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I just got my driver's front ProForce wheel hub bearing delivered this week based on this review and am going to do the install tomorrow. Are there any pitfalls / issues I need to be aware of during install or is it simply take the wheel, caliper, and rotor off then just those 4 bolts (torqued at 52 lb.) and swap the hub?
I just got my driver's front ProForce wheel hub bearing delivered this week based on this review and am going to do the install tomorrow. Are there any pitfalls / issues I need to be aware of during install or is it simply take the wheel, caliper, and rotor off then just those 4 bolts (torqued at 52 lb.) and swap the hub?
hi, make sure u don't rip your abs cable. Not that it happened to me, but it's little right. Other than that it's easy. Ohhh make sure u tighten your caliper good. I have small ratchet wrench and I thought I got it good only to have it little lose in a month or so. So far no issues.... it's been few month. Way quieter than original that was messed up.
Thank you xaker777 for the info! It went pretty much as you described. Just finished the install and WOW what a difference it makes going from a bad wheel hub with a *loud* worn bearing to this replacement! It's so smooth and quite now! Instant gratification. Took a couple pics when I got everything off. I took a steel brush to the wheel mount and got a lot of crud out of there before installing the new hub. Also... FYI Harbor Freight steel brushes last approximately 1 wheel hub before the bristles fall out and the handle snaps in half.
@lobuxracer I definitely did use a torque wrench for the hub and caliper bolts (no ugga-duggas). I'll be honest though I'm a little leery about the hub bolts only being torqued to 51 ft/lb. Should I have used some loctite or something to hold the wheel on? Because getting the bolts off was a lot harder than what spec torque should have been.
The factory service manual does not say anything about a thread locking compound, so I would not use one. Usually if there is a need for it, they tell you to replace the bolts on principle and they come from Lexus with thread lock on them. The bolt for the brake bridge is a perfect example of this.
The torque value is based on engineering specs. As long as your wrench is in good shape, there is no reason not to trust this will work. Very often it is much harder to remove a nut or bolt that was tightened to spec and has seen rain, sand, salt, and many miles of use since then. I would not sweat it unless you know more about the materials involved than the engineers who determined this was the correct value.
Also - what were you hearing that made you sure the bearing was going bad? I ask because I am suspicious of my front hubs, but they don't seem to be making any noises. The problem with that is, they could be making noises that gradually intensified over time so I just got used to hearing them and now they don't sound abnormal but could be. How would you describe the noise you were hearing before you swapped out the hubs?
Great input as always lobuxracer. Your feedback gives me confidence in my work.
You make a great point about the slow degradation of the bearings and the onset of noise. Over the course of about 5 months my rear, then front tires were going bad. During that time I changed my OEM exhaust to an aftermarket setup so noises were charging all around. The sound I was hearing I attributed to the front tires going bad (corded on the innermost tread patch) which to me explained the whirring, dull *whompwhomp* sound. I just chalked it up to the tires need to be replaced and the tread is sloughing unevenly.
After replacing the fronts with Michelin PSS (great deal pictured below btw) the whirring / dull *whompwhomp* sound remained. I took the car back to the tire store to have them validate the tires were not out of round and there was another issue at hand. The tech used a stethoscope with a metal probe on the end and spun the front wheel while touching the probe to the hub and you could hear the unhappy metal on metal contact. That’s all I needed to know I had a bad wheel hub bearing.
Thank you xaker777 for recommending the alternative. My shop also ordered the IS part thinking it would fit on my ISF. I ended up contacting the Ebay seller and got the same part that you got.
Noise is definitely gone and hasn't seen any issue yet.
Easiest way to check wheel bearings is to find a smooth road then drive in silence at more than 60km/h and change lanes left and right you might have to swerve a little to load up the bearing to hear the noise.
When you swerve left your weight is shifting right and loading up the passenger side wheel bearings. When you swerve right your weight is shifting left and loading up the driver side wheel bearings.
If your exhaust is loud build some speed then coast or shift to neutral.
The rear ones can sometimes be tricky so have someone sit in middle of the back seat and listen.
xaker777 with your old wheel bearing do you mind popping off the abs sensor and sending pics? On some of my vehicles I pull the abs sensor out and add grease with a grease gun.
but if you have an event sufficient to require a wheel repair, odds are good you'll be replacing the wheel bearings fairly soon.
Interesting... I wonder if this is why I have a "slipping" sensation & sound from the front when I'm in reverse with the steering hard-over. I hit a large rock in the road coming back from the airport which required wheel repair.
Interesting... I wonder if this is why I have a "slipping" sensation & sound from the front when I'm in reverse with the steering hard-over. I hit a large rock in the road coming back from the airport which required wheel repair.
I'm pretty sure the slipping sensation is fairly common especially with the Michelin tires. Whenever I would back out of my driveway while having the steering wheel fully cocked one way or the other, the front tires would make a noise like they were being dragged a bit. Used to happen to me with the original tires, not so much anymore.
I'm pretty sure the slipping sensation is fairly common especially with the Michelin tires. Whenever I would back out of my driveway while having the steering wheel fully cocked one way or the other, the front tires would make a noise like they were being dragged a bit. Used to happen to me with the original tires, not so much anymore.
10-4, thanks. Michelin PSS here. Makes sense as it seems to happen more in colder weather.
I'm pretty sure the slipping sensation is fairly common especially with the Michelin tires. Whenever I would back out of my driveway while having the steering wheel fully cocked one way or the other, the front tires would make a noise like they were being dragged a bit. Used to happen to me with the original tires, not so much anymore.
Originally Posted by Quadrphnia
10-4, thanks. Michelin PSS here. Makes sense as it seems to happen more in colder weather.
This is also much more common with the OEM LCA bushings. Not nearly as common with polyurethane bushings, and I'll be finding out how much better the solid bearings are shortly. The rear LCA solid bushings are ready to install, just need to get some other bits together and I'll put them in.
09-28-18, 06:11 PM
