Dyns with stock amps
Percy,
After following the posts in this section I believe your recommendation for Dyns for my GS 430 are:
an MW 190 subwoofer.
1 set of Dynaudio System 240 MK II's for the front doors and
1 set of Dynaudio MW160 7 inch midwoofers for the rear doors
Correct?
However, a few of the recent posts have confused me about whether I need additional amplification to make them work out.
Can I upgrade to these speakers without having to supplement the stock amps?
After following the posts in this section I believe your recommendation for Dyns for my GS 430 are:
an MW 190 subwoofer.
1 set of Dynaudio System 240 MK II's for the front doors and
1 set of Dynaudio MW160 7 inch midwoofers for the rear doors
Correct?
However, a few of the recent posts have confused me about whether I need additional amplification to make them work out.
Can I upgrade to these speakers without having to supplement the stock amps?
Last edited by RealMarty; Apr 25, 2001 at 07:29 PM.
Thanks Percy. Happy to hear that.
My GS430 is not due in until late July. First upgrades will be L-tuned steering and suspension. Next upgrade will be the Dyns.
All it takes is $$.
If I recall my earlier research at some of the web sites mentioned here I think I'm looking at something over a grand for the speakers.
My GS430 is not due in until late July. First upgrades will be L-tuned steering and suspension. Next upgrade will be the Dyns.
All it takes is $$.
If I recall my earlier research at some of the web sites mentioned here I think I'm looking at something over a grand for the speakers.Guest
Posts: n/a
Marty, I assume you are getting the premium system for your 430 (not ML).
Is the stock amp for the GS430 much more powerful than the stock amp for a '98 GS300. If so, what are the specs for each.
In a previous post I asked a similar question about speaker replacement and Gene said the stock amps in my GS300 were not powerful enough to drive the Dynaudios.
Thanks, Tom
Is the stock amp for the GS430 much more powerful than the stock amp for a '98 GS300. If so, what are the specs for each.
In a previous post I asked a similar question about speaker replacement and Gene said the stock amps in my GS300 were not powerful enough to drive the Dynaudios.
Thanks, Tom
Tom,
I am getting the Premium (non-ML) system.
I think the post you got from Gene is the one that confused me and prompted me to ask this question.
So, I guess either Gene and Percy disagree on this or there's been a disconnect somewhere.
Gene. Percy. Can you clarify this for us?
Thanks.
I am getting the Premium (non-ML) system.
I think the post you got from Gene is the one that confused me and prompted me to ask this question.
So, I guess either Gene and Percy disagree on this or there's been a disconnect somewhere.
Gene. Percy. Can you clarify this for us?
Thanks.
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RealMarty,
When you're within three weeks of wanting to do the Dynaudio upgrade, it would probably be in your best interest to let me know. I have a good connection & all of you would DIE if you knew how much I paid for the Dynaudio speakers that I'm waiting on now!! :eek:
:eek:
When you're within three weeks of wanting to do the Dynaudio upgrade, it would probably be in your best interest to let me know. I have a good connection & all of you would DIE if you knew how much I paid for the Dynaudio speakers that I'm waiting on now!! :eek:
:eek:
lexlyf3,
How about I get back to you in August or so? If that won't work, maybe I'll buy the speakers now and just hold them until the car comes in.
Actually, check your pm. I want to learn more about this.
How about I get back to you in August or so? If that won't work, maybe I'll buy the speakers now and just hold them until the car comes in.
Actually, check your pm. I want to learn more about this.
Guest
Posts: n/a
According to Lexus, these are the specs for the '98 GS300 premium system.
215 watts MAX
Fronts: 50 watts each MAX / 20 watts each continuous avg. power (CAP)
Rears: 30 watts each MAX / 15 watts each CAP
Sub: 55 watts MAX / 20 watts CAP
I also spoke with a technician at Dynaudio. He said you can get some tonal improvement and quality improvement using the stock amp. However, they recommend at least 75 watts per channel for their speakers(240 KII components). With the stock amp he said you will get audible distortion and clipping at higher volumes. Wtih a more powerful amp, you will hear "more dynamics, headroom, and a cleaner sound."
He also said that there are not comparable audiophile amps in the car audio segment as in the home audio markets. He said there are several reputable manufacturers but they generally are all using B-grade components. The ones he liked were Macintosh, Xtant (value), Sound Stream, and Precision Power.
Hope this helps some.
Tom
215 watts MAX
Fronts: 50 watts each MAX / 20 watts each continuous avg. power (CAP)
Rears: 30 watts each MAX / 15 watts each CAP
Sub: 55 watts MAX / 20 watts CAP
I also spoke with a technician at Dynaudio. He said you can get some tonal improvement and quality improvement using the stock amp. However, they recommend at least 75 watts per channel for their speakers(240 KII components). With the stock amp he said you will get audible distortion and clipping at higher volumes. Wtih a more powerful amp, you will hear "more dynamics, headroom, and a cleaner sound."
He also said that there are not comparable audiophile amps in the car audio segment as in the home audio markets. He said there are several reputable manufacturers but they generally are all using B-grade components. The ones he liked were Macintosh, Xtant (value), Sound Stream, and Precision Power.
Hope this helps some.
