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I'm saying any bonded rubber pivot point should be left loose until the car is sitting on its tires as there is more leverage applied to the hub than jacking at the furthest point out. Now tighten anything that was loosened.
As stated, the other option is to measure from the wheel well lip to the hub center. Lets say it's 15in. Compress the suspension to obtain that same 15in and tighten any pinch bolts loosened.
Again, apply this concept to front and rear for any work being done. If you have ramps you can set the car on, Lower it onto ramps and torque it. Of course the suspension will not settle out completely until you roll the chassis but this is way better than having it hanging down and tightening it up.
Make sense?
Yeah that makes sense, I drove my car about 80 miles with it like that hopefully there be no damage. But I'll get right back tomorrow once I put it on the lift. Also I don't exactly know which parts in the suspension in a bonded rubber pivot. That's where I need your input on where exactly that is. I might have an idea which ones, but Iwant reassurance as you know better about this issue.
Like so....
Anything loosened having a steel core with rubber bonded. OEM shocks are like this too.
You loosen anything on the subframe? If so, most of all of those are bushings too.
So basically like the picture I have, I should push it up to the control arm to the neutral position and torque all of the bolts? Or should if possible may you point out which ones I should retorque with the diagram attached??
As stated in the thread I put this diagram in, every bolt with a red box around it needs to be fully loose, corner loaded, and then tightened to spec. Setting the car on the ground ideal except you won't be able to access all the bolts with the wheels in the way. That's why I jack underneath the knuckle until the spring is fully loaded and the chassis lifts off the jackstand closest to the corner, then tighten. You have best access with no wheel installed.
Also, contrary to best practice, you'll need to tighten the bolt and not the nut in some cases. The nuts in some spots are semi-captive, so tightening the nuts with a torque wrench (always preferred practice) will not yield correct torque.
As stated in the thread I put this diagram in, every bolt with a red box around it needs to be fully loose, corner loaded, and then tightened to spec. Setting the car on the ground ideal except you won't be able to access all the bolts with the wheels in the way. That's why I jack underneath the knuckle until the spring is fully loaded and the chassis lifts off the jackstand closest to the corner, then tighten. You have best access with no wheel installed.
Also, contrary to best practice, you'll need to tighten the bolt and not the nut in some cases. The nuts in some spots are semi-captive, so tightening the nuts with a torque wrench (always preferred practice) will not yield correct torque.
Hi Lobux,
Understood the torquing process, I try my best to torque the bolt side, but sometimes my torque wrench can't even get it there! glad you guys are providing critical info! I will be getting this thread updated soon!
Currently my ISF is sitting at the shop getting the mufflers done, but I will get it back on monday! With the thought of my bushings getting ripped as I drive home I hope there won't be damage from it as I drive locally!
Would you mind sharing what this improves/what is now adjustable?
The STOCK IS F has no camber adjustability in the rear, these upper control arms have adjustments that allow camber to be adjusted to a certain extent. I still need to do the fronts as Ive ran out of adjustment. Overall, its not too expensive either
I hope there won't be damage from it as I drive locally!
