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My question is why all that work to install oem rcf bushings when you could have done superpro bushings for those as well. Why only for the arms on the diff?
I definitely did my homework and made the decision to stick with new OEM RC F diff mounts..
I am certain these will be more comfortable than potential for more added NVH..
Which I'm not looking for on my daily... Maybe I will upgrade down the road if ever needed.
These OEM should have some improvements over the older IS F design.. And as noted the LH mount is vertical.
For the pinion ears, I kept the OEM RC F mounts that were there still in perfect shape for 2015 unit.. All I added was the supplemental insert kit..
I'm more late than you. Last December acquired the OS Giken, plan was spring install, then COVID hit and I lost access to the shop where I could do the work. Now it nearing November and I have a $2k paper weight. I also grabbed a used diff, as the 350 case and gears are in far better shape than the bone yard donor, so the plan is to swap the crusty diff and install the bushings. Open my diff, swap the carrier and seals under no pressure. Then on some other weekend, swap it back. The 350 is my DD so I can't be waiting for parts.
When I bought the OSG, they wanted the VIN from my car so they could get the right seals. Sadly they shipped me the non-directional seals vs the left / right it should have came with.
I definitely did my homework and made the decision to stick with new OEM RC F diff mounts..
I am certain these will be more comfortable than potential for more added NVH..
Which I'm not looking for on my daily... Maybe I will upgrade down the road if ever needed.
These OEM should have some improvements over the older IS F design.. And as noted the LH mount is vertical.
For the pinion ears, I kept the OEM RC F mounts that were there still in perfect shape for 2015 unit.. All I added was the supplemental insert kit..
Joe Z
Question, any chatter or wheel hop from the diff winding up and unloading in this bushing set? Perhaps, too soon to tell but keep us posted.
Didn't find the time for more spirited driving just yet.. Definitely doing its job launching
Joe Z
If you had to do it all over again would you still have gone down the path you took or would you have gone with a 2010+ IS F differential? I haven't had much luck finding a later model OEM IS F LSD, but I've seen a few lower mile 2015 RC F LSDs for sale for an acceptable price.
If you had to do it all over again would you still have gone down the path you took or would you have gone with a 2010+ IS F differential? I haven't had much luck finding a later model OEM IS F LSD, but I've seen a few lower mile 2015 RC F LSDs for sale for an acceptable price.
I would still pick the newer LSD Torsen units (less miles) found on the RC F models...
99% chance you will want to upgrade or change out the diff sub frame bushings to either OEM new RC F or the SuperPro polyurethane bushings...
After months of debating and looking, I am finally part of the club, in big part thanks to Joe Z. He found a pristine 2015 RC F LSD in Michigan and it was installed by a local S. FL shop on Thursday. All of his advice made it easy and straight forward, he is a really great guy!
As far as the upgrade itself, I would highly recommend it - this is definitely how the car should have come! I will post some photos later when I get a chance.
I forgot to mention that I also had the Superpro insert kit. I do feel a bit more firmness from the back of the car on deeper highway undulations, but nothing uncomfortable. I was going to do the RSB bushings as well, but they did not come in time, I will eventually install those when I do get them.
Does it have wheel hop with the RC F bushings? The OE bushings definitely promoted wheel hop. It went away completely with the poly bushings I put in when I did my diff.
Does it have wheel hop with the RC F bushings? The OE bushings definitely promoted wheel hop. It went away completely with the poly bushings I put in when I did my diff.
So far I haven't noticed any wheel hop, but I will report back later after I have driven the car some more on different roads. I am curious if the rotation of the mounting holes was done in order to combat wheel hop, I have to imagine there was some reason for it.
