i got a sc400, i really like the stock look and want to keep it that way since my 12 disc cd changer works great and everything, all i want to do is add a 10" sub in the trunk with an amp, i got a 10" pioneer and an orion amp pushing 400 watts, is there any way to add it to the stock system??? i just want a little more bass, i was thinking of changing the stock sub with something else, but will it give me good bass, i just want to be able to have good bass inside, i dont care if outside cant hear it.

 

you need an output convertor

 

so how do i hook it up???

 

splice rear speaker wires. connect to hi to lo converter. the hi lo takes speaker level inputs and the outputs are RCA. Connect RCA from hi lo to amp.

be careful when setting the gain controls on the hi-lo. you want to avoid clipping and popping.

also, you want to get a hi lo that has a remote output to signal your amp/amps to turn on. This will help you avoid having to pull out the deck or splice your ignition wires.

but really...go pay for the install. When using a hi lo its hard to get a really good sound without tuning the gain levels using a volt meter. $100 install will get you better sound and less chance of speaker damage.

 

Nope--

You want to either tap into the low level signals to the sub amp in the rear deck or tap into the speaker level outputs (at the actual stock woofer) and use a line output converter--

The rear speakers are crossed over from the head unit and you don't want that signal as there is no bass in it-- which would defeat your purpose--
Crossed over means the head unit filters out the bass to keep from damaging the rear speakers-- so all they play is mids--

The easiest way to integrate a sub would be to tap the speaker level at the sub with a line output converter-- you want to remove the stock sub to let the air through--

BUT-- If I had that much power I would install a good quality freeair sub in the rear deck -- like one of these slim 10" subs from Elemental Designs--

 

if you are unsure about what your are doing better go pay someone to profesionaly install it. its possible to hook that all up to the factory radio though

 

You can have a look at the wiring procedure I used to add a sub amp in my GS. Pretty straightforward. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=272881 As others have mentioned, if the amp cannot directly accept the speaker signals, then the resistive divider (converter) will be needed to drop the level into the line inputs.

 

i can do it now cause of all your guyzez help, i've always installed my own amp and subs, but i've never had a high class car with this kind of system, i'll post pics of the finished products and everything, thanks again guys.

 

I might pick one of those up myself....thanks for the advice bro

 

What would really be cool is building up a fiberglass baffle that connects to the bottom of the oem sub hole and then offsets a pair of these slim 10's at an angle to where they both fire through the hole, operate standard IB, and still clear the gas tank and remain invisible behind the "pretty panel" that hides the gas tank--

That would be slick, and pretty easy with some good rings and wire mesh--

(you'd need the fiberglass probably too )

 

Hey MJHSC400,

I am looking to replace my factory sub with a aftermarket one, I found a free air sub that kenwood sales, but I was wondering if this would hit the gas tank?
Also, do you recommend a different one if it does not fit?

Link for sub:
http://www.justkenwood.co.uk/speakers01/kfcw2511.asp

Sorry, to hijack the thread

-nick

 

Welcome to 14 years ago. The Coustic Bass Pump was a great idea. The mechanical forces from the two subs are cancelled out so the vibrations should be at a minimum. The same concept is used in home theater IB installs as well. Twelve Shiva's Dancing was one of the first to use this type of manifold.

-Robert

 

Robert J--

Your collaboration is always enlightening--

I thought myself that this type of horn~ configuration would add damping to the total Q of the woofers-- or maybe affect the vas-- one of those or both--

But it would add a bit of suspension as well as enable you to run a great sounding pair of woofers that would inevitably make some very decent yet well articulated output--

I fully concur!

 

So -- what we have is an enclosure with an F3 of 15hz-- not low enough--

BTW-- That coustic basspump is EXACTLY what I'm talking about-- though it would need to be more snug against the deck--

Heck-- The proper effect could be achieved with mdf alone if built right--

I like the idea-- I just might have to do it --

THOUGH-- I may modify the design to accomodate a single 12" woofer since I've got all this unused amplifier in the trunk--

It could basically just divert the mounting location of the woofer to one side, and use most of the vol. between the tank and rear deck for the horn itself--

 

I have to do something to keep myself amused during the workday.

As long as the opening of the manifold is as large as the combined sd of the drivers, it has no effect on them. In the home IB's, a lot of people have gone smaller on the manifold opening without any loss of sound quality. Now, that doesn't mean you can do this through a 2" opening. Then that's just a fart cannon.

Yes. You would need that if you were using larger subs like the pair that FedEx delivered to me today - link.

Now you are losing the the most important aspect of the manifold design - the subs cancelling out each other's mechanical forces. With oposing pairs, you have no extra vibrations. Just sound.

There are some that have an F3 in the single digits. They can reproduce the concussion of the cannons in "Master and Commander". The only thing better is the Thigpen Rotary Woofer.

-Robert