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I understand how to get to the proper temps using the OBD, but I wanted to know if I have the steps recalled correctly.
Vehicles is Cold ( Winter Morning 50 F degrees )
1.Open Fill Port
2.Open Drain Port
3.Let X quarts drain and measure amount.
4.Put X Quarts back into fill port
5. Test Temp with OBD II
Im unsure if the fill port on the IS F is also the overflow port. Someone please input me on that.
Also would it be better to drain and fill cold to get better measurements? If I was off would I have to wsit for the car to completely cool down again?
That is how I've done it cold, except I do 3 of those procedures to get more fluid out. The last drain and fill is when I check the level by temperatureOriginally Posted by OneFastF
Without all controversy, I will be doing a 4 Quart Drain and fill on the IS F. I need help though.I understand how to get to the proper temps using the OBD, but I wanted to know if I have the steps recalled correctly.
Vehicles is Cold ( Winter Morning 50 F degrees )
1.Open Fill Port
2.Open Drain Port
3.Let X quarts drain and measure amount.
4.Put X Quarts back into fill port
5. Test Temp with OBD II
Im unsure if the fill port on the IS F is also the overflow port. Someone please input me on that.
Also would it be better to drain and fill cold to get better measurements? If I was off would I have to wsit for the car to completely cool down again?
There is a fill plug on the drivers side of the transmission and a drain and a check plug on the pan
On the last drain and fill, I overfill slightly. Then let the car sit overnight then in the morning, start it and do the level check
Intermediate
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There is a fill plug on the drivers side of the transmission and a drain and a check plug on the pan
On the last drain and fill, I overfill slightly. Then let the car sit overnight then in the morning, start it and do the level check
Thanks for the valuable input! Do I have to let it sit for tomorrow morning? Or can I do a temp check and let any remaining drip out?Originally Posted by BlckGhst
That is how I've done it cold, except I do 3 of those procedures to get more fluid out. The last drain and fill is when I check the level by temperatureThere is a fill plug on the drivers side of the transmission and a drain and a check plug on the pan
On the last drain and fill, I overfill slightly. Then let the car sit overnight then in the morning, start it and do the level check
To get the new fluid into the system I was thinking of shifting its gears around ( on jack stands) to get more fluid moved around.
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This is how to do it right:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...ml#post9168165
I've done this a few times now, including dropping the pan and replacing the filter. It's a waste of time to measure what you pulled out because odds are good it's already low. If you drain the pan with the engine off, put 3 1/2 quarts in it and follow the level setting procedure. If you remove the pan and replace the filter put 5 1/2 quarts in it (half the full capacity of the system) and follow the level setting procedure. The pan gasket is an extremely durable rubber gasket, so if you really feel like you need to get more oil out, drain through the drain port, then drop the pan and put it back. Nothing else will get a larger volume of oil changed in a single pass short of replacing the torque converter.
Note the factory procedure tells you to shift through the gears before setting the fluid level to ensure all the oil galleys are full of oil, not air.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...ml#post9168165
I've done this a few times now, including dropping the pan and replacing the filter. It's a waste of time to measure what you pulled out because odds are good it's already low. If you drain the pan with the engine off, put 3 1/2 quarts in it and follow the level setting procedure. If you remove the pan and replace the filter put 5 1/2 quarts in it (half the full capacity of the system) and follow the level setting procedure. The pan gasket is an extremely durable rubber gasket, so if you really feel like you need to get more oil out, drain through the drain port, then drop the pan and put it back. Nothing else will get a larger volume of oil changed in a single pass short of replacing the torque converter.
Note the factory procedure tells you to shift through the gears before setting the fluid level to ensure all the oil galleys are full of oil, not air.
Advanced
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https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...ml#post9168165
I've done this a few times now, including dropping the pan and replacing the filter. It's a waste of time to measure what you pulled out because odds are good it's already low. If you drain the pan with the engine off, put 3 1/2 quarts in it and follow the level setting procedure. If you remove the pan and replace the filter put 5 1/2 quarts in it (half the full capacity of the system) and follow the level setting procedure. The pan gasket is an extremely durable rubber gasket, so if you really feel like you need to get more oil out, drain through the drain port, then drop the pan and put it back. Nothing else will get a larger volume of oil changed in a single pass short of replacing the torque converter.
Note the factory procedure tells you to shift through the gears before setting the fluid level to ensure all the oil galleys are full of oil, not air.
I feel like I need to print this out and show it to the SA at dealership so that they don't magically miss the mark with refill/level setting...Originally Posted by lobuxracer
This is how to do it right:https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...ml#post9168165
I've done this a few times now, including dropping the pan and replacing the filter. It's a waste of time to measure what you pulled out because odds are good it's already low. If you drain the pan with the engine off, put 3 1/2 quarts in it and follow the level setting procedure. If you remove the pan and replace the filter put 5 1/2 quarts in it (half the full capacity of the system) and follow the level setting procedure. The pan gasket is an extremely durable rubber gasket, so if you really feel like you need to get more oil out, drain through the drain port, then drop the pan and put it back. Nothing else will get a larger volume of oil changed in a single pass short of replacing the torque converter.
