There is always the possibility of a faulty dyno... but it is bit too easy to shoot the messenger...

Two areas you may want to check: the MAF sensor in the intake and the O2 sensors in the exhaust (it is a big no-no to use any kind of lube to help remove the O2 sensors as it will contaminate the sensors, mess up readings big time and can lead to big HP loss).

You can get a can of MAF cleaner at you local auto store, you can use it to clean both the MAF and O2 sensors, it is relatively easy to do the MAF a little more involving to do the O2 as you have to get under the car and unscrew then (you need the proper tool), and make sure you disconnect the battery long enough to reset the ECU when you do this.

Hope this help.

 

thanks for the suggestions. i don't think anything is wrong though. car feels pretty strong. i think the dyno was wacky. i've been there numerous times with current and past cars with no issues. when i get a chance i'll throw it on another dyno somewhere.

 

I cant view the vids here at work, but aside from the peak #, what did the rest of the graph look like? If you can, post up an overlay between the stock #s and the new ones. Its not necessarily the peak # that makes your car fast, but the area below the curve

 

Hmnn both local dyno shops here use air circulators in-front to prevent heat soak/still air. Didn't notice one in the vid

 

up to 3700 it was just a little above stock. the rest of the way the line was just below stock until the last moment when it briefly jumped above again.

 

Sound NICE!!!!!

Try going to a new Dyno Jet or one with the newest software upgrade and make sure it is a 2wd. The IS-F at 6th gear where it is 1/1 it will pull over 170 MPH and that seems to cause a lot of problems for people. We actually had to redo all our number cause there was no way to get consistent numbers at the original place we used for the R&D. They had a 4wd dyno jet with the older software and every time we did a pull it produced different numbers.

Another hint is you need to completely turn off the traction... (Hold the button for about 10 secs and it will display that it is completely disabled.) Put the car in Sport Mode and you have good ventilation ( Fans in the front scoop of the car.) The fans are also a major part of the Dyno runs because you can starve the car from air causing all kinds of power lose...

If you need any other hints let me know.

BTW we tried just changing the air filter on the IS-F and produced power gains so there needs to be something wrong with those numbers. Also 365 is really a high number for a stock IS-F.

 

If you can't find a new Dyno Jet try running it on 5th gear so the car doesn't hit the 170. The power will be a little lower but it will be closer to what you really have.

Mustang Dyno's have a tendency of being 11% to 12% lower then a Dyno Jet depending on the Correction Factor that was set on the Mustang. Don't quote me on that I read it somewhere and check with a couple friends... If it's true your car should be in the 400 range....

 

i did all but one run in 6th. my run in 5th produced the same number as 6th. runs in 6th hit the 170 speedo limit. run in 5th hits redline. traction control was completely off and i was in sport mode. fan was on in front of the car.

 

I would take it somewhere else. Dyno jet seems to be the only way to go when it comes to reading power. Also what did you use to get the 365 for your OEM numbers. That seems really high but it can happen. I hope your right so when you hit a dyno jet it can be closer to the 400 mark. We have confidence in our product and have reproduced our numbers enough to know that you will have great power increases.

Janoy

 

here is a good thread about this subject.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-f...o-dynojet.html

 

it was a dynojet. same one i used for the baseline last year. conditions were very near last time. temp was less than 1 degree higher.

 

Yeah thanks for the Sheet!

That is wicked. I hope when you put your car back on the Dyno Jet you break 400 WHP!