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IS F (2008-2014) Discussion topics related to the IS F model

Still have inner tire wear even with the USRS!

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Old 09-05-17, 04:23 PM   #16
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By the look of those dry rotted tires you were ready for new ones anyway.
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Old 09-05-17, 04:24 PM   #17
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Inner tire wear is usually from out of spec camber/toe. Even.01 deg can make a difference on the wear.
Also mind you, lexus designed the F to handle better so the OEM specs have more carmber than normal.
If you want absolutely no inner tire wear, get your camber and toe as close to zero but don't expect the car to handle as good from factory.

USRS was designed to help with steering response, not to eliminate inner tire wear

hope that helps
Hi "Mod", thanks for the info. It does help. I mention the USRS only because so many other have gotten the even tire wear they were looking for by using the USRS. In no way am I faulting the USRS and am thankful for RR Racing development of so many products for the ISF. However, I would venture a guess that at least half who purchased the USRS did so to minimize inner tire wear rather than improve steering feel. Thankfully, it helps do both!

I will purchase two new fronts and go ZERO toe to attempt to solve this problem. I also read that toe in also improves high speed stability, is this the case?
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Old 09-05-17, 04:30 PM   #18
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The upgraded bushings were - by theory - helped to control the dynamic toe when braking at speed, which was one of the reasons that the 2nd Gen IS had issues with front toe wear.
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Old 09-05-17, 04:32 PM   #19
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By the look of those dry rotted tires you were ready for new ones anyway.
Date codes are 0414 and 3715. Will tires dry rot this quickly? Is there anything else this could be other than dry rot?
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Old 09-05-17, 07:36 PM   #20
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Date codes are 0414 and 3715. Will tires dry rot this quickly? Is there anything else this could be other than dry rot?
It is possible, heat cycling and driving high performance tires in cold conditions can accelerate this process.

Did you have these tires on before the upgraded bushing?
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Old 09-05-17, 08:03 PM   #21
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It is possible, heat cycling and driving high performance tires in cold conditions can accelerate this process.

Did you have these tires on before the upgraded bushing?
As the car is my DD, I did drive them all through the winter. They likely see some heat cycling too. I never knew it could happen that fast. Good to know!

These fronts were put on at the same time the USRS was put on. They have zero miles without the upgraded bushings.
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Old 09-06-17, 07:54 AM   #22
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When you say entire alignment measurements, do you mean the rear also? If not, what additional is needed for the front to show cross camber and cross castor?
The alignment rack should print out values for Cross Camber, Cross Caster, Cross SAI, Total Toe and Cross Turn Diff. These are important measurements of the front suspension that will indicate if the subframe is aligned. I have attached my alignment print out from many years ago when it DID have a poorly aligned subframe (values towards the center of the document). It has since been corrected.




Also I would add, the wear from your pictures is really not that bad for a heavy sports sedan with an aggressive alignment and suspension geometry with high performance tires.
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Old 09-06-17, 08:51 AM   #23
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The alignment rack should print out values for Cross Camber, Cross Caster, Cross SAI, Total Toe and Cross Turn Diff. These are important measurements of the front suspension that will indicate if the subframe is aligned. I have attached my alignment print out from many years ago when it DID have a poorly aligned subframe (values towards the center of the document). It has since been corrected.

Also I would add, the wear from your pictures is really not that bad for a heavy sports sedan with an aggressive alignment and suspension geometry with high performance tires.
The printout I received from Firestone was formatted differently than this one. I am not sure that it mentions cross camber/caster. I will have to check.

You may be correct with respect to the wear on my tires, but this level of wear isn't vastly different than my pre-USRS levels. It is better, mind you, but when your brain expects resolution of the inner tire issue and the result is that it only makes it slightly better, it stands out and is disappointing. Many people on here report EVEN tire wear across the surface of their tires and I am trying to get to that condition of wear if I can. I'm trying to figure out how to do it now. To be clear, I am not trying to hustle this heavy car around corners with Corvettes or Civic TypeRs so a less aggressive suspension setting suits me just fine. To be truthful, good tire wear and straight-line stability would be ideal for me. My exposure to curves and freeway ramps is limited where I am.
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Old 09-06-17, 04:30 PM   #24
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My set of S-04's looks exactly as yours, but I have 245 with factory alignment. When you mean 'pre-usrs' levels are you comparing to PSS?
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Old 09-06-17, 07:53 PM   #25
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My set of S-04's looks exactly as yours, but I have 245 with factory alignment. When you mean 'pre-usrs' levels are you comparing to PSS?
I am running stock sizes on 2010 rims front and rear. I had the USRS put on my car just prior to installing the S-04s front and rear. I have installed one set of rears since then ( for obvious reasons ). Prior to the USRS and S-04s, I was running Michelin PSS in stock sizes. They wore down to cord showing on the inner edge. I had hoped with the USRS to run 1 set of fronts to two sets of rears, but with inner edge wear on the fronts, it doesn't look like that will be possible.
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Old 09-06-17, 08:31 PM   #26
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Even with lots of negative camber you can minimize wear by increasing toe in beyond spec and in some cases increase tire pressure ever so slightly.

