats a few more wires....
The only reason I was planning on sticking with the OEM stuff was to save me the trouble of snaking all the wires and such but it looks like I will be 80% there anyways so whats a few more wires....
#156
Ok, in all honesty, since I have to tear everything up anyways, and I already have a nice 5 channel amp with a sub crossover built in, would I be better off just going all the way to using the aftermarket amp? If you had all the stuff anyways would you?
The only reason I was planning on sticking with the OEM stuff was to save me the trouble of snaking all the wires and such but it looks like I will be 80% there anyways so whats a few more wires....
The only reason I was planning on sticking with the OEM stuff was to save me the trouble of snaking all the wires and such but it looks like I will be 80% there anyways so whats a few more wires....
You could follow the how-to as a guide to run RCA's from the aftermarket head unit to the trunk instead of the speaker wires though
#157
Lead Lap
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: MA
Posts: 631
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
okay, so i used the harness for our car at first and the overall sound was where i wanted it to be, but the only thing i could figure out how to get rid of was that awful whining sound, i wired it following the instructions hear and now my speakers sound like ******. and my radio turns off and back on when i put it at a high volume now also.
help me please?? lol
help me please?? lol
#158
okay, so i used the harness for our car at first and the overall sound was where i wanted it to be, but the only thing i could figure out how to get rid of was that awful whining sound, i wired it following the instructions hear and now my speakers sound like ******. and my radio turns off and back on when i put it at a high volume now also.
help me please?? lol
help me please?? lol
#160
Output-Harness (F-Harness):
10-pin plug with 10 wires, 4 on top and 6 on the bottom, as shown below:
F-Harness Wire Color Guide
F1 teal green
F2 pink with silver dots
F3 red with silver dots
F4 white
F5 blue
F6 purple with silver dots
F7 brown with silver dots
F8 black with silver dots
F9 yellow with silver dots
F10 blue with yellow stripe and silver dots
Here are the wires in the plug, and what to connect from your extended speaker wires:
F-Harness Connections (pin to extended speaker wires)
Front Speakers
F2 – goes to FL positive (front/left speaker +)
F6 – goes to FL negative (front/left speaker - )
F1 – goes to FR positive (front/right speaker +)
F5 – goes to FR negative (front/right speaker - )
Rear Speakers
F9 – goes to RL negative (rear/left speaker - )
F8 – goes to RL positive (rear/left speaker + )
F4 – goes to RR negative (rear/right speaker -)
F3 – goes to RR positive (rear/right speaker +)
10-pin plug with 10 wires, 4 on top and 6 on the bottom, as shown below:
F-Harness Wire Color Guide
F1 teal green
F2 pink with silver dots
F3 red with silver dots
F4 white
F5 blue
F6 purple with silver dots
F7 brown with silver dots
F8 black with silver dots
F9 yellow with silver dots
F10 blue with yellow stripe and silver dots
Here are the wires in the plug, and what to connect from your extended speaker wires:
F-Harness Connections (pin to extended speaker wires)
Front Speakers
F2 – goes to FL positive (front/left speaker +)
F6 – goes to FL negative (front/left speaker - )
F1 – goes to FR positive (front/right speaker +)
F5 – goes to FR negative (front/right speaker - )
Rear Speakers
F9 – goes to RL negative (rear/left speaker - )
F8 – goes to RL positive (rear/left speaker + )
F4 – goes to RR negative (rear/right speaker -)
F3 – goes to RR positive (rear/right speaker +)
#161
good thread
hey guys so i used this thread to get my new deck set up with the factory sub and amp. its an old thread and its still helping. i used the metra harness to get power to the deck however just like everyone else i found that using the rca plugs from this harness produced bad alternator whine. so i opted to run new speaker wires from head unit to speakers. eliminating the whine. and well the deck has a better amp anyway. but what really helped was knowing the two pins for the sub amp input. i used an rca to speaker wire and i tapped into the black and white wires on the factory harness using tap splice connectors. this kept me from destroying the factory harness! my new pioneer deck has sub outputs you only use one channel to feed the amp. the results were pretty good for 14 year old speakers. the new deck blows the stock one out of the water for sound and functionality well worth the time spent.this is the start of going full aftermarket sounds however my budget wouldnt allow me to invest in speakers and amps just yet so this is a great temporary solution for us broke people.i have read on here a few times that people think its impossible to get good sound in an sc well that imo is wrong. with todays equipment its all good. plans for the system are to replace all the speakers and have a single 5 channel amp. i am going to use the factory sub location with a custom fiberglass enclosure. and do a ton of sound dampening. wow this car is not insulated worth a crap. my biggest complaint so far about the sc300 is road noise and the cheap door panels which i am working on all the time to fix. i am new to the forum and found good help here. so to return the favor look out for my tutorial on replacing factory speaker grill cloth and reinforcing/repairing door panels. i have found a few good tricks for the door panels i would like to share.
#163
noob!
oops i guess i didnt understand the dates. lol i just joined after lurking here for a few months once in while looking for tips. happy about this forum i love when i own a car that gets its own forum. so much good info and like minded people.the sc has been a long time "i wish i had one" car for me.. now i have a black 96 sc300 it came with decent wheels and a custom leather job on the seats. i have done some major tuneup work so far including replacing the factory hormonic balancer with an ati super damper. my first upgradejust got done with the head unit. this car begs for audio! and a whole lot of sound dampening. and some reinforcement in the interior.
#164
First of all thanks for making this thread!
Second I am am wanting to know if your head unit that was installed had separate lines for power antenna and P.Cont(external amp) ?
This is a problem for me because the head unit I am installing has both Ant. and P. Cont on the same line, so placing A1/A8 together I am assuming will keep my antenna up all the time because power is always on that line.
Second I am am wanting to know if your head unit that was installed had separate lines for power antenna and P.Cont(external amp) ?
This is a problem for me because the head unit I am installing has both Ant. and P. Cont on the same line, so placing A1/A8 together I am assuming will keep my antenna up all the time because power is always on that line.
#165
First of all thanks for making this thread!
Second I am am wanting to know if your head unit that was installed had separate lines for power antenna and P.Cont(external amp) ?
This is a problem for me because the head unit I am installing has both Ant. and P. Cont on the same line, so placing A1/A8 together I am assuming will keep my antenna up all the time because power is always on that line.
Second I am am wanting to know if your head unit that was installed had separate lines for power antenna and P.Cont(external amp) ?
This is a problem for me because the head unit I am installing has both Ant. and P. Cont on the same line, so placing A1/A8 together I am assuming will keep my antenna up all the time because power is always on that line.