Small problem. The IS F has a V-8. 2UR-GSE, not the V-6 in the RX. The 400 watt unit to fit the 2UR-GSE is (even though Amazon says no) https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Sorry for any confusion my post caused and thank you for clarifying. The described location sounded so similar to my own that I assumed, incorrectly, the motors were the same.

 

A side view, out of the vehicle... the hole is right where the driver's side cylinder head and transmission bolt to the block, just below that big silver bolt and behind the squiggly wire thingy.

 

What about running an oil pan heater? The coolant on these cars is up to temp after a few minutes of driving in the winter (starting from a garage at ~+20F over ambient), but the the oil can take 10-15 minutes to hit a reasonable temp, even longer to be at full operating.

 

That's a reasonable question, but here's the scoop: we have an oil/coolant heat exchanger from the factory. When the oil is cooler than the coolant, heat goes into the oil. If the coolant is near operating temperature at start, the oil is going to get heated right away and reduce the time to full operating temperature. At least, that's the idea. I haven't been able to test it because I haven't put the heater I bought into the block. At least now I know where to look to install it!

I know how long it takes to heat 10 US quarts of oil, and even in Atlanta in the winter it can take a full 30 minutes to get to normal operating temperature. I am hoping to cut that in half (or less) with the block heater. It should also significantly improve cold cycle fuel economy by making cold cycle shorter.

 

Yeah, it's a very dynamic heat transfer problem with several factors...and my heat transfer and thermodynamics classes were over 20yrs ago! I forgot I was also in the IS F forum too. Was thinking of my GS F which I believe may have slightly different setup (larger dedicated oil cooler). Ideally you want to start with a warm block, warm coolant, and warm oil. Oil just takes so much longer.

 

Yes indeed, oil takes a lot longer to get heated. The GS F actually has oil/water and oil/air heat exchangers with a thermovalve on the line to the oil/air unit to prevent it from over cooling the oil. The extra capacity is a great idea for track duty, but probably hardly even opens on the street. I've never seen unusual oil temperatures in the IS F on the street, but I've seen 275F at the track in 102F heat. That's approaching or exceeding thermal breakdown numbers for the vast majority of oil available to the public for automotive use, so the additional cooling capacity on the RC F and GS F is definitely welcome if you're tracking these cars.

 

run 0-20 in our daily drivers
12 yaris
12 mdx

years ago i had a 97 Olds Aurora i think it took about 8 quarts
(I thought that was a lot of oil)

in shrinkage freezing weather I cooked the starter motor

after that repair .. i went 0-20 and found minimal stress on the starter as the oil could flow better

my findings... 0-20 helps more than a block heater
ubless you can get 120v to plug in wherever you park

(Ottawa Ontario Canada winters.. fun fun)

 

Lobuxracer, is this for sure the correct zerostart part to purchase? I'm on the fence of paying 100+ at the dealer when I can easily order something for Amazon.

Cheers my man

 

I did a ton of homework on this before I purchased and yes, it is the right part for sure.

 

Thank you!