Tom
Guest
Posts: n/a
My installer suggested the best alternative for using the stock amp might be high quality coaxials. They are much more efficient and require less power than components. But obviously, components are much better if they get enough power.
He suggested Diamond coax's. Maybe there are others. But you need to keep the install depth less than 3".
The only drawback he saw to the addition of a new amp was that the line level output and the line level converter that would be needed would create mid to high range frequecy noise. (Although, he said this would not be a problem for the sub, and therfore you could cut in a new amp for just the sub channel and install a quality sub). If the head unit had preamp outs as do most aftermarket units, the frequency noise would not occur. He felt the noise problem may outway the benefit of the amp and components and he believed the best option was coax's.
Something to think about. Any suggestions?
Tom
He suggested Diamond coax's. Maybe there are others. But you need to keep the install depth less than 3".
The only drawback he saw to the addition of a new amp was that the line level output and the line level converter that would be needed would create mid to high range frequecy noise. (Although, he said this would not be a problem for the sub, and therfore you could cut in a new amp for just the sub channel and install a quality sub). If the head unit had preamp outs as do most aftermarket units, the frequency noise would not occur. He felt the noise problem may outway the benefit of the amp and components and he believed the best option was coax's.
Something to think about. Any suggestions?
Tom
Guest
Posts: n/a
I spoke with a Diamond tech this time. His take:
He said the power on the stock amp was not enough to drive their speakers. He said coax's may work, but the improvement would be modest. Most importantly, he said the stock premium system does have preamp outs, but they are difficult to find and require a knowledgeable installer. He said use them and not the line level outs with a converter. He said they are on a plug on the the input side of factory amp which is behind glove box above right kick panel. He said something about pink, purple and brown colored wires.
He suggests the Xtant X604 or X603 4- or 3-channel amp(or minimum 50 watts/ channel). Connect the front channel to all speakers (not sub)(components in front and drivers in rear for "rear fill") using the RAF output on the crossovers for the rear fill drivers. Connect the amp's rear channel to the sub and use the fader on the head unit to adjust the sub level. This is explained in detail on their website (click on a speaker and download the manual via .pdf file)
This sounds like a good setup. To save $$$, their internet site says you can use drivers for the rear fill or coax's or even your factory speakers. It is the front stage that is most important.
Tom
He said the power on the stock amp was not enough to drive their speakers. He said coax's may work, but the improvement would be modest. Most importantly, he said the stock premium system does have preamp outs, but they are difficult to find and require a knowledgeable installer. He said use them and not the line level outs with a converter. He said they are on a plug on the the input side of factory amp which is behind glove box above right kick panel. He said something about pink, purple and brown colored wires.
He suggests the Xtant X604 or X603 4- or 3-channel amp(or minimum 50 watts/ channel). Connect the front channel to all speakers (not sub)(components in front and drivers in rear for "rear fill") using the RAF output on the crossovers for the rear fill drivers. Connect the amp's rear channel to the sub and use the fader on the head unit to adjust the sub level. This is explained in detail on their website (click on a speaker and download the manual via .pdf file)
This sounds like a good setup. To save $$$, their internet site says you can use drivers for the rear fill or coax's or even your factory speakers. It is the front stage that is most important.
Tom
Which technician did you talk to? Dynaudio is only 30 minutes away from me so I know a few of the techs.
215 watts MAX
Fronts: 50 watts each MAX / 20 watts each continuous avg. power (CAP)
Actually this works out to be 35, 21, and 38.5 watts rms respectively per your listings. That's if you use the 1.414/.707 rule.
Rears: 30 watts each MAX / 15 watts each CAP
Sub: 55 watts MAX / 20 watts CAP
I also spoke with a technician at Dynaudio. He said you can get some tonal improvement and quality improvement using the stock amp. However, they recommend at least 75 watts per channel for their speakers(240 KII components). With the stock amp he said you will get audible distortion and clipping at higher volumes. Wtih a more powerful amp, you will hear "more dynamics, headroom, and a cleaner sound."
He also said that there are not comparable audiophile amps in the car audio segment as in the home audio markets. He said there are several reputable manufacturers but they generally are all using B-grade components. The ones he liked were Macintosh, Xtant (value), Sound Stream, and Precision Power.
B grade components is RIGHT! That's why I had mine all modded with better caps, resistors, op amps, etc.
Percy
215 watts MAX
Fronts: 50 watts each MAX / 20 watts each continuous avg. power (CAP)
Actually this works out to be 35, 21, and 38.5 watts rms respectively per your listings. That's if you use the 1.414/.707 rule.
Rears: 30 watts each MAX / 15 watts each CAP
Sub: 55 watts MAX / 20 watts CAP
I also spoke with a technician at Dynaudio. He said you can get some tonal improvement and quality improvement using the stock amp. However, they recommend at least 75 watts per channel for their speakers(240 KII components). With the stock amp he said you will get audible distortion and clipping at higher volumes. Wtih a more powerful amp, you will hear "more dynamics, headroom, and a cleaner sound."
He also said that there are not comparable audiophile amps in the car audio segment as in the home audio markets. He said there are several reputable manufacturers but they generally are all using B-grade components. The ones he liked were Macintosh, Xtant (value), Sound Stream, and Precision Power.
B grade components is RIGHT! That's why I had mine all modded with better caps, resistors, op amps, etc.
Percy