Note the factory procedure tells you to shift through the gears before setting the fluid level to ensure all the oil galleys are full of oil, not air.
Hello, I did the drain and refill, three quarts came out and put in a little more than three quarts back in this method was super simple and straightforward however I didnt feel comfortable with this method as it was not a good way of measuring. I did this at 60k miles.
Later on in the month I didnt feel too good and wanted to locate a dealer whose done this before and it was Lexus of riverside, I brought them 12-15 quarts (I forget) of WS fluid and spoke to SA Eric who knew all the conditions of replacing the fluid. Told him I was keeping this car for a very long time (and didnt want to use a pump to push fluid or drop the pan) and wanted to do multiple simple drain and refills and level it accordingly at the end, had to leave my car overnight but thats how I got my transmission fluid changed.
Personally, Ive driven a 160k mile Isf that has never had the transmission fluid touched and it shifted like it did day one, but it was an older man that owned the vehicle. I personally did it because I wanted to keep the car for a long time, and I know fluid especially transmission fluid where there's tons of moving parts with so much friction I had to get this replaced right away, at about 70k+ and still feels good.
On a side note, get it changed for fraction of the cost now then to have headaches down the road, its fairly cheap to simply drain and refill, then level. No dropping the pan, no messes, certainly no pumps being used to push out the fluid, its hard to mess up an easy job.
Later on in the month I didnt feel too good and wanted to locate a dealer whose done this before and it was Lexus of riverside, I brought them 12-15 quarts (I forget) of WS fluid and spoke to SA Eric who knew all the conditions of replacing the fluid. Told him I was keeping this car for a very long time (and didnt want to use a pump to push fluid or drop the pan) and wanted to do multiple simple drain and refills and level it accordingly at the end, had to leave my car overnight but thats how I got my transmission fluid changed.
Personally, Ive driven a 160k mile Isf that has never had the transmission fluid touched and it shifted like it did day one, but it was an older man that owned the vehicle. I personally did it because I wanted to keep the car for a long time, and I know fluid especially transmission fluid where there's tons of moving parts with so much friction I had to get this replaced right away, at about 70k+ and still feels good.
On a side note, get it changed for fraction of the cost now then to have headaches down the road, its fairly cheap to simply drain and refill, then level. No dropping the pan, no messes, certainly no pumps being used to push out the fluid, its hard to mess up an easy job.
Has anyone changed drain/refilled with Amsoil Signature Series Fuel-Efficient Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid?
I know that WS is recommended, but the Amsoil Trans Fluid states compatible with WS.
Thanks for anyone's input.
https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...gn=ProdSummary
I know that WS is recommended, but the Amsoil Trans Fluid states compatible with WS.
Thanks for anyone's input.
https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...gn=ProdSummary
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This process will get you close to 50% of the fluid in one step.
Drop the plug, allow to drain. Start the engine and turn off in 5 seconds. Allow that to drain. Drop the pan and filter, install new filter. Install pan and gasket.
Add 3.5 qts and start it so it picks up the fluid filling the TC. If you try to put 5 qts in without starting it, the level will be so high it will foam and may spit out the fill port. Continue filling adding back all that was taken out and maybe an extra 1/2 qt but don't let it idle too long if your fill process is slow.
In the ideal world you can run it through the gears and 50mph is plenty.
At this point begin the approved fluid check procedure by getting to temp and checking overflow.
Drop the plug, allow to drain. Start the engine and turn off in 5 seconds. Allow that to drain. Drop the pan and filter, install new filter. Install pan and gasket.
Add 3.5 qts and start it so it picks up the fluid filling the TC. If you try to put 5 qts in without starting it, the level will be so high it will foam and may spit out the fill port. Continue filling adding back all that was taken out and maybe an extra 1/2 qt but don't let it idle too long if your fill process is slow.
In the ideal world you can run it through the gears and 50mph is plenty.
At this point begin the approved fluid check procedure by getting to temp and checking overflow.
Advanced
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Later on in the month I didnt feel too good and wanted to locate a dealer whose done this before and it was Lexus of riverside, I brought them 12-15 quarts (I forget) of WS fluid and spoke to SA Eric who knew all the conditions of replacing the fluid. Told him I was keeping this car for a very long time (and didnt want to use a pump to push fluid or drop the pan) and wanted to do multiple simple drain and refills and level it accordingly at the end, had to leave my car overnight but thats how I got my transmission fluid changed.
Personally, Ive driven a 160k mile Isf that has never had the transmission fluid touched and it shifted like it did day one, but it was an older man that owned the vehicle. I personally did it because I wanted to keep the car for a long time, and I know fluid especially transmission fluid where there's tons of moving parts with so much friction I had to get this replaced right away, at about 70k+ and still feels good.
