I looked on Sewell's fluid capacity chart and it doesn't list brake fluid on there, and I can't find it anywhere in the manual.

 

This thread is complete comedy. Really? $7 difference is "expensive"? What about if your brakes fail and your car slams into a wall like my friend with his ACR Viper at Sebring that ended up totalled? $7 will seem pretty cheap then.

You guys crack me up with being cheap about silly things.

If you REALLY want cheap but good brake fluid, buy the Ford OEM stuff. It's really cheap and really good at the same time.

 

lol...

With my fluid switch I've almost doubled the boiling point. Besides, I've seen you in many threads mentioning cooking the brakes has little to do with the fluid and more to do with pad selection......

 

Or leaving the stability control on at a tight track and driving with them intervening for a quarter lap every circuit.

 

I bought two bottles AP brake fluide and went to flush my fluid. The mechanic told me they can't do it since they didn't have the machine to drain the ABS system.
Is that true? Do I need to flush the ABS as well, or is it enough just to drain the old fluide and replace it with a new one?

 

Bumping this post to see if this is true or not.

 

^^^^No it's complete and utter BS: Can't believe I missed this the first time around

http://www.autos.com/car-maintenance...k-brake-system

Lou

 

There is one caveat to this - if someone is foolish enough to fully drain the brake system and needs to start from zero, you will need to actuate the valves in the ABS controller to purge them of any trapped air. This is easy with Techstream, but not easy without it.

There is no reason in the world for anyone to fully drain a working brake system. EVER. If you damaged a hard line and had to replace it, you might need to bleed the ABS this way. Otherwise, the guy you are talking to does not understand what you need. It's just a simple suck out the old fluid from the reservoir, replace it with fresh fluid, and pump it through the system as if you were bleeding brakes normally. That's all any of us have done and we've had zero issues with our brake systems.

 

Hi Lobux,
I got my 60k service coming up and one of the requirements in the manual states to replace the brake fluid. Under specifications it states SAE J1703 or FMVSS No.116 Dot 3. More than likely I will purchasing the Project Mu HC800 set of pads from speedfreaks. I don't track my car but I daily it and drive it hard. I looked up charts on the SAE or FMVSS, correct me if I'm wrong is it all just Dot 3? I notice speedfreaks sells fluid that goes with the brand of pads, like Project Mu brake fluid, Endless brake fluid, and I notice it isn't Dot 3? What would you recommend?

 

The first time you end up off the track, you'll wish you had this stuff. Lobux is too correct. You will regret the day you hit a wall because you were cheap. I was on a cool down lap coming down the straight, I went to hit the brakes and nothing, right to the floor. Thank God I was cooling down and not on another hot lap, it would have been game over. This is top shelf hands down.
http://www.frsport.com/Endless-RF650...e_p_38190.html

Used as a factory fill for all Porsche cup cars and in Mercedes F1

 

DOT3 or DOT4 is OK. The 4 has a higher temperature rating, which explains why all performance fluid is listed as DOT4. Within that designation there's fluids with higher heat tolerance and fluid that just meet the min. spec. to be in that category. Don't worry if the owner's manual only mentions DOT3, the system is also DOT4 compatible.

Motul 600, ATE200, Castrol SRF, wilwood, etc. offer quality fluid. I've personally had success with Motul and ATE fluids, but others love Castrol and other brands. Go castrol if you want to drain once a year, tracking often OR go Motul/ATE if you don't plan on tracking often and want to save some money. Just my opinion, take it with a grain of salt

 

DOT 4 is a higher standard than DOT 3. We carry and offer the brake fluids we do because they are some of the best options commercially available and all of them play nice with the materials in your street car's braking system.

More aggressive pads (like the HC+800) are capable of dealing with much higher temps than the OE pads and so they can put more heat into the fluid. If you upgrade the pads without doing anything else, the fluid will more often than not become the weakest link. Having pads fade is frustrating but having the pedal go to the floor because the fluid boiled is much worse. This is why we like to offer the Project Mu G-Four 335, Endless RF-650, or Performance Friction RH665 to go along with your pad upgrade. Flush it with the good stuff and you don't have to worry about a soft or missing pedal when you're charging into a braking zone at speed

-Matt M.

 

I couldn't agree more! Endless RF-650 is liquid gold It is the only brake fluid to my knowledge considered good enough to be used in the top tiers of motorsport like F1 and WRC that is also (relatively speaking) widely available to the general pubic. I flushed my father's B8 S4 with RF-650 roughly 1.5 years ago and it's still going strong with mixed (mostly aggressive) street and track use. Truly amazing stuff. The Project Mu G-Four 335 and PFC RH665 are tied for a very close second in my opinion, we have had a lot of success with those fluids as well.

-Matt M.

 

The manual calls for Dot 3? Is this based on the OEM pads or the brake system? I'm just trying to understand...

 

I ran the dot 3 no problem with stock rotors and pads. I then switched to carbotech pads and on my first day out, I boiled my fluid. The dot 3 could not handle the friction and heat the carbotech pads produced. I since then flushed out the brake system with tech stream using endless 650 and have not a problem since. This fluid is incredible.

There are some types of fluid that will destroy your system so I advise caution when selecting.