Low Load Knock on SC motor
Checking back in. Tick and knock has seemed to have subsided for the moment. Went through everything I could think of and fixed a few small things including:
-Installed new oem maf
-Re-torqued Crank Hub (was to spec already)
-Re-checked spark plugs, performed cold compression test
-Fuel system cleaner, royal purple
-Seafoamed the intake, after seeing the water/meth build up, on the intake, can't be healthy for the motor to be ingesting that! Guessing the valve seats also had a build up, its time to go a cleaner route will be using 100% methanol mixed with distilled water in the future
-Found a bad bearing on the SC bracket, ribbed idler pulley, replaced.
-Re-torqued SC bracket and all bolts, some took on a slight adjustment
-New tank of fuel
-Uploaded an older tune that worked well but has a lean spot in it on medium motor load
-Found a hidden crack in the piping near the BOV due to overtightening, after blowing off couplings a few times, might have went overboard. Sealed the crack, checked all other connections.
-Found both BOV's were adjusted wrong, in the RR installation instructions it states to set the bov to the minimum spring compression, by doing so twist counter clockwise until you see the O-ring, the directions have an older gen big bubba blow off pictured and show the o ring up the cylinder shaft much farther than the next gen bov which is only about a 1/4 inch from bottoming out, foolish mistake to bring the cap past the rubber o ring on my part. Resulting in a vacuum and boost leak, and most likely improper function. However boost pressure seems to be the same.
-Oiled bov valves
-Re-hosed and re-routed all vacuum tubing to a higher grade product
Low end knock and the tick has been absent for about 4 days now, perhaps it was an anomaly in the tune at low load? As requested, to test if it was mechanical the next tune rafi had sent me with highly reduced timing below 3k seemed to perform even worse with more knock on the low end, got me thinking if running an e40 mix with reduced timing is actually counter-productive with the octane being much higher with lower timing.
Bottom line, don't know what the issue truly was/is, did alot of things and maintenance at once, but finding visible metal shavings sprinkled in the oil filter is never a good sign. Thinking a dyno tune is probably needed considering all the variables at high altitude, an in person tune with adjustments at multiple different throttle loads. If the knock comes back or find more magnetic shavings I'll revisit this thread with an update.
-Installed new oem maf
-Re-torqued Crank Hub (was to spec already)
-Re-checked spark plugs, performed cold compression test
-Fuel system cleaner, royal purple
-Seafoamed the intake, after seeing the water/meth build up, on the intake, can't be healthy for the motor to be ingesting that! Guessing the valve seats also had a build up, its time to go a cleaner route will be using 100% methanol mixed with distilled water in the future
-Found a bad bearing on the SC bracket, ribbed idler pulley, replaced.
-Re-torqued SC bracket and all bolts, some took on a slight adjustment
-New tank of fuel
-Uploaded an older tune that worked well but has a lean spot in it on medium motor load
-Found a hidden crack in the piping near the BOV due to overtightening, after blowing off couplings a few times, might have went overboard. Sealed the crack, checked all other connections.
-Found both BOV's were adjusted wrong, in the RR installation instructions it states to set the bov to the minimum spring compression, by doing so twist counter clockwise until you see the O-ring, the directions have an older gen big bubba blow off pictured and show the o ring up the cylinder shaft much farther than the next gen bov which is only about a 1/4 inch from bottoming out, foolish mistake to bring the cap past the rubber o ring on my part. Resulting in a vacuum and boost leak, and most likely improper function. However boost pressure seems to be the same.
-Oiled bov valves
-Re-hosed and re-routed all vacuum tubing to a higher grade product
Low end knock and the tick has been absent for about 4 days now, perhaps it was an anomaly in the tune at low load? As requested, to test if it was mechanical the next tune rafi had sent me with highly reduced timing below 3k seemed to perform even worse with more knock on the low end, got me thinking if running an e40 mix with reduced timing is actually counter-productive with the octane being much higher with lower timing.
Bottom line, don't know what the issue truly was/is, did alot of things and maintenance at once, but finding visible metal shavings sprinkled in the oil filter is never a good sign. Thinking a dyno tune is probably needed considering all the variables at high altitude, an in person tune with adjustments at multiple different throttle loads. If the knock comes back or find more magnetic shavings I'll revisit this thread with an update.
Checking back in. Tick and knock has seemed to have subsided for the moment. Went through everything I could think of and fixed a few small things including:
-Installed new oem maf
-Re-torqued Crank Hub (was to spec already)
-Re-checked spark plugs, performed cold compression test
-Fuel system cleaner, royal purple
-Seafoamed the intake, after seeing the water/meth build up, on the intake, can't be healthy for the motor to be ingesting that! Guessing the valve seats also had a build up, its time to go a cleaner route will be using 100% methanol mixed with distilled water in the future
-Found a bad bearing on the SC bracket, ribbed idler pulley, replaced.
