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Thinking of upgrading sub in 01 GS300 for higher SQ

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Old 07-06-06, 11:20 AM
  #31  
AZ-GS300
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Originally Posted by GSteg
In most cases, a high quality LLC should be able to handle the output of most, if not all headunits of today. You should only be concerned with the LLC's input if you plan to place the LLC after the stock amp. If you place it before the amp, but after the deck, the LLC will handle it, and most likely reduce distortion since the stock amp induces distortion. Actually, anything after the headunit will induce distortion, but who knows if it's audible
Of an aftermarket unit, that is true. Of the stock GS models, the amplifier receives low level outputs already. An LLC is really only needed to convert the wires to RCA jacks. Or, you could do that yourself without an LLC. On the base Pioneer models, the amplifier only receives left and right audio signals. The amplifier is the portion that contains all the signal processing information and has the actual fader function built into it. Not sure if the Nakamichi or NAV systems are the same way. But since he has to grab the sub signal, he's going to be grabbing an amplified signal. How many watts are the stock amplifiers?
Old 07-06-06, 04:54 PM
  #32  
engin_ear
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Like I said before, REMOVE your stock sub completely. It serves no purpose now, other than to screw up the sound. Use as planter for potted plants.
You need a port to the cabin.
Old 07-06-06, 05:27 PM
  #33  
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great

thanx a lot for all the info guys
that really cleared things up for me and i now know what i have to do

im still in the process of getting a sub and amp right now
was gonna meet with this guy locally to check out his alpine type-R but he hasnt been replying my emails lately so i dont know whats happened to him and probably should start looking else where now

ill have to try to find infinity kappa perfect 10" used here locally now too
Old 07-06-06, 05:37 PM
  #34  
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All GS amplifiers receives Front, rear, left, and right signals. Otherwise, the front and rear speakers will be synchronized, and there wont be a "fade" option. The fader is actually in the headunit itself. It would make no sense to put the fader in the amp because that would be more work to do something simple. When you fade on the headunit, the headunit reduces the output voltage of the selected side (front/rear). Trust me. I've cracked open the pioneer deck and amp before. the amp is just like any other amp, a voltage multiplier All the signal processing is done at the headunit as the amp has no D/A convertors. The amp is basically analog-to-analog so no processing is done, just voltage multipluing

My suggestion of putting it before the amp is merely because of power reason along. Put it before the amp and you wouldn't have to worry about the LLC's power handling.
Old 07-06-06, 07:54 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by GSteg
All GS amplifiers receives Front, rear, left, and right signals. Otherwise, the front and rear speakers will be synchronized, and there wont be a "fade" option. The fader is actually in the headunit itself. It would make no sense to put the fader in the amp because that would be more work to do something simple. When you fade on the headunit, the headunit reduces the output voltage of the selected side (front/rear). Trust me. I've cracked open the pioneer deck and amp before. the amp is just like any other amp, a voltage multiplier All the signal processing is done at the headunit as the amp has no D/A convertors. The amp is basically analog-to-analog so no processing is done, just voltage multipluing
One more time. IT DEPENDS ON WHICH STEREO YOU HAVE. I have both the Pioneer (with and without NAV) and the Nakamichi wiring diagrams for the 2000 GS models. I was able to successfully use the Pioneer diagrams for the install in my 98 GS300. It is VERY clear in the Pioneer models that the audio signals from the stereo to the amplifier are left and right only. There are no front and rear signals. This means all signal processing (including stripping out the bass only signals) are done in the amplifier/signal processor. Feel free to download and read these PDF files that I was sent and found.
http://www.paulhillmaniii.com/GS300/radio.pio.pdf
http://www.paulhillmaniii.com/GS300/radio.nak.pdf
Originally Posted by GSteg
My suggestion of putting it before the amp is merely because of power reason along. Put it before the amp and you wouldn't have to worry about the LLC's power handling.
If that were the only concern, that would be fine. But then you have the full range of sound going into your sub (unless you have some filter built in). Also, which levels do you pull the signal from? The front or the rear? If you pull the signals from the rear speakers, and then fade all to the front, you no longer have any bass. If you pull signals from the front speakers and then fade all to the rear, you again have no bass. IMO, simplest is to just pull the signals from the wires that would have connected to the woofer to begin with. Then, you have just your bass signals and no other signal processing is required.
Old 07-06-06, 09:40 PM
  #36  
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Take a look at the BUS+/BUS- on the diagram. That's the serial bus for the digital I/O. All the tuning is done at the headunit. The amp gets attenuated from the deck, hence only one single BUS+ from the deck to control the tuning.

