Subs "popping" when driven hard
I have a pair of jl 10w6 v1 and after replacing the surround (foam piece) the subs never sounded the same again. At low to moderate volume they sound ok but when I turn it up you can hear the popping when the cone moves out. You can't hear the popping inside the car though. Right now I only have 125w going to each but I'll be getting a 1200w mono amp soon and I'm almost sure that's going to destroy them.
Was your re-foam job from a reputable place? The surround may be too pliable and allow the cone to move more freely. Basically, you changed the qms of the speaker.
The popping is more than likely the voice coil slapping into the back plate or the triple joint hitting the top plate. Either way it is not good and you are going to destroy the subs soon. Or you are severly clipping your amp and it is audible. Enough of that you will heat your coil to the point of melting.
What size enclosure do you have them installed in? Ported or sealed? If ported, what's your tuning frquency? If ported, what's your sub-sonic filter set at? Are you running any loudness or bass boost?
-Robert
The popping is more than likely the voice coil slapping into the back plate or the triple joint hitting the top plate. Either way it is not good and you are going to destroy the subs soon. Or you are severly clipping your amp and it is audible. Enough of that you will heat your coil to the point of melting.
What size enclosure do you have them installed in? Ported or sealed? If ported, what's your tuning frquency? If ported, what's your sub-sonic filter set at? Are you running any loudness or bass boost?
-Robert
I repaired the subs myself with a surround repair kit found on ebay. Kit said it was for jl subs but from the feel and texture of the foam I'm pretty sure they aren't original jl w6 surrounds. But for $30 I thought it wouldn't matter much. They're in the original sealed box but worked fine before the refoam job.
We're getting somewhere now. When you put the drivers back into the box, did you make sure that you created an air-tight seal between the driver and the box? In a sealed sub, any air leaks will allow the sub to move farther than designed (when pushing enough power). Also, air rushing though a small leak can make strange noises. Tighten it down again. Feel around the driver frame from air blasts. Best, get some closed cell weather stripping from Home Depot and use it to make a good seal between the driver and the box.
If all of this fails, then your refoam job is to blame. Not your fault but the surround supplier should have let you know that the mechanical parameters would change.
-Robert
If all of this fails, then your refoam job is to blame. Not your fault but the surround supplier should have let you know that the mechanical parameters would change.
-Robert
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