Guys, i'm sorry if this info is already here. I've searched over and over and can only find DIY on FRONT pads/rotors, not REAR. Is the process similar, the same, or different? I've read there's something for the e-brake on the rear that needs to be addressed.

Dealer is once again, hosing me on pads and rotors.. i've had enough!

Thanks!

 

How many miles on your car since last rear brake change?

There are multiple people here who have tracked the car and are still on original rear rotors.

 

Keyes Lexus Van Nuys

Cars has 40k miles.. Tracked 2x.. They made me change FRONT rotors at 30k.. Now they want to change the rear.

Front pads changed at: 15k, 30k
Rear pads changed at: 20k

 

I searched the interwebz also and haven't found any DIY for rear rotor replacement for the ISF.
I've got all new rotors and pads to install, and any install guidance for rear rotors would be helpful. I'm assuming there is some sort of rotary adjuster for the parking brake that will need to be backed off before the rear rotor can be removed? It would be nice to know which way to back off / tighten, how many clicks or turns to back off / tighten and so on...

This thread has lots of info for front brake replacement:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...ke-rotors.html

if there is no pics and info for rear rotor change currently, then I suppose i can take pics while I do mine, to contribute.

 

You won't need to do anything with the parking brake if you have never adjusted it at the wheel. Even if you have, they don't wear much unless you apply it frequently while driving.

Rears are pretty much identical to fronts except they have no bridge bolt. Just drive the pins out to remove the pads, and unbolt the caliper if you need to remove the disc. The same bolt you use to pop off the front rotor will work on the back too.

FWIW, I have 110k on my car and at least 6 track weekends. I am still on my original rear rotors and Carbotech street pads. They're getting tired now, and will likely be due for a change, but they've never cracked, or even got very hot at all.

 

Hi There!

To add to lobuxracer's suggestion: according to your stated usage, the wear seems a bit high for the rear rotors. It would be helpful if you can share the details that were provided by the dealer for the estimated thickness of the rotor.

If you have a few minutes, and you are able to remove the rear wheels - do check the thickness of the pad material on both the inside and outside pads on each side and measure the rotor thickness. Please also check for any unusual wear patterns on the surfaces (both inside and outside surface of the rotors). If you are willing, do invest a few dollars in a digital caliper to check min. thickness, since you are occasionally tracking your car. Harbor freight has fairly inexpensive digital calipers!

If you need access to the repair manuals in the future to help you with confidence during the DIY (especially helpful for torque values, etc), I believe you can download them from TIS: https://techinfo.toyota.com

I'll allow lobuxracer to help confirm this.

Regards,

AR
SpeedFreaksUSA.com

 

Remove the pins containing the pads/spring, remove pads, unbolt 2 bolts holding caliper to hub, change rotor and reassemble as disassembled then bleed.

 

110k on the original rotors? Really? I haven't measured mine yet but being at 70k I figured I would be due soon. I guess not...

 

I replaced my rear Rotors this weekend, I'll add some more info to this thread:

- Rear caliper bolts use 14mm socket (instead of the 15mm for the fronts)
-14mm shallow socket with a breaker bar works great for removal. 14mm Deep with the torque wrench works best for installing.
- Use the same 2 M8x1.25 bolts to remove the brake rotor (same as fronts)
- As stated, there is no bridge bolt on the caliper, just the 2 pins.

To access parking brake shoe adjuster:
-Driver side: pop out the rubber grommet on the hat of the brake disc, this is your parking brake adjuster access hole.
-Rotate the brake disc so the access hole is in the 3-o'clock position.
-with a flashlight, look through the access hole, there should be a spoked ratcheting wheel for the park brake shoe adjustment
- use a flathead screwdriver to "poke" the ratchet wheel. one direction tightens the brake shoes, the other loosens (sorry I cant remember which is which right now)
-once the parking shoes are backed off, then you can pop off the rotor

Passenger side is the same, except the brake will have to be rotated so the access hole is in the 9-o'clock position

 

There is no 15mm bolt anywhere on an IS F or anything Toyota. Front bridge bolt is 13mm and that is very weird for anything Japanese, but I know for sure there are no 15mm bolts anywhere on an IS F. 15mm is Euro/US spec.

 

Keyes is expensive. Decent quality work though when they replaced my headlights. Right now, I'm just going through them for warranty work only. They will put the oem parts on your car (since you can get them cheaper elsewhere) and just charge for labor. They quote me $266 for labor on replacing the front pads which included machining the rotors. $202 just to replace the pads. Still higher than doing it yourself.

 

My mistake, it was 17mm socket size on the fronts, not 15mm.. Correct?

 

Sounds more like it.

I actually had a thought about starting a thread to help people new to the F who do their own work and identify the unusual sizes for things, plus cover the basics - 8, 10, 12, 14, 17, 19, 21 (wheel lugs only), and 22mm are your friends for most everything Toyota. The F has 13mm bolts on the front brake bridge bolt. The differential is held in by three 12mm hex bolts, so you need a very large hex socket to remove/install these bolts (or you can cut a short section out of a 12mm hex key and use a 12mm socket with it). The drain bolts on the differential are 10mm hex, but every 3/8" drive metric hex socket set includes this size, just no 12mm unless you go 1/2" drive. The fill bolt on the transmission is 24mm, and you really want a very shallow one at that. You'll need three torque wrenches - a small one for 6 x 1 stuff, medium for a whole lot of 8mm and 10mm bolts, and a big one (up to 200 ft-lbs) for the big chassis bolts. If you ever decide to get deep into the engine, you'll need the classic Lexus 10mm bihexagon socket for the head bolts.

As always, TIS has a host of specialized tools for many tasks, most of which you can work around. It's pretty rare when you can't but the head bolts and differential bolts will be work stoppage until the correct tools are procured.

 

Apologies for bringing this old thread up from the dead.

Does anyone know if the rear rotors are fitted to any other mass produced vehicle on the market, besides the RC-F and GS-F (albeit slotted instead of drilled?

 

For slotted rotors-
https://www.brakenetic.com/