And yes, I stand corrected as it appears the deck does indeed output Left and Right signals, but the tuning is done at the deck. The amp just reduces output when the headunit tells it to, in the same mannor as an aftermarket deck reducing the output at the internal amp/RCAs.

I'm done with this topic as it's not any concern of the original poster.

Originally Posted by UberNoob
great

thanx a lot for all the info guys
that really cleared things up for me and i now know what i have to do

im still in the process of getting a sub and amp right now
was gonna meet with this guy locally to check out his alpine type-R but he hasnt been replying my emails lately so i dont know whats happened to him and probably should start looking else where now

ill have to try to find infinity kappa perfect 10" used here locally now too
Have you tried considering the 12" Image Dynamics IDv2? They're on sale right now for $95 shipped. The regular price is $160+ shipping so this is an awesome deal. I'm sure engin_ear, retrodrive, percy, etc can chime in on how great image dynamic products are. Not to mention you get warranty.

http://www.cardomain.com/item/IDSID12V3D4
http://www.cardomain.com/item/IDSID12V3D2
Old 07-06-06, 10:24 PM
  #37  
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ok ok ill take the stock sub out
hehe

is there any easier way to take it out other than removing the rear seats to get to the rear deck?
or must go thru all that trouble?
http://lexusmodz.netfirms.com/GS_DIY/rear_deck/
looks painful...
hehe

i dont think i want to go with a 12" though as much as im tempted

i know IDQ makes some good SQ stuff
but i really prefer to stay with 10" and since i bought a box for 10" already too, might as well

and will probably get killed by canadian customs on stuff shipped from the states
Old 07-07-06, 09:59 AM
  #38  
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You'll have to remove the back seat and rear deck to get access to the stock sub.That is of course, if you rather use a plasma cutter

It's not as a painful as it looks. There's only about 6 bolts you need to remove from the back seat. The rest is just putting the rear deck out.
Old 07-07-06, 02:05 PM
  #39  
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alright ill give it a try when im all ready to go

ive got some blue LED lights for computer from sunbeam, im gonna also see if i can do some lighting work around the box when i start to work on it

too bad cardomain doesnt have 10" IDQs for under $100
that would be something nice, low power requirement for SQ setup

ill keep looking around and ive asked my friend to find me used stuff too and he asked me if if im ok with blackmarket stuff, i said i dont really care as long as its cheap and good
hehehe
Old 07-12-06, 06:57 PM
  #40  
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im having a lot of troubles finding IDQ 10"s anywhere
especially in canada
this is so frustrating
Old 07-12-06, 09:41 PM
  #41  
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That's because Image Dynamics just moved to their new location so they stopped production of the IDQ and IDv3. Once they get everything moved, i'm sure they'll start production again.

I may be able to find you an IDQ/IDv3. Just give me some time

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Last edited by GSteg; 07-12-06 at 09:45 PM.
Old 07-13-06, 05:30 PM
  #42  
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woot thanx, just a note, i dont really want to spend too much on a sub
no more than around $100 USD for an used one if possible

u guys are awesome, helped me so much

if u guys ever come up here to vancouver, canada, ill take u all to a detailed tour of the city and go have some fun
Old 07-16-06, 02:48 PM
  #43  
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hey ubernoob....i just replaced my stock sub today....it was pretty painless....the grunt work was taking the rear seat/deck out....i dropped in a kicker c10 (bought it brand new for $50 online) and it sounds 100x better than stock....got a separate amp powering the sub too....check out my post
Old 07-17-06, 11:02 AM
  #44  
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nice
but you are probably looking for SPL and more deep bass sound eh

ive tracked down a Soundstream SS10 used for sale on vancouver craiglist
$90 for the driver and i might be able to get an alpine MRP-M200 to power it

this is looking good

anyone know what the SS10's specs are so i know whats the best volume i need for a sealed enclosure

i havent found a good guide on how to wire the LLC to the stock amp yet
my GS300 is a 2001 and has Lexus Premium Sound System (pioneer?) with stock DVD navigation HU
so i guess the amp is still pioneer?
and how would you guys recommend me go about running the power from battery -> fuse -> trunk?
where in the interior of the car should i run it?

thanx alot!!
Old 07-20-06, 04:25 PM
  #45  
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the b@stard that has the SS10 was suppose to meet up with me this weekend but he sold it to someone else

now ill have to look for another sub

someone is selling an ADS A10S
is that a good sub, has anyone heard of it?


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