P0012 timing over retarded
P0012 cam shaft position "A" timing over retarded (bank 1) I first threw this code a couple months ago then cleared it and prayed lol. I was hoping it was just something stupid but this past Friday it popped up again I cleared it and today it came on again. All 3 times it came on at idle and I haven't found any info about it on here. I'm hoping someone may have some insight on the issue and can point me in the right direction. My car is an 08 with 147k on it.
Solution and test for this problem are stickied here.
Solution and test for this problem are stickied here.
Last edited by lobuxracer; Jun 1, 2024 at 05:14 PM.
It's not the oil operated cam that is the issue, it's the electronic one (intake). It's showing more than 5 degrees retarded from expected value. If you have Techstream and TIS, you can troubleshoot it pretty effectively. Without them, it will be pretty hard to determine exactly what the cause is.
If you want to shotgun it, which is pretty much your only choice, you'll need 130A0-38010 and 13050-38021 as they seem to be a matched set (although I could be wrong about that as they are available separately). The first part number is the electric motor, the second is the sprocket. The service manual recommends removing the electric motor and checking the sprocket for smooth movement internally.
This is the first time I've heard of anyone having a cam drive issue on this forum for this engine. I was wondering about the longevity of those things when they first came out.
If you want to shotgun it, which is pretty much your only choice, you'll need 130A0-38010 and 13050-38021 as they seem to be a matched set (although I could be wrong about that as they are available separately). The first part number is the electric motor, the second is the sprocket. The service manual recommends removing the electric motor and checking the sprocket for smooth movement internally.
This is the first time I've heard of anyone having a cam drive issue on this forum for this engine. I was wondering about the longevity of those things when they first came out.
It's not the oil operated cam that is the issue, it's the electronic one (intake). It's showing more than 5 degrees retarded from expected value. If you have Techstream and TIS, you can troubleshoot it pretty effectively. Without them, it will be pretty hard to determine exactly what the cause is.
If you want to shotgun it, which is pretty much your only choice, you'll need 130A0-38010 and 13050-38021 as they seem to be a matched set (although I could be wrong about that as they are available separately). The first part number is the electric motor, the second is the sprocket. The service manual recommends removing the electric motor and checking the sprocket for smooth movement internally.
This is the first time I've heard of anyone having a cam drive issue on this forum for this engine. I was wondering about the longevity of those things when they first came out.
If you want to shotgun it, which is pretty much your only choice, you'll need 130A0-38010 and 13050-38021 as they seem to be a matched set (although I could be wrong about that as they are available separately). The first part number is the electric motor, the second is the sprocket. The service manual recommends removing the electric motor and checking the sprocket for smooth movement internally.
This is the first time I've heard of anyone having a cam drive issue on this forum for this engine. I was wondering about the longevity of those things when they first came out.
I got today same code p0012 on my gs450 hdidnt liketo c=harge battery fast and lost some power at highway speed.
did soe digging on web and found that oil level if it is low will trigger this fault.just to mentioned here i did switch oil from 5w30 to 0w20 mobil1 .well level was kind of closer to the bottom mark on the dipstick.so i have added more oil and clear fault 500 km after code didnt repeat.so this is strange but will monitor tomorow .one thing here was interesting that hybrid battery was at low mark but didnt trigger fault p0A80.
codes that poped up was p0300 and p0420 at the same time.
milage is about 361 000 km
did soe digging on web and found that oil level if it is low will trigger this fault.just to mentioned here i did switch oil from 5w30 to 0w20 mobil1 .well level was kind of closer to the bottom mark on the dipstick.so i have added more oil and clear fault 500 km after code didnt repeat.so this is strange but will monitor tomorow .one thing here was interesting that hybrid battery was at low mark but didnt trigger fault p0A80.
codes that poped up was p0300 and p0420 at the same time.
milage is about 361 000 km
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Update ,today on highway battery didn't like to charge at full level.
code didn't pop up ,but anyway I have connected my obd codereader and it was p0012 precode detected ,just in first stage probably not enough to trigger check engine light.
This time oil level was ok so is there any other info about this code.
code didn't pop up ,but anyway I have connected my obd codereader and it was p0012 precode detected ,just in first stage probably not enough to trigger check engine light.
This time oil level was ok so is there any other info about this code.
0w20 oil is not a good idea in a motor requiring 5W 30 or 10W 30 and I would never use it in a hot climate. It is just to light duty of a oil. It would not surprise me if the light oil did not interfere with the advance/retard feature on your cams and your computer picked it up. The heavier oil recommended by the manufacturer is cheap insurance. Use a synthetic in a motor with a large sump capacity. It will work better while the oil heats up to operating temperature and doesn't mind doings its job while cold.
