SPC Performance 67530 Adjustable Ball Joint installation
#1
Driver
Thread Starter
SPC Performance 67530 Adjustable Ball Joint installation
Need some help. Went to Grand Turismo East in Atlanta and they tried to adjust camber and said that I would need SPC Performance 67530 Adjustable Ball Joint. Has anyone installed these? I ordered it and I am having a hard time removing ball joint from upper control arm. It seems as if this is all one unit. Is this so? Will I need to order a separate control arm
Last edited by AshyAnklez; 04-19-16 at 09:31 AM.
#3
Tech Info Resource
iTrader: (2)
Why are you adjusting camber?
You should remove the arm and press out the old ball joint in a press. The factory did not intend for the joint to be replaced, so it will not go easily.
You should remove the arm and press out the old ball joint in a press. The factory did not intend for the joint to be replaced, so it will not go easily.
#4
Driver
Thread Starter
Planning to track tomorrow and the guys here at the shop recommend that I get those adjustable ball joints...I lost the alignment paperwork....I gave up and now I am at the shop.
#5
Driver
Thread Starter
Yep. I got the cheap one from Harbor Freight and a loaner from Autozone....I swore never to have someone touch my car. Since track day is tomorrow and I ripped the upper ball joint boot I must surrender to the pros.
#6
Driver
Thread Starter
Have you been to Gran Turismo East? The owner is a race instructor for Chin motorsports and was told to come here by word of mouth I figured he knew what he was talking about
#7
I JUST changed mine on the weekend.
Just to verify did you remove the C clip? if this is not out you will never get the ball joint out.
This is also sometimes a challenge - I had to use a flat head screw driver to give it some gap.
You have to have the ball joint removal C clamp style unit with PROPER adapters.
If you get the proper adapters it will come out easily. It did take me a while with previous adapters that were for Honda as specified on SPC website and it pushes on the part below the ball joint which causes it to bend and want to wonder. I however managed to get both out this method.
I think if you have a e.g. 30+ mm long size socket this "may" work.
Be careful when you press in the new "slider" style adapter - make sure it looks aligned - do not think you could rotate this once it is pressed it because you cannot!
Just to verify did you remove the C clip? if this is not out you will never get the ball joint out.
This is also sometimes a challenge - I had to use a flat head screw driver to give it some gap.
You have to have the ball joint removal C clamp style unit with PROPER adapters.
If you get the proper adapters it will come out easily. It did take me a while with previous adapters that were for Honda as specified on SPC website and it pushes on the part below the ball joint which causes it to bend and want to wonder. I however managed to get both out this method.
I think if you have a e.g. 30+ mm long size socket this "may" work.
Be careful when you press in the new "slider" style adapter - make sure it looks aligned - do not think you could rotate this once it is pressed it because you cannot!
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#9
Pole Position
Man, I used to track with Chin during my days at Mid-Ohio, great group and lots of run time, that last run session where everyone goes out for an hour is awesome. Anyways, I'm with Lance here, I really think jumping to camber adjustments doesn't seem necessary for your sitch without understanding the temps across the tire and getting optimal pressures adjusted first is a recipe for disaster on a street driven vehicle. If you have no choice I understand tho, you just need to press them out. Generally though, camber is usually the next step after you have switch to stickier tires (Max performance or R-comp) and your dynamic gain is excessive with the additional grip.
#10
Tech Info Resource
iTrader: (2)
#11
I had GTE install my SPC ball joints.
I had it done to gain positive camber due to me lowering the car.
As far as track setups for our platform, I would listen to lobux and piston on this one.
I look forward to meeting you this F'ing Saturday!
I had it done to gain positive camber due to me lowering the car.
As far as track setups for our platform, I would listen to lobux and piston on this one.
I look forward to meeting you this F'ing Saturday!
#12
Driver
Thread Starter
Man, I used to track with Chin during my days at Mid-Ohio, great group and lots of run time, that last run session where everyone goes out for an hour is awesome. Anyways, I'm with Lance here, I really think jumping to camber adjustments doesn't seem necessary for your sitch without understanding the temps across the tire and getting optimal pressures adjusted first is a recipe for disaster on a street driven vehicle. If you have no choice I understand tho, you just need to press them out. Generally though, camber is usually the next step after you have switch to stickier tires (Max performance or R-comp) and your dynamic gain is excessive with the additional grip.
.
#13
Driver
Thread Starter
#14
Tech Info Resource
iTrader: (2)
Wow I gave up trying to remove ball joints and went to GTE to have them install SPC. For anyone out there trying to do this remove upper arm and use a press. Are pilots considered max performance? Car felt better to me (daily driving) with USRS. The GTE guys recommended that I set my camber. I guess that is what happens when you are ignorant. My first track day in the F went well with the SPC, USRS and PSS at AMP. Car felt pretty good.
#15
Driver
Thread Starter
You could have fixed everything with just centering the subframe. Plenty of 2IS were delivered with a camber imbalance from side to side because the subframe needed to be moved. It would also have balanced out the caster probably to dead on the money side to side. Ouch. Lotta work for something that could have been simple.