Here's the info on the Cadillac front wheel bearings. They're made by SKF.

http://evolution.skf.com/zino.aspx?articleID=15103

I'd really like to find a way to fit these to the F, but I suspect it would be far from simple, and would likely require a custom steering knuckle. The only good news about a custom knuckle is you would be able to adjust the camber curves without screwing up the basic suspension geometry (save scrub radius). Other than that, it's a complete nightmare from a cost and reliability perspective.

 

I think I am having this same problem. The issue started like around 9k miles. I didn't hear the noise until 14k but the car felt it was off balance. The noise is hard to hear by anyone. Only the driver and the person who knows what they are listening for can hear it. The exhaust sound doesn't help. Tire noises gets worst and I was told it was due to my tires. Bought new tires and one of the quietest ones too and still a lot of noise. The road been repave around my way so it can't be the road. Been back and forth with the dealer with this. Hopefully this is still cover under warranty. I am at 32k miles now.

 

How much are they to replace out off warranty

 

Not sure if this my bearing or I am in need of tire balancing, but my F isn't my daily driver, so if I drive the F after it sits for a few days on the highway, I feel a ridiculous vibration on my right wheel. I don't see bubbles in my tires and it looks properly inflated. This just happens for a minute or so and goes away afterwards.

 

Most likely a flat spot is occurring on the tire from sitting for periods between driving. Once the tire warms up and regains shape the vibration goes away. Just a thought.

 

ur cure would be to drive the car more. lol stop being a garage queen. if u have a bearing problem it would be making a metal groaning noise.

 

When my passenger side wheel bearing failure happened it did not make any metal or grinding noises. It was a massive vibration/ violent shaking when steering the opposite way from TDC steering wheel position. It started small (like I threw a wheel weight) and progressively became worse over a few days. With the steering wheel in TDC it was not even noticeable. As soon as I veered 2 degrees to the left, it would start thumping.

I have had wheel bearing go on other cars, where there was metal grinding noises - In my situation, this was really weird, and had me guessing at tires and rims as the likely culprit. A quick diagnosis at the dealer revealed wheel bearing.

Your experience may be different.

 

Checking for bad wheel bearing jack up the side you think it's bad, grasp one of the front tires at the 12 & 6 o'clock position and rock it in and out. Any free play in or out movement may point to a worn wheel bearing.

 

same here, they keep on tellin me its my tires. im like this is one of the quiet tires you can get. they are brand new but for some reason it sounds like my worned out bridgestones i just replaced when i drive with them. the sound is gettin worst i believe.

i heard of this method but never had the opportunity to try it, i will try it tomorrow and see.

 

Lance,

You opinion still stand on the OEM hubs from your quote back in 2011?.........would you also still consider the Timken an upgrade from the OEM hubs?

 

Interesting to see a resurrection of an old thread.

I haven't not dealt with the Timken versus the OE bearings in this particular application. However, on our road race use Camry (1999, and laugh, but it'll outrun a stock F easily on track), a Timken won't make it one race, and the OEM will last us a season.

Regarding the comment earlier from "vraa" on about tapping brakes, I think he was looking for "pad knock back." Was a known issue on the STI's up front, and C-clip rear end cars suffer from it terribly. Watch a CMC race and you'll see everyone tap the brakes 2~3 times mid to end of straight prior to the braking zone; becomes second nature. But yes, for the same reason. As the hub moves/flexes (be it from the bearing, hub, knuckle, or axle shifting), the rotor pushes the pads in and depresses the brake cylinders. So you need to pump them back up to get to the correct depth. Kind of like when you first change brake pads and have to pump up the brakes.

 

Interesting maybe it's a Toyota thing in regards to OE bearings. I've read quite a few threads on bearings and some guys years ago had some issues with the stock bearings going out quite early. Like Lobux said bearings are a maintenance item and subject to individual driving styles. Anyhow my bearings/front end at above 50 mph are sounding like a helicopter/oscillating humming noise and trying to decipher if it's the tires (Michelin PS4S w/18k on them) or my bearings up front. I think I might just do the bearings as a preventative measure considering they have 116k on them and it wouldn't hurt to have new ones on.

 

I wouldn't call them an upgrade. They're made in Japan, just like the OE hubs, but I don't know what bearings they have installed and I'm not planning to remove the speed sensor to find out. I'm pretty confident the OE bearings are Koyo, but what Timken has in these is anyone's guess. Because they're made in Japan, it's unlikely they're using Chinese bearings. Anything else will be Chinese and of doubtful quality for track use. Probably OK for street, but very likely to be short lived on the track.

I have not installed the Timken yet, I've been hesitating because I haven't had any issues with the OE hubs yet even with track use and 185k on the odometer. They're still tight when I check them.

I don't have track experience with Timken, but they've been a quality bearing supplier for many years. If these are not quality, it will be the end of my relationship with them, but I grew up with their bearings on our racecars in the 60's and 70's.