0W 20 oil is an excellent product for a motor with very tight clearances. Not so good as the clearances get a bit lose. The stuff is used in race motors to reduce the power needed to drive the oiling system. However, the effect becomes obvious when the main and rod bearings are examined. They get replaced.
If your battery is low, use a battery charger. Saves wear on the alternator which are not cheap.
0W 20 oil is an excellent product for a motor with very tight clearances. Not so good as the clearances get a bit lose. The stuff is used in race motors to reduce the power needed to drive the oiling system. However, the effect becomes obvious when the main and rod bearings are examined. They get replaced.
If your battery is low, use a battery charger. Saves wear on the alternator which are not cheap.
New update regarding code p0012 .
seafoam was used to clean carbon today .added to crankcase and thru cold air intake.A lot of smoke came out as expected.
Now fuel economy is much better code didn't show up.
It this related to carbon deposit or there is something else.? What is causing p0012 to pop up?!?
seafoam was used to clean carbon today .added to crankcase and thru cold air intake.A lot of smoke came out as expected.
Now fuel economy is much better code didn't show up.
It this related to carbon deposit or there is something else.? What is causing p0012 to pop up?!?
so I have the check VSC system check engine light is on. According to scanner it shows the P0012 code. The mechanic says he thinks its part 130A038030 which is Variable Valve Timing-Solenoid... this part is $500 - $850 online OEM. He is not 100% sure this is my issue but more like 85% ...any suggestions.... He said it could also be come bearing or something that calls for 25 hours mechanic time...
I wonder if it's maybe also got something to do with the weather? I got this code 4 days ago myself- 1 current and 1 pending. Oil Level looks good and I'm a lil' over 2000 miles on a 5000 interval w Mobil Super 5000 and OEM Oil Filter. Cleared the codes and checked again yesterday evening to see it back under Pending...If this throws a CEL again, I'll have my mechanic diagnose w/ a techstream as both of these parts may be more than I am willing to tinker with right now.
I wonder if it's maybe also got something to do with the weather? I got this code 4 days ago myself- 1 current and 1 pending. Oil Level looks good and I'm a lil' over 2000 miles on a 5000 interval w Mobil Super 5000 and OEM Oil Filter. Cleared the codes and checked again yesterday evening to see it back under Pending...If this throws a CEL again, I'll have my mechanic diagnose w/ a techstream as both of these parts may be more than I am willing to tinker with right now.
well I cleared mine more than once already. The check engine light will come back on just a matter of time. I ordered the part from the UAE, it was $300 cheaper .... Its OEM (what it says) and I will have it installed this week.
Not to thread-jack, but i think i may also be having an issue with part 130A0-38010, Cam Timing Control Unit. I dont have any codes, but its making a heck of a noise, sounds like a bearing is going. Does this seems like a possibility? Its quite loud on cold start up, but goes away once the engine has reached normal operating temps? I have a 2008 with 108K kms.
thanks,
-R
thanks,
-R
If you want to shotgun it, which is pretty much your only choice, you'll need 130A0-38010 and 13050-38021 as they seem to be a matched set (although I could be wrong about that as they are available separately). The first part number is the electric motor, the second is the sprocket. The service manual recommends removing the electric motor and checking the sprocket for smooth movement internally.
This is the first time I've heard of anyone having a cam drive issue on this forum for this engine. I was wondering about the longevity of those things when they first came out.
This is the first time I've heard of anyone having a cam drive issue on this forum for this engine. I was wondering about the longevity of those things when they first came out.
I also did some feverish google searching and came across this video that shows the exact error code and VSC and TC OFF lights- but on a GS430...hmmm...
After watching this video, you'll see quite a few more discussing VVTi along with OCV and the VVT Filter Screen. Makes sense, and I feel a heck of a lot more comfy spending $95 first on a new OCV solenoid before I move up to the shotgun approach lol. (There's even a YT video on my suggested list that shows you how to disassemble, clean and reassemble your current solenoid first).
The CEL mysteriously cleared up on it's own after 2 days and has been off since, however I've still got an active P0012 code and none in pending. I've got my eye on this and will also most likely just order a VVT Filter Screen as I'm sure it's gotta be dirty after 140k
Let us know how your install goes freemurry
Last edited by tronim; Aug 3, 2017 at 03:27 PM.