On a side note, get it changed for fraction of the cost now then to have headaches down the road, its fairly cheap to simply drain and refill, then level. No dropping the pan, no messes, certainly no pumps being used to push out the fluid, its hard to mess up an easy job.
Which dealership did you go to so I can also refer to Eric for service?Originally Posted by k20trick
Hello, I did the drain and refill, three quarts came out and put in a little more than three quarts back in this method was super simple and straightforward however I didnt feel comfortable with this method as it was not a good way of measuring. I did this at 60k miles.Later on in the month I didnt feel too good and wanted to locate a dealer whose done this before and it was Lexus of riverside, I brought them 12-15 quarts (I forget) of WS fluid and spoke to SA Eric who knew all the conditions of replacing the fluid. Told him I was keeping this car for a very long time (and didnt want to use a pump to push fluid or drop the pan) and wanted to do multiple simple drain and refills and level it accordingly at the end, had to leave my car overnight but thats how I got my transmission fluid changed.
Personally, Ive driven a 160k mile Isf that has never had the transmission fluid touched and it shifted like it did day one, but it was an older man that owned the vehicle. I personally did it because I wanted to keep the car for a long time, and I know fluid especially transmission fluid where there's tons of moving parts with so much friction I had to get this replaced right away, at about 70k+ and still feels good.
On a side note, get it changed for fraction of the cost now then to have headaches down the road, its fairly cheap to simply drain and refill, then level. No dropping the pan, no messes, certainly no pumps being used to push out the fluid, its hard to mess up an easy job.
Lexus of Riverside, Service Advisor Eric. Let em know you want the simple drain refill, without using those pumps to pump out the fluid or dropping the pan.
Like I said Ive driven a 160k mile isf that hasn't had the transmission fluid touched and it was still shifting fine, do this at your own risk or sense of security.
Like I said Ive driven a 160k mile isf that hasn't had the transmission fluid touched and it was still shifting fine, do this at your own risk or sense of security.
Quote:
Like I said Ive driven a 160k mile isf that hasn't had the transmission fluid touched and it was still shifting fine, do this at your own risk or sense of security.
Or, as pointed out earlier...take send a sample out for $30 to determine the condition of the fluid.Originally Posted by k20trick
Lexus of Riverside, Service Advisor Eric. Let em know you want the simple drain refill, without using those pumps to pump out the fluid or dropping the pan.Like I said Ive driven a 160k mile isf that hasn't had the transmission fluid touched and it was still shifting fine, do this at your own risk or sense of security.
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Drop the plug, allow to drain. Start the engine and turn off in 5 seconds. Allow that to drain. Drop the pan and filter, install new filter. Install pan and gasket.
Add 3.5 qts and start it so it picks up the fluid filling the TC. If you try to put 5 qts in without starting it, the level will be so high it will foam and may spit out the fill port. Continue filling adding back all that was taken out and maybe an extra 1/2 qt but don't let it idle too long if your fill process is slow.
In the ideal world you can run it through the gears and 50mph is plenty.
At this point begin the approved fluid check procedure by getting to temp and checking overflow.
I dropped the pan, replaced the filter and had about 5 1/2 quarts come out. I poured 5 1/2 quarts in, and did the standard level set. No issues with foaming at all, and if the level is too high, it only lasts a few seconds. FWIW, if you open the level set port (not the drain port) with the engine off, you're going to lose a lot of fluid. AMHIK. So when you start up, the level is quite a bit higher than the level set port until the gearbox moves the fluid around. I cleaned up about a quart from that mistake, and I caught it pretty quickly.Originally Posted by 2013FSport
This process will get you close to 50% of the fluid in one step.Drop the plug, allow to drain. Start the engine and turn off in 5 seconds. Allow that to drain. Drop the pan and filter, install new filter. Install pan and gasket.
Add 3.5 qts and start it so it picks up the fluid filling the TC. If you try to put 5 qts in without starting it, the level will be so high it will foam and may spit out the fill port. Continue filling adding back all that was taken out and maybe an extra 1/2 qt but don't let it idle too long if your fill process is slow.
In the ideal world you can run it through the gears and 50mph is plenty.
At this point begin the approved fluid check procedure by getting to temp and checking overflow.
Quote:
I know that WS is recommended, but the Amsoil Trans Fluid states compatible with WS.
Thanks for anyone's input.
https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...gn=ProdSummary
Originally Posted by itsmike177
Has anyone changed drain/refilled with Amsoil Signature Series Fuel-Efficient Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid?I know that WS is recommended, but the Amsoil Trans Fluid states compatible with WS.
Thanks for anyone's input.
https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...gn=ProdSummary
I am also wondering if anyone has used this before?
Quote:
I did a drain and refill with Amsoil Signature trans fluid and it seems to work fine after ~7k miles now.Originally Posted by shu5892001
I am also wondering if anyone has used this before?
Amsoil stated it's compatible with WS so it will "should" be fine.








