You are playing with fire. And this is not the place to discuss pirated software.

 

Polo you had the same issue as in the car wouldnt start for you either or had the same error code b2288?

 

After a long time, the battery is dead.
Can charge the battery,
Or replace with a new battery,
I also encountered this problem last time

 

This is exactly correct. What you choose to do is your business, but what we discuss here is monitored by Lexus and pirated Techstream software isn't a topic they will tolerate. The information in this thread is too valuble to others to let it get closed before resolving the problem because we drifted off into pirated software. Let's focus on solving this so those who follow have somewhere to start when they're tearing their hair out.

 

Any updates?

 

Sorry guys. Been busy and haven't had time to work on the issue. Tried tracing the B2288 code and all the remedies to resolve this issue come down to bad wiring, harness, or ecu. I'm no wiring expert by any means so I tried my best and still can't pin point the failure point so I'm most likely going to have it towed to a reputable car electrician I found. Spoke to the guy over the phone and he seems as if he has dealt with this type of issue in the past so im keeping my fingers crossed. I'll keep you guys posted

 

Maybe someone already posted this but it's worth a shot..

Since now you have tried so many times to start the car and touching the brake and you stated the steering is locked.

Have you REALLY tried pressing on the brake HARD and trying to start it?

Also by doing this at the same time to wiggle the steering until it unlocks. (in the ON position)

Make sure your mat is not bunched up blocking it from going a full extent or something too


Oh ya I forgot if it was bogus or not but hang the fob close to the start button on the front dash..

 

Hey guys I have the car back up and running and thought I'd give a little update. Finally after several months of letting the car sit in the garage trying to come up with a diagnoses on my own, I ended up caving and finding a local dealership to tow it too. This specific lexus dealership had several master technicians on site and after learning this I had swung by before booking an appointment to see if i could speak to one of them about my issue. I took the car in knowing it had dtc b2288 (steering lock malfunction) and passed that info along with everything i had done up to that point to diagnose to the technicians. Speaking to the service advisor about cost which was really important to me I advised him that i knew where the issue was coming from and if they could diagnose from that code going forward. After a back and forth with the dealership about cost and diagnoses protocol they ended up finding out the steering ecu needed to be swapped out. The ecu had power going in and out but was not receiving communication signal, so naturally the the next step on tis would be to change the part out and hope it would work. They quoted me 1149.99 cad plus tax just for the part and that it had already taken them 2 hours to diagnose the issue. I asked the service manager to provide me with the part numbers as i would source out my own parts and only use the dealership for labor and calibration. I found that same steering ecu on ebay, shipped to my home, faster than the back order date the dealership could get it by for.. wait for it.. $280 shipped to my house within less than a week from dubai. Dealer installed the new part which took another 2 hours so total of 4 hours labor but car still wouldn't start. After more diagnoses and checking steps on tis I was then told my car would require and new id box and set of keys. 1649.99 is what they quoted for the id box and keys were 350 each. I ended up finding the keys online for $200 each shipped to the house. I could not find the id box as the part number I found online was different to what they had provided me. I told the dealer to order the id box because i had no other choice and hands were tied. Long story short a week after they received all the parts, I got a call that the car was running and to come to the dealership to discuss what is fair so we could settle the bill. Upon arriving I was greeted by the service advisor who in all fairness was a really nice and understanding but who also worked for the steelership. The dealership wanted to charge me for 20 hours of labor plus the parts they provided and tax. They needed to make up for the loss of mark up profit they would have made.on parts. I ended up paying for 10 hours of labor which i only spent about 5 real hours and parts. If i ended up just giving in the dealer would have charged me 1149.99 steering ecu+1649.99 id box +350 x 2 for keys+ 20 hours of labor at $175.99 plus tax. Which would have been over 7k for a problem that no one can explain. I ended up walking out paying just around 3k and im still mad about it but happy to finally have the car back and running. Ps they didnt even hook everything back up properly as my gps antenna wasnt connected back to head unit and car wasn't looked after to well it had new scratched and dings sitting on the dealer lot for over a month

 

Thanks for closure on this. Seems like the Certification ECU is the real culprit here and it really doesn't like low system voltage at all. I'm not sure about why the keys don't work, but I have seen "used" keys unable to be reused once they've been paired to an ECM. It's one of the risks of buying a used key on eBay.

 

They were able to save one of my old keys. The one that would still allow the car to turn into acc mode when the car was having issues starting. I still had purchased 2 new keys tho at that point. Only ended up using one tho. Have the other new key still unopened if anyone is looking to purchase one

 

So the certification ECU is the same thing as the “id box”, and this is the result of allowing the voltage to discharge to a low enough state that it was essentially fried?

 

Glad it got settled. This is good info.