-Re-torqued SC bracket and all bolts, some took on a slight adjustment
-New tank of fuel
-Uploaded an older tune that worked well but has a lean spot in it on medium motor load
-Found a hidden crack in the piping near the BOV due to overtightening, after blowing off couplings a few times, might have went overboard. Sealed the crack, checked all other connections.
-Found both BOV's were adjusted wrong, in the RR installation instructions it states to set the bov to the minimum spring compression, by doing so twist counter clockwise until you see the O-ring, the directions have an older gen big bubba blow off pictured and show the o ring up the cylinder shaft much farther than the next gen bov which is only about a 1/4 inch from bottoming out, foolish mistake to bring the cap past the rubber o ring on my part. Resulting in a vacuum and boost leak, and most likely improper function. However boost pressure seems to be the same.
-Oiled bov valves
-Re-hosed and re-routed all vacuum tubing to a higher grade product
Low end knock and the tick has been absent for about 4 days now, perhaps it was an anomaly in the tune at low load? As requested, to test if it was mechanical the next tune rafi had sent me with highly reduced timing below 3k seemed to perform even worse with more knock on the low end, got me thinking if running an e40 mix with reduced timing is actually counter-productive with the octane being much higher with lower timing.
Bottom line, don't know what the issue truly was/is, did alot of things and maintenance at once, but finding visible metal shavings sprinkled in the oil filter is never a good sign. Thinking a dyno tune is probably needed considering all the variables at high altitude, an in person tune with adjustments at multiple different throttle loads. If the knock comes back or find more magnetic shavings I'll revisit this thread with an update.
-Installed new oem maf
-Re-torqued Crank Hub (was to spec already)
-Re-checked spark plugs, performed cold compression test
-Fuel system cleaner, royal purple
-Seafoamed the intake, after seeing the water/meth build up, on the intake, can't be healthy for the motor to be ingesting that! Guessing the valve seats also had a build up, its time to go a cleaner route will be using 100% methanol mixed with distilled water in the future
-Found a bad bearing on the SC bracket, ribbed idler pulley, replaced.
-Re-torqued SC bracket and all bolts, some took on a slight adjustment
-New tank of fuel
-Uploaded an older tune that worked well but has a lean spot in it on medium motor load
-Found a hidden crack in the piping near the BOV due to overtightening, after blowing off couplings a few times, might have went overboard. Sealed the crack, checked all other connections.
-Found both BOV's were adjusted wrong, in the RR installation instructions it states to set the bov to the minimum spring compression, by doing so twist counter clockwise until you see the O-ring, the directions have an older gen big bubba blow off pictured and show the o ring up the cylinder shaft much farther than the next gen bov which is only about a 1/4 inch from bottoming out, foolish mistake to bring the cap past the rubber o ring on my part. Resulting in a vacuum and boost leak, and most likely improper function. However boost pressure seems to be the same.
-Oiled bov valves
-Re-hosed and re-routed all vacuum tubing to a higher grade product
Low end knock and the tick has been absent for about 4 days now, perhaps it was an anomaly in the tune at low load? As requested, to test if it was mechanical the next tune rafi had sent me with highly reduced timing below 3k seemed to perform even worse with more knock on the low end, got me thinking if running an e40 mix with reduced timing is actually counter-productive with the octane being much higher with lower timing.
Bottom line, don't know what the issue truly was/is, did alot of things and maintenance at once, but finding visible metal shavings sprinkled in the oil filter is never a good sign. Thinking a dyno tune is probably needed considering all the variables at high altitude, an in person tune with adjustments at multiple different throttle loads. If the knock comes back or find more magnetic shavings I'll revisit this thread with an update.

Yes i believe this issue I had was multiple factors, think I had a funky tune causing the knock. Also may have had the oil level over 3/4 full, as I had recently done an oil change. I have also been buying sunoco methanol in 5 gallon pails and mixing distilled water for some very clean water/meth
Still having kclv issues but ONLY after an oil change, its very odd but I have started a thread on it as well, and apparently it seems like somewhat of a common issue, mine just seems to be worse than others
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...everytime.html
Check it out
Still having kclv issues but ONLY after an oil change, its very odd but I have started a thread on it as well, and apparently it seems like somewhat of a common issue, mine just seems to be worse than others
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...everytime.html
Check it out
Last edited by dcguy; Sep 9, 2023 at 06:10 AM.
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