So after riding around in my friends Jetta today with his 12'' Type X, I realize that i need some more bass in the Lex.
Ive been thinking of a couple diffrent setups..

Getting the FI BL 12 Need help on the Amp...

Kicker zx1000, zx750...

Opnions on decent yet not expensive amps..

 

i'm gonna sell my 12 inch type r for a 12 inch type x...i'm only gonna run 650 watts though

 

What amp you going to hook the 12 type x to?
it is an amazing sub.
one of my friends has 2 12 type r's and they cant even compare to the type x.. Its a f'n beast. good choice man.

 

Any advice on the 10 type X its on ebay for 205 shipped..
maby i could do something like this:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/lex...nd-gen-gs.html
I hate how the 2gs doesnt have a pass through

Edit: price of a 10w6v2 on ebay is about 250 shipped..
Im leaning tword the type x
Probably sealed. because they need some pretty big boxes..

 

i think it depends on what you listen to and what you want from a system. some people might say to go with 3-4 10's. or a more conventional 2 12's. for me personally i like a lot of bass and i like it to boom. so i am running two 12inch fosgate P3's with a fosgate p 1001.1 BD amp.

 

Well I also Like alot of bass but i dont really want more than one sub.
I was actually looking at the Rockford T1's they seem pretty nice..

 

i agree the RF T1,T2,T3 are nice if you want a lot of bass, and are willing to sacrrifice a bit on sound quality. if you want that trunk rattling bass where your neighbors can hear it down the street the RF power series subs or other similar subs i say go for it. otherwise why not go for something like the P3 or something similar where it can push when needed and still sounds good when not on full power.

 

FI BL 12 or 15 w/ sundown SAZ-1500D hehe :] or thats what im going to do. tune the box to 30hz with 4cu of air

 

im just running an alpine MRP-650 monoblock amp 650 watts rms at 2 ohms which is what im gonna run the type x at

 

Or you could go with a pair of 12's in the same space that a regular ported 12 takes up. I've got twin 12's in the spare tire well of my SC400 and it provides more than enough output while sounding great. Just one of the many benefits of using a driver specially designed for small sealed enclosures.

For ample output without taking up too much space you'll want to look for a driver that is geared towards small sealed enclosures - not big ported boxes. A "less efficient" driver in a small sealed box will provide more output than a more "efficient" woofer will. For more clarification on why, read this. Check for mounting depth too - a driver that is 8" deep isn't going to be very install friendly if you don't want to take up a lot of trunk space.

 

Not sure what kind of enclosure you're running, but with 2 12" subs and that amp, you should be doing far, FAR more than 122.5 dB. That's not even going to get you the minimum points for an SQ car if you were to compete (you have to be able to hit at least 130dB). I was running 2 12" subs in a sealed enclosure on just over 400 watts and was hitting over 138 dB. That car did not have a trunk pass through, either, so it wasn't a one note wonder blowing through the ski hole.

Big Mack

 

650w seems kind of low for a type x.. RMS is about 1000w

I really just want one sub in the trunk not two.
Ive been thinking about a 13.5 w6v2
Anyone ever heard these?

 

It's logarithmic - that extra 350W might translate to about 1 dB of output. In other words, it's not going to be noticeable. A doubling of power is only good for 3dB, which is barely noticeable.

I've heard every sub in the W6 line, and they're all competent. I'm sure if you put that sub in the car, you'd be happy with the output. Smaller subs don't do it for me unless it's a very small area or an exotic enclosure that really couples well with the vehicle.

Big Mack

 

I wish!
They need some giant boxes that 15 needs 4cuft. but im trying to talk myself into it..at least the 12..

If i had a GX,LX or RX id be getting the BTL!

 

Here's a good bit about extra power that you can use over and over again to see what kind of (if any) additional output you'll gain by adding a few hundred watts when you're talking in thousands. The following post is about the difference between 750 watts and 500 watts:

"Open your Windows calculator (or Mac, or Linux).

Type 750 / 500. You get 1.5 right? Now press the "log" button, you get 0.17.

Now press * 10 - you get 1.7. There is 1.7 dB difference between those two amps. A level that you'll go "I think I hear it"... Get to 3 dB and you'll know there's a volume difference, but it won't be much. Get to 8 to 10 dB and you'll hear it as twice as loud.

Bottom line, unless you're talking about a ratio of 2 or more in terms of power, it's really not an issue. Go with the smaller amp (you'll have the same sonics), save the cash, space, weight, and power draw."

And unless you really want to give up your entire trunk I'd steer clear of any 2.5+ ft^3 ported enclosure drivers. By the time you're done with the install you're going to have a box that's at least 3 ft^3 without considering the height and depth and displacement of the woofer. Also keep in mind that we have trunk cars - they're less susceptible to huge gains in the SPL department, unlike hatchbacks.

Also, don't mistake RMS power handling for a power requirement. The two terms are completely different. You don't need to send the driver in question the maximum RMS power handling rating in order for it to perform well. Choosing the right subwoofer is a lot like choosing the right engine for a chassis - it's all about balance and your goals.