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This is ONE of our offerings but like I said we cut custom parts all the time so if serious we can make it. We are making 2 other IS-f custom uppers this coming week for spirited track use.
Interested. I also want easily adjustable camber for the track. Based on my front tire wear, I believe I could use some negative camber.
I just came across the Godspeed Project (AK-080-BJ350) adjustable upper control arms. I need to adjust my camber after the KW coilovers instal. For $185, seems to be a great alternative to SPC ball joints and getting their tool for instal. Anyone with feedback for these? Obviously Figs control arms would be the ultimate solution but at $825+ and my car never seeing the track, I won't be able to do that.
This what i use to my camber adjustable bushings from superpro bushings from Figs along with some other goodies from Figs and friends. The only negative is you only have one degree of either negative or positive camber extremely easy to adjust and you never have to worry about slipping out of position.
I just came across the Godspeed Project (AK-080-BJ350) adjustable upper control arms. I need to adjust my camber after the KW coilovers instal. For $185, seems to be a great alternative to SPC ball joints and getting their tool for instal. Anyone with feedback for these? Obviously Figs control arms would be the ultimate solution but at $825+ and my car never seeing the track, I won't be able to do that.
Santa brought these to me :-)
- so I was able to get them in
this afternoon. Install took about 30 minutes each side. They look good with my KW3 coilovers.
Here is Right OEM vs. Left GoodSpeed one.
Otherside, my OEM ball-joint was actually leaking, good time to replace anyway.
FEEDBACK: It seems to be much stronger design vs. OEM (as you can see in the photos) besides the benefit of to be able to adjust the camber.
Came across few shortcomings though. First off, one of the arms had too much powder-coating on, I had to file it down to allow all the screws to fit and line up in the opening. Very annoying.
The fitment was about 2mm off, the new units did not want to slide in the mounting brackets. I used the poll from my jack to widen the mounting brackets, then all set and done.
The included ball joint hardware (right) is pretty flimsy, I reused the factory one.
Overall I give the product 8 / 10 rating. I like this solution better than the adjustable SPC ball joints, I am going back to the shop for alignment later this week. The fitment and finish is just OK.
There are 2 things to watch out for with an arm designed like this @Rossi . As I mentioned before, there is a narrow pocket that the upper control arm nests into. Pushing it outward will cause interference. The second is that the overall stack-up of the ball joint is taller, similar to the SPC ball joint. So you will get less travel upward before the arm contacts the inner fender sheetmetal. From what we have seen there is not a great reason to get to a "stock" camber spec since any lowered car has a different geometry than stock anyway. With toe being the leading cause for inner treadwear and our rear lower arm bushing resolving those issues, the best suggestion we have is the offset poly ones because you are also freeing up the motion of the arm.
Mike
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There are 2 things to watch out for with an arm designed like this @Rossi . As I mentioned before, there is a narrow pocket that the upper control arm nests into. Pushing it outward will cause interference. The second is that the overall stack-up of the ball joint is taller, similar to the SPC ball joint. So you will get less travel upward before the arm contacts the inner fender sheetmetal. From what we have seen there is not a great reason to get to a "stock" camber spec since any lowered car has a different geometry than stock anyway. With toe being the leading cause for inner treadwear and our rear lower arm bushing resolving those issues, the best suggestion we have is the offset poly ones because you are also freeing up the motion of the arm.
Mike
Good to know, thank you Mike, I will keep my eyes on this. I put 100 miles on it yesterday, some high-speeds, bumpy roads. Everything seems to be fine. Being aware of the potential problems, I will look out. I have your 90 bushings installed on the lower arms. I have gone only with mild drop on my KWs. What would be your recommendation for toe setting, how much in? I was still getting some inner tire wear. Hoping now, I can dial everything in and not eat my new Michelins. Thank you for all you do.
Anyone else find it difficult to adjust the bolts on the GodSpeed arm ball joints? Can’t even fit most tools to get to the bolts when it is on the car.
New option just released from @RRRacing If anyone gets these installed, please provide feedback.
I would love to hear how these feel for street driving as far as steering response and NVH.
Also, what is the ultimate front camber angle setting for streets?? (Without increased inner tire wear => LCA bushings already upgraded)
New option just released from @RRRacing If anyone gets these installed, please provide feedback.
I would love to hear how these feel for street driving as far as steering response and NVH.
Also, what is the ultimate front camber angle setting for streets?? (Without increased inner tire wear => LCA bushings already upgraded)
I think a max street camber setting for aggressive cornering is about -1.5deg without getting excess inner tire wear.
Keep in mind, our UCA maximize the amount of caster, which also serves to increase the amount of camber gained as the wheels are turned.
Rafi
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To adjust them, you need to remove the tire and remove the control arm itself every time right?
Originally Posted by RRRacing
Yes, that is correct. But it's not difficult to do. There were ways for us to make it adjustable without removing but it reduces spring clearance and raises costs up.
I would love to hear how these feel for street driving as far as steering response and NVH. Anyone with a feedback?
I had to get used to the increased caster for like a day. Other than that, I totally love it. Makes the car feel even more special. Since the steering is much more responsive now, I can actually perceive the "numbness" of the electronic steering even more. Have mine at -2.2*, probably too much. They were at -3* earlier and it ate up the inside of my new tires kinda badly
0 toe in front, +0.16 each side toe in back, -2* camber in back
I had to get used to the increased caster for like a day. Other than that, I totally love it.
Thank you for chiming in @JDMV8
What is the difference to get used to by increased caster, is the steering effort heavier? Can you explain?
Since there is no rubber at the mounting locations, any harshness over the bumps?
