Quick update on my issue, So I Spoke to my mechanic today he said the scav pump pulley had some play in it as well as grinding... Based on this I'm going to play it safe and get the new one... I don't think these are to have any play in them and out of an abundance of caution I'll order the new vibranium part

Anyone had this issue?

 

This is the first of these I've seen and I've been on this forum since before the IS F was released. I'd seriously reconsider whatever oil has been used in this engine, it's not doing its job. If cost is a significant consideration, I'd highly recommend Quaker State Ultimate Durability (QSUD) 5w-30. It has an exceptionally high load capacity and it's unbelievably cheap. I run Renewable Lubricants PCMO 5w-30 because it is extremely stable and producing unheard of low iron numbers in the wife's GS F, but it's expensive and hard to get unless you order directly from them. The other top option is Amsoil Signature Series (it's best of the best for load capacity), but it too is hard to get and expensive when you do.

Regardless, the oil quality is clearly lacking in whatever you've been running. This oil pump isn't anything super special - a bearing mounted shaft with a gerotor pump, just like the main oil pump for the engine - but it's priced like it's made of some exotic material.

If I were you, I'd also check oil pressure from the main oil pump to be sure it is still in good shape. Rule of thumb is 10 psi for every 1000 rpm with the oil fully heated. If you are not seeing that, change the main oil pump while you have the timing cover off. You'll be glad you did.

 

Small piece of follow up here - the main oil pump for this engine is an integral part of the timing cover. It is not a part you can buy separately, and you can't buy the gerotor set separate from the timing cover. Check your oil pressure, and buy parts as necessary.

 

Yeah mine is at the dealer to troubleshoot that idle tick reported in a lot of other threads already. On my 2011 they claim that the scav pump pulley had play in it and they suspect that to also be a contributor to the intermittent sound at cold idle. So they will perform a couple of tests (basically start the car cold without the serpentine belt on to check if the sound still appears) to narrow it down. If the sound is still there they will go ahead with the chain tensioner fix. Maybe fix the pulley in the process if it isn't too much hustle. Also had the valley plate leak so I guess the car will remain at the dealer for some time

//Max

 

Just a follow up to the previous post. Intermittent sound at cold idle wasn't the pulley, it was the tensioner.

 

Good stuff here.
Upon doing some work on my recently acquired 2010 IS-F I was greeted with the “Low Oil Presure” warning after the car had sat for 7 days. I had the front end raised about 10” when I started the car and received the warning for about 5 seconds. Proceeded to lower the vehicle, Oil level was perfect and I tested good oil pressure with my gauge. All is well!
However, after reading this thread my mind is convincing me that I hear what sounds like an intermittent “tick” coming from the drive belt area, closer to driver side where the one $600 oil pump/pulley reside. Pulley feels ok but how would I know otherwise... I’m going to be changing out the tensioner, belt, water pump and other pulleys very soon. I’m hoping this was an isolated or random occurrence.

 

Don't mean to revive this thread but I am having a chirping during cold start that goes away when the car gets warmer. I have already changed my accessory belt, tensioner, and idler pulley because that one was chirping as well. Here is a video of my OSP...doesn't seem normal to me but what do you guys think? Should I pull the trigger on this $600~ part .