Ok....i think im going to go shopping for some subs (mabye one 12" or 2 10"s) and the amp(s). My problem is that i have no idea how to wire them to the fact. reciever. I dont know where my friend and i r goin to go, but if they offer free installation, ill go that way, but could someone help me out. I dont want anything fancy right now (just the sub in the box in the trunk type deal) and i think i might take out the stock 10".

 

Well if the amp you buy has speaker level inputs then use that. If it doesn't then you will have to use a loc (line output converter) to tap your speaker wire and get rca outputs.

 

I wouldn't go to a shop that claims "free" installation. You might now have very much of your car interior left after they're done. Most shops charge anywhere between 50 to 125 an hour so expect that as a starting charge. If you and your buddy want to do the install yourself, go to the local Lexus dealership and get a teardown manual. Have them copy the pages for you. The better dealership will do this. Remember to take your time and do it right!

Percy

 

I am actually in the middle of a complete speaker replacement in my GS400. As you can see in these pictures, the back end of the car is basically torn out. Just want to say a quick thanks to you Percy for the instructions. They worked well. Removing those rear panels to get the deck lid out sucked..... But I am just waiting for my new sub to come in so that I can install it. (JL Audio 10ib4) Oh heck, question, will I be able to get a pretty solid hit from this speaker with a Kenwood 150watt amp pushing it? Just curious. I have just finished putting Polk 5.25 in the front with tweeters, and MB Quartz in the rear doors. I am mad that I did not get the Quartz for the front, but oh well..

 

Rear Deck Lid

 

What the he__ I am doing to my car

 

Thanks for the responses guys. If i plan on doing it myself, what would be the easiest components to hook up to eachother (sub to amp, amp to reciever, wires to battery etc)? This is the only area that i am concerned about doing myself.

 

The best way is to plan out everything. Think methodical and don't rush...you're not on a time clock! I'd suggest the install in this order...

Receiver to Line Level Converters (if your amp doesn't have any high to line level converters)
Line level converter outputs to amp input (RCA inputs)
Amp output to sub (speaker wire output)
Power wires (4 guage or larger, depending on how many watts you're pushing)

I list power as being last so nothing is turned on by accident. Always use a fuse for your battery connection! Good luck!

Percy

 

What's that Kenwood rated for? Remember that the IB4 series are all 8 ohm woofers so does the amp make 150 total watts into which impedance? Personally, I'd like to see at least that amount of power going to the woofer, at least in my experience with IB's.

 

Ok guys...Im not sure if this is what Im going to get, but does this sound like it would work. I just need to know if this is the type of stuff i should look for i.e: amp wattage,etc.)
AMP: http://crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/S-JwV...400SXK&o=M&a=1

SUB: http://crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/S-JwV...9LCS1050&o=&a=

 

SC - R U gonna take Crutchfield up on the 2 for 1 offer & use both subs on that Profile amp? If so, I'd say that U're gonna need more power, IMO. The JBL is a 4 ohm sub so if ya run two of them in a 4 ohm stereo load, the Profile will only deliver 100 watts to each sub. Might be enough for normal listening but when U play some serious bass music, I think that the amp won't be up to the task. Now if U plan on running only one sub & the amp bridged, the power will go up to 150 watts ( the 300 watts mono rating is into 2 ohms so halve the power ) & U should be OK. Wouldn't try & parallel two of the JBL's on that amp bridged - it'd be a 1 ohm mono load & haven't seen many Profile amps that lasted under that kind of power demand.

 

Mean Jean.....Thanks for the insight. I guess that i might take them up on the 2 for 1 deal and just keep the second sub until i get some more $$$$$$$. Do u think that that amp would be fairly easy to install by my self, or r all amps pretty much the same?

 

SC - Yep, most amp installs R basically the same in terms of wiring configurations. Just follow Percy's steps & even Crutchfield sends installation sheets with their equipment ( should also have one from Profile in the box ). Just an idea - don't know what the rest of your system consists of but could U get the Profile amp now & use it on 1 sub then when cash flow allows, buy a larger amp to drive both woofers & use the Profile somewhere else in your system? Maybe drive a pair of components or mids. Keep this sort of upgrade in mind.

 

98gs4

many props to you d00d. This exactly how my car used to look like a while ago. The wiring could be the hardest thing there was. Al because of that tank at the back. Don't forget to use grommits for wires when you get them through the metal at the back. At the end seal it with Silicon Sealant.

If you have any questions on the install, e-mail me.

 

Just a reminder when tying in the power wires, the fuse goes way up front at the point you actually make contact to the vehicle's positive (+) take off point. A couple of very nasty fires occurred where the installer chose to fuse his wire at the amp and not up front. Fuse it early in the run and the whole wire is protected. Fuse it late in the run and only that portion of wire from the back side of the fuse to the amp is protected. Just a little common sense advice here.