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^^^^The secondary flap is located in the front half of the air box. There HPS, the JoeZ, and the Takeda are the only aftermarket intake systems, that I'm aware of, that retain the secondary flap.
Lou
RRRacing and Lems does as well or basically any intake elbow or short ram if you perfer the term.
Lems is super expensive but titanium resists heat better than aluminum or mild steel so that's a bonus.
I have a custom "Unobtanium" titanium intake, I think he has a price for them on his Facebook page "Unobtanium welding"
Also I always hear about the oil from the filter ruining the MAF but it's always " I heard about it happening to a guy" never "it happened to me" so I take that with a grain of salt I have had a K&N filter on about 15 different vehicles in the last 20 years and haven't had a single issue but that being said I have an AFE dry filter on the ISF but just because I thought I would try something different and I can't say it's better or worse but if you're a fear monger the dry filter will help you sleep better at night.
Agree about the K&N filters. Personally, I believe the issues occur after the owners clean/re-oil the filters, and apply too much.
Whilst I know K&N filters can last a very long time if maintained correctly, I tend to replace my panel filters every 12 months or so. They aren't exactly expensive, and it gives me peace of mind.
Can't say I noticed any improvements with the AFE either, but I wouldn't expect any to be honest.
It's time to clean my filter, and I don't think my intake came with a dry filter. My kit came with a blue filter, and it resembles AFE's oiled filters.Can someone confirm?
I am using takeda kit now (my old set up was joe z+blitz drop in) actually i didnt notice any power loss on high rpm,but gained alot of low end torque (the car feels light below 3600rpm,it feels like when you do the flap mod)
I am still using the takeda now,and probably modify it soon (install an apexi cone filter and modify the intake box by enclosing it since the apexi cone filter is smaller but still keeping a 85mm diameter opening)
I thought of modifying it because the only reason i read about the takeda losing power is because of heat soak....so im looking for a solution to completely seal the intake box
I got the RR titanium pipe and replaced the panel filter with an apexi dry filter. The RR intake will also come with external breather tubes for the valve covers so they don't cycle back into the intake
Update on the Takeda. I've had mine for 6 years now, and replaced the filter yesterday.
The new filter is not dry, It is AFE's new oiled cotton gauze filter. Described by AFE as:
With five layers of progressively finer mesh cotton gauze media between 100% polyurethane top and base, this high flow “oiled” inverted conical performance filter provides excellent airflow for maximum horsepower and torque. Washable and reusable for multiple cleanings, the tall, open, evenly spaced pleats provide excellent dust holding capacity for longer service cycle between cleanings. Pliable polyurethane flange with integrated bumps insures tight, no leak seal over the life of the filter.
Also, unlike my original dry filter which had a flat top, this filter has an inverted filter media in the top section which would allow more air flow.
And note - I had a K&N oiled panel filter prior to the Takeda and never had a problem with the MAF. If common sense is used when oiling the media, there should not be an issue.
Lou
Last edited by flowrider; Jun 9, 2016 at 12:25 PM.
anyone ever tested or had a friendly race between 2 isf,1 with a drop in,1 with a takeda.....this way we can really see the difference...not just by dyno
didnt multiple dynos from different members show you drop in power with an intake ? I was under the impression that the oem is best or aFe with the HPS and even then we are talking a couple of HP ( within the noise ). Seems like a check list mod. Something to simply add to the list that doesnt do much.
didnt multiple dynos from different members show you drop in power with an intake ? I was under the impression that the oem is best or aFe with the HPS and even then we are talking a couple of HP ( within the noise ). Seems like a check list mod. Something to simply add to the list that doesnt do much.
In my opinion,dyno and running on the street is different....take for example the wind thats going in the engine when you are running 60-100mph....i dont think the industrial fans can supply as much....so our cars will act differently on the streets....you can have a 400whp car dyno tuned and get beaten by a 350whp street tuned car....i've seen this scenario many many times during my mr2 days
Just switched from takeda to drop in(blitz)....the car runs smoother with the rr-tune+drop in....
Tune+takeda=low rpm seems like the air and fuel mixture dont match and the car feels a bit heavier in low rpm
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