StraySheep

iTrader: (1)

I use motul 8100 5w-40 synthetic.

willys4

That's what I'll be using too. Btw. Wher in Ontario r u in?

bluerex

^this, i would say amsoil then mobil 1..

bluerex

walmart has the mobil 1 5w30 for 25 bucks for a 5 quart jug. thats all i use in the CTS-V, LS430 (sold) and my wifes tacoma.

cant beat it!

boostftw

iTrader: (3)

^same here, walmart mobile1 FTW!

CarbonISF

Amsoil 5w30 and Amsoil filter. Took it to a local Toyota dealer who was happy to do it for $18 and has the right filter wrench (Tundra? is the same). The guy was cool with letting me watch... I'm always curious if they even change the filter...

22,000KM on the last change. Generally change the oil and brake fluid before the summer or track.

DocEyes

iTrader: (1)

I used Motul 300V in my modded STi. I drove that like I stole it. Overkill I have no doubt, but I'll continue using it in the F when it needs the first fluid change.

ming15237

iTrader: (3)

When people talk of which oil to use and engines being "pushed" or "run hard" the best test I know of that simulates this is the "tfout" test. Here is a link to it http://www.steffysgarage.com/downloads/BGChart.pdf this is what I would do on my own vehicle if I did not have access to BG's synthetic motor oil, or their MOA additive. I would pick the oil that did the best on this list and use it. I would change that oil at the manufactures recommended oil change intervals also known as "OCI" and I would sleep very well at night. A little background on me, I am a certified ASE master tech, and own a fairly large 5 bay shop in the Pittsburgh PA area employing 1 other master level tech and two other ASE certified techs. We process slightly over 150 vehicles a week, on average 64% of the vehicles processed receive a oil change with BG's MOA additive. We have not had one single vehicle have an engine oil related failure while the BG additive was being used in the last 13 years. We have had customers go for over 24k miles on an oiled change in a 1998 jeep grand Cherokee, and this vehicle although down 5 quarts of oil still did not fail. We recently had a vehicle with the incorrect oil filter installed on it during an oil change, this vehicle traveled 175 miles with NO oil flow, this vehicle also had a defective oil warning lamp bulb. That being said the vehicle was returned to our shop for an engine ticking noise, which was due to collapsed oil lifters due to a lack of pressure. We discovered the mistake, and corrected this with the correct oil filter. The vehicle was driven 3k and oil was sent to black stone labs, and then again for another 3k and re tested, ALL samples came back as normal. This to me, and those whom are employed by us is a true testament to their products. This all being said, I would have no problems running ANY major oil manufacturer in my vehicles and changing it at the recommended intervals. I personally use their synthetic oil, and their additive. Hope this helps all who look the time to read it.

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

Without actual data - from Blackstone or some other reputable oil analysis firm - all these suggestions are worthless. They're based on observing a lack of failures. Of course changing oil on the manufacturer's schedule will preclude damage. It will also cost you a lot more money than if you do what ALL the large engine makers tell their engineers to do when they're contemplating a 100 gallon oil change - send the oil for analysis and change when the TBN goes under 1.0.

Cars have tiny engines. Most have tiny oil pans with 4 - 6 quarts in them. Because ours holds 10 quarts, oil analysis starts to make economic sense where the smaller units do not. I've proved beyond any reasonable doubt that a 12k mile OCI with Mobil 1 will not cause any abnormal wear and tear on the 2UR-GSE. I've also posted it for all to see. Most importantly, I've spent less than half the money I would have spent on oil and less than half the cost of an oil change validating the OCI I use with the added benefit of having the engine's wear characteristics documented from the very first oil change. I'd take a UOA history over service records any day. Service records just show you followed a schedule. UOA shows the engine is in good shape without any question.

Even on a very hot day, the oil temperature in my F has never gone up to the top bar on the oil temperature gauge - and I'm talking on the track running mostly WOT for the better part of four 30 minute sessions with OAT at 102F. Even then, there was ZERO evidence of accelerated wear even with a 12k mile change interval on Mobil 1 5w-30 bought from Wal-Mart in 5 quart jugs.

So, truthfully, I don't think it matters what oil you run if you are willing to have it analyzed and set your OCI based on the lab results. I do know some oils don't like heat more than others and synthetics handle heat better, but if you don't track your car, you'll never see the kind of temperatures lesser oils can't handle, and if you test them to be sure you're not exceeding their useful service life, you'll be fine and so will your car.

Further evidence for the skeptics - valve train pictures from the valve lash check I did on my engine at ~62k miles (and while I think it's pretty unlikely a valve adjustment is necessary, how many of you guys following the "manufacturer's recommendations" for OCI performed this manufacturer recommended check at 60k miles?)



Note the complete lack of varnish inside the valve train cover.



Note the complete lack of varnish on the valve train.

We can argue this all day long, but I have documented proof. Anyone else have this?

SeanGTS

iTrader: (1)

Always good to see you post Lobux.

ming15237

iTrader: (3)

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...hetic-oil.html

Above is a link to some pictures I have posted of other vehicles we have done with extended OCI's. it is more about the type of driving you do than what brand of oil you use. Short drive cycles are horrible on oil. The type of driving Lance is speaking of on the track is in fact better i the oil than city driving is. Also the weather you have is a significant variable in this equation. In Pennsylvania we have extremes, 100 in the summers, and 0 degrees in the winter. This is why the manufactures set their intervals where they do, because they can not predict how the end user will use their product.

K3RRYB

iTrader: (7)

IMO there is much better, and you can buy it at Walmart!

GoGiantsNJ

The Lexus dealers I have gone to the Techs all recommend synthetic oil for my '12 RX-350, and my Wife's '12 IS-250.

ming15237

iTrader: (3)

Because its money in the bank for them! If these vehicles are serviced regularly, and at the recommended intervals, there is little benefit to it, I am not saying NONE, I am saying little. Neither of these vehicles are run on a track and none of them tow, so the perceived benefit is in your head only.

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

I disagree with the bold section. The manufacturers set their OCI to ensure they will not get oil related warranty failures, and most importantly for Lexus - it costs them nothing to make this recommendation because the owner is picking up the tab.

BMW and Mercedes are on the hook for maintenance, so they've adopted a cost/benefit model resulting in the issues seen in your pictures. The key thing to remember, a manufacturers' goal is minimum out of their pockets to get you through warranty without a claim. The Germans are accepting there will be more failures with the OCI model they've chosen, but the reduced cost of maintaining the fleet to Lexus standards justifies their strategy. Add to this many of the owners will not suffer oil related failures until well after the warranty has expired (and more of them are likely to have issues long term), and their sales model has been leasing for a very long time. All this means they're doing better faster cheaper for them, but not better longer more reliable for their owners.

The single biggest factor is whether the oil gets up to temperature on the average drive or not. If it doesn't the oil will break down much faster and use up the base (TBN - total base number) in the oil which counteracts the acids from blowby dissolved and condensing inside the block. When you run your engine on cold cycle all the time, the humidity condenses inside the block, dissolves acids in the blowby gases, and runs them right on top of the oil in the pan. If the oil never gets hot enough to vaporize the water, the acids and the water work to break down the oil. So short drives on cold cycle are the worst thing you can do to your oil. Short drives in very cold weather are the worst of the worst.

So it all comes back to choosing your OCI based on analysis results if you want to get the most out of your oil for the way you drive regardless of it being synthetic or dinosaur based.