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Reconsidering the Factory Alignment

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Old Jan 4, 2012 | 09:49 PM
  #136  
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NONE OF THIS DISCUSSION IS TO CORRECT A DRIFT PROBLEM. My car has never had a right or left pull. The purpose of this thread is to document wear patterns with different toe settings in hopes of finding a good street setting for maximum tire life. If the car pulls left or right, you have problems unrelated to toe.
thanks for the clarification. I wasn't meaning to imply that the toe was causing the vehicle to drift right. But I was thinking that the uneven tire wear was contributing.

Thanks again
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Old Feb 14, 2012 | 09:45 AM
  #137  
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Originally Posted by lobuxracer
No. The rear works fine with the stock settings. Only the front is problematic.
So going for zero toe on the front is good?? My wife's stock 2010 RWD IS 250, front left inside is getting really thin at only 25K. Front right is not to far behind it.

Thanks!!

Last edited by BHMTitan; Feb 14, 2012 at 10:00 AM.
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Old Feb 18, 2012 | 07:32 PM
  #138  
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Originally Posted by Evil Teo
make sure they have a print out so we can take a look at what

they did and if you need any subframe adjustments.
Went in to the dealer because the car was drifting to the right. Well, here's my alignment printout. I asked for 1/16" front total toe-in and 1/8" rear total toe-in. I guess I got half of what I wanted. The printouts show "degrees," but i think it's in inches for the toe. I don't know why the tech didn't bother to match the camber. They did install the camber brackets for the front per the service bulletin.

The first photo is before the brackets were installed. The second is after installation. What do you guys think? Will these settings save my tires?

BTW, the car still drifts to the right, but not as much as before. If I hold the steering wheel straight, it will go straight. But, if I let go, it'll drift to the right.
Attached Thumbnails Reconsidering the Factory Alignment-wheel-alignment-initial.jpg   Reconsidering the Factory Alignment-wheel-alignment-final.jpg  

Last edited by Cleo; Feb 18, 2012 at 11:51 PM.
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Old Feb 18, 2012 | 08:53 PM
  #139  
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Originally Posted by Cleo
Went in to the dealer because the car was drifting to the right. Well, here's my alignment printout. I asked for 1/16" front total toe-in and 1/8" rear total toe-in. I guess I got half of what I wanted. The printouts show "degrees," but i think it's in inches for the toe. I don't know why the tech didn't bother to match the camber. They did install the camber brackets for the front per the service bulletin.

The first photo is before the brackets were installed. The second is after installation. What do you guys think? Will these settings save my tires?
cambers can't be adjusted! ur toe is fine. it looks like u need to adjust ur subframe though.
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Old Feb 18, 2012 | 11:54 PM
  #140  
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Originally Posted by Evil Teo
cambers can't be adjusted! ur toe is fine. it looks like u need to adjust ur subframe though.
Camber can't be adjusted? wth?

Subframe needs adjustment because my cross-camber is too much or because of the included angle difference? Would adjusting the subframe lower the cross-camber?
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Old Feb 19, 2012 | 04:57 AM
  #141  
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Any comments from you experts

Lou
Attached Thumbnails Reconsidering the Factory Alignment-lou-s-alignment-2-13-12.jpg  
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Old Feb 19, 2012 | 09:30 AM
  #142  
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^^^^
Your setup looks a lot better than mine. At least your cambers match up.
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Old Feb 19, 2012 | 05:30 PM
  #143  
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Lou how is ur tires wearing? I think ur setup is good.
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Old Feb 19, 2012 | 06:04 PM
  #144  
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Numbers look good. The proof is in the pudding - how is it wearing?

My inside edge wear seems to have slowed quite a bit since the last adjustment inward (closer to zero, might even be slight toe in.)

I still have a suspicion if we were to replace the rear LCA bushing with something harder, or even a spherical bearing, we'd see a lot less inside edge wear problems even running a little toe out as I would prefer. I think Lexus put a too soft fluid filled bushing in that spot that didn't get upgraded when they built the F. It should have been changed to provide better toe control.
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Old Feb 20, 2012 | 07:12 AM
  #145  
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Originally Posted by Cleo
Went in to the dealer because the car was drifting to the right. Well, here's my alignment printout. I asked for 1/16" front total toe-in and 1/8" rear total toe-in. I guess I got half of what I wanted. The printouts show "degrees," but i think it's in inches for the toe. I don't know why the tech didn't bother to match the camber. They did install the camber brackets for the front per the service bulletin.

The first photo is before the brackets were installed. The second is after installation. What do you guys think? Will these settings save my tires?

BTW, the car still drifts to the right, but not as much as before. If I hold the steering wheel straight, it will go straight. But, if I let go, it'll drift to the right.


Well I can tell you the cars pulling to the right because the camber is lower on that side. Camber really needs to be closer to even from side to side. I had this issue as well and didn't solve it until I got a front camber kit.
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Old Feb 20, 2012 | 07:16 AM
  #146  
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I find if your running a bit of toe in you will be slowing the inner wear on the IS. This was what I did for my IS250 just recently since I was running 0.00 toe I was wearing the insides out. So trying toe in should be alot better when it comes to even wear.

I would say something like 0.05 toe in the front and 0.00 toe in the rear. I ran 0.00 toe in the rear and only got a tiny bit of inner tire wear.

Last edited by CarbonDtls; Feb 20, 2012 at 07:35 AM.
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Old Feb 20, 2012 | 09:17 AM
  #147  
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I have more of these coming. Just one in stock right now
http://shopfigs.com/v1/index.php?rou...&product_id=99


I also have an offset version.

I plan on testing the caster angle and tire wear with this over the next few months.

Lobux, replacing the rear LCA with the spherical makes the entire suspension much quicker to settle and locate with trapping ernergy in that bushing. I was not aware that any bushing was fluid filled. Do you know that for sure?
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Old Feb 20, 2012 | 09:50 AM
  #148  
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Originally Posted by Cleo
Subframe needs adjustment because my cross-camber is too much or because of the included angle difference? Would adjusting the subframe lower the cross-camber?
Anyone have a response?
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Old Feb 20, 2012 | 12:24 PM
  #149  
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Originally Posted by CarbonDtls
Well I can tell you the cars pulling to the right because the camber is lower on that side. Camber really needs to be closer to even from side to side. I had this issue as well and didn't solve it until I got a front camber kit.
By lower, you mean less negative (which is actually a higher value)?

Everything else seems symmetrical except for the cross-camber. My .01 thrust angle shouldn't be a problem. I'm hoping that a subframe adjustment will do it...if the dealer is willing to do it...
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Old Feb 20, 2012 | 03:44 PM
  #150  
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Originally Posted by FIGS
...Lobux, replacing the rear LCA with the spherical makes the entire suspension much quicker to settle and locate with trapping ernergy in that bushing. I was not aware that any bushing was fluid filled. Do you know that for sure?
100% sure it's fluid filled. It's in the New Car Features.

Originally Posted by 2008 ISF New Car Features
Front Suspension Lower Arm Assembly
  • The front suspension lower arms are made of high tensile sheet steel for weight reduction.
  • A two-way split construction is used in the bushing in lower arm No.1. A preload pressure is applied axially to the rubber flange to increase its rigidity in the longitudinal direction.
  • A large diameter liquid filled type bushing is used for the lower arm No.2 bushing for optimal vibration and harshness control
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