When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Just installed a set of BC Racing Coilovers, rr racing LCA USRS and Ultra Racing struts bars / lower front stress bar. Ah and I did front sway bar repositioning of the connecting hole 1" inside on each side. I went with 16/12 spring rates and now I'm dampening at 20/25 for the street, but feels a little bouncy. For the track I'll try 15/20.
The car is another car. Planted, agjle. Im not fighting with it in the corners. There is feedback now from the steering. Just waiting on the new tyres R888r 235 in the front and 275 rear and ready for the next track day on March 11th.
Almost forgot u lowered the car 1" front and .6 rear although a few days after, it seems to be more.
Some pictures
Last edited by PTYIS2; Feb 11, 2018 at 08:21 AM.
Reason: Hit button by mistake
Nice. Report back on how the setup changes the handling on track. What wheels are you putting the R888Rs on?
For the track i plan to use my old is350 Enkei GTC01 (lightweight), they are front: 9.0 with 22 offset i believe and 9.5 with 42 offset wrapped with 235.35.19 and 275.35.19 R888r tires. because the offset was for the 350 they tend to be more on the outside almost parallel with the fender i have used them on a track day already but with stock height and with a 235 R888 in the rear. So I'll need to try them to see if there is rubbing.
Nice! Looking forward to seeing how all these mods have an effect on your track experience. But for the track, I would stiffen up the damper, not soften it. From gathering input from fellow track enthusiasts and guys who really know their suspension well, increase the front damper more. 20 should be more than adequate for street driving, and you're probably getting a bouncy feel because the rear is stiffer. I would suggest tinkering with all corners in the middle damper and seeing how you like it for street purpose. As a reference, I have my BC Racing coilovers with Swift springs (also 16/12) at full stiff damper all around, and honestly, the ride is very compliant. When it comes to the track, that stiffness really aids on the smoother tracks here in California, but sometimes full stiff isn't the best way to go. So definitely research your local track and see what the road conditions are like there. A bumpier track might mean softening that damper a bit.
Nice! Looking forward to seeing how all these mods have an effect on your track experience. But for the track, I would stiffen up the damper, not soften it. From gathering input from fellow track enthusiasts and guys who really know their suspension well, increase the front damper more. 20 should be more than adequate for street driving, and you're probably getting a bouncy feel because the rear is stiffer. I would suggest tinkering with all corners in the middle damper and seeing how you like it for street purpose. As a reference, I have my BC Racing coilovers with Swift springs (also 16/12) at full stiff damper all around, and honestly, the ride is very compliant. When it comes to the track, that stiffness really aids on the smoother tracks here in California, but sometimes full stiff isn't the best way to go. So definitely research your local track and see what the road conditions are like there. A bumpier track might mean softening that damper a bit.
Thanks for the feedback. If im correct, going from street with 20/25 to 15/20 (FR/FF counterclockwise clicks) will make them more stiff, since it will be 5 clicks closer to full stiff (clockwise). Unless I got it all wrong?
No rear swaybar rate increase? I've felt these cars understeer (as you might expect from the factory) and the F-sport rear bar is a nice addition. However I'm in a 2008 and know the geometries are a bit different. Perhaps the settings and springs on the BC make up for it. Curious. Nice ride.
No rear swaybar rate increase? I've felt these cars understeer (as you might expect from the factory) and the F-sport rear bar is a nice addition. However I'm in a 2008 and know the geometries are a bit different. Perhaps the settings and springs on the BC make up for it. Curious. Nice ride.
Originally i was going to get the rear F Sports rear sway bar, but since i havent been able to find a seller that just sell the rear one, i think ill go intead with the Sikky adjustable one, that depending on how the car handle with the stock one on the track next month.
Do you want track performance or a nice ride on the street? Changing damping does little to solve soft spring rates, so you really need to decide where you want your set up to be most competent and understand it won't be optimum for the other condition.
Do you want track performance or a nice ride on the street? Changing damping does little to solve soft spring rates, so you really need to decide where you want your set up to be most competent and understand it won't be optimum for the other condition.
Thanks Lance for your always constructive feedback.
So you're saying that the swift springs with 16/12 rate aren't good for the track and the street?
For now it's my daily driver too, although because of work I travel 2 to 3 weeks of the month and when I'm in Panama My daily commute is around 10 miles.
Consider how both RR Racing and FIGS use square setups on their shop F's. If you've gone so far as taking RRR's advice on modifying your stock front sway, consider a more square setup for track use if you really want to get the most out of it. 275/35's will fit 9" wheels. 19's make for an expensive track day setup, but you'll look sharp at least!
Thanks Lance for your always constructive feedback.
So you're saying that the swift springs with 16/12 rate aren't good for the track and the street?
For now it's my daily driver too, although because of work I travel 2 to 3 weeks of the month and when I'm in Panama My daily commute is around 10 miles.
Those rates are pretty soft for track work IMHO. The biggest issue on the track is lifting the inside rear wheel, and the best way to reduce/eliminate this is stiffer front springs. Given your location, I doubt stiffer springs are going to be pleasant on the road, so you have to decide which venue is most important, driving on the street or driving on the track. If track is just for fun, keep your current setup, compensate where you can with stiffer compression damping, and call it a good compromise.
You might look at this thread. It touches on some overlooked details when ride height is changed here.
Also, when ride height changes the sway bar may need linkage adjustment to maintain its effectiveness. Between the body mount and the end link active on the suspension, the end link mount point to body mount (imaginary line) must be parallel to the ground.
In terms of transferring torque from the body to the suspension, draw an imaginary line from the bars center at its mount to the connection at the end link. If the bar is parallel to the ground the link spacing to the axle is correct. If the bar is angled up or down (when at ride height) you are not taking full mechanical advantage of the anti-sway bar. Adjust the connecting length so the imaginary line is parallel to the grounds surface.
Its like a 200lb person using gravity to tighten a nut.
If the 12in breaker bar is at the 3 o'clock position and stood on, 200lbs of force is applied to the nut. If the bars end is at the 4:30 position, only 100lbs of force is applied.
Level the bar if you want full rated effectiveness.
Last edited by 2013FSport; Feb 13, 2018 at 08:01 PM.
Reason: mount point to body mount must
Nice to see someone getting serious about chassis reenforcement on the F.
Also awesome to see some people sharing some helpful technical info with regards to suspension tuning. Been debating getting the UltraRacing products myself.
Nicely done. I've been thinking about doing this for a while. Been buying piece by piece slowly. But now with your post I will get seriously back on this. Thanks for the post man!!!
Improving handling