A competent tech if told the real story and you point and say, this is the wear at 5000mi, what can we do? I maintained the pressure at xx.x and drive mostly freeway miles, what do you see?

Cars that do the errands and grocery shopping will scrub the edges a lot. Increase tire pressure a small amount.
I'm saying, watch them close and adjust as needed for how they are used.

My old car had -1.75 and -2.25 rear camber. I string align it in the drive maintaining equal turns to keep the rear thrust angle and front steering wheel centered. We are talking small adjustment here and this is not for everyone but a good tech can mitigate wear. Share the woke story and go back to the same guy, same equipment. Their OLD as left values should come up as your current As Found values. From here minor adjustments can help you...

Good luck and keep us posted. Post the values as left and the best tire pictures you can.
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Old 09-06-17, 08:53 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by 2013FSport View Post
Even with lots of negative camber you can minimize wear by increasing toe in beyond spec and in some cases increase tire pressure ever so slightly.
A competent tech if told the real story and you point and say, this is the wear at 5000mi, what can we do? I maintained the pressure at xx.x and drive mostly freeway miles, what do you see?
Cars that do the errands and grocery shopping will scrub the edges a lot. Increase tire pressure a small amount.
I'm saying, watch them close and adjust as needed for how they are used.
My old car had -1.75 and -2.25 rear camber. I string align it in the drive maintaining equal turns to keep the rear thrust angle and front steering wheel centered. We are talking small adjustment here and this is not for everyone but a good tech can mitigate wear. Share the woke story and go back to the same guy, same equipment. Their OLD as left values should come up as your current As Found values. From here minor adjustments can help you...
Good luck and keep us posted. Post the values as left and the best tire pictures you can.
This is good info and goes along with what I thought I would do. Increasing the pressure was my first thought, with careful attention to watch for excessive center treadwear and odd handling traits I don't like. I had considered a modest/slight toe-in adjustment but reconsidered once I evaluated my driving style. Monday-Friday consists of short trips to work (less than 10 miles RT x 5 days). The weekend typically consists of longer drives (100-125 miles total RT on Sat-Sun). Given this, any toe-in benefit around town would be offset by the highway mileage outside edge wear in addition to higher speed turn-in outer edge wear.

I am scheduled to get new front "shoes" this Friday. So, the plan is to start with 37 psi (cold) in the front with zero toe. I don't anticipate any other changes during the installation.
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Old 09-06-17, 10:11 PM   #28
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I have the USRS have have never had this issue. When I sold my stock wheels and tires, S-04, 245/35 in front wear was quite even as I recall. I just went out and check my current RCF wheels with S-04, 255/35 and both sides, inner and outer measured 8/32".

Lou
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Old 09-06-17, 10:20 PM   #29
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I have the USRS have have never had this issue. When I sold my stock wheels and tires, S-04, 245/35 in front wear was quite even as I recall. I just went out and check my current RCF wheels with S-04, 255/35 and both sides, inner and outer measured 8/32".

Lou
Thanks for the input Lou. It is precisely feedback like yours that I feel like what is going on with my car is abnormal.

In the end, I would love to prevent this wear if possible. For those who have "normal" and even wear, I would love to know the secret. Big scheme of things though, replacing two fronts every 12k-15k isn't the end of the world. Thanks for all of the help everyone!
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Old 09-06-17, 11:26 PM   #30
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I got coilovers and adj rear upper arms and having trouble finding a reputable shop. Can anyone recommend a competent 4 wheel alignment shop here in So Cal Los Angeles area?

Sorry but my intent wasn't to highjack this thread.
Hit up 714 Tires. They have great prices and customer service. You won't be disappointed.
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