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IIRC the fuel pressure sensor has its own part number??? I can only find it w/ the rail assembly. I'm about to do the same thing, including the sub harness.
I was also kind of wondering what issues might arise if the gasket/grommet from the pcv system going into the block fails. Looks like an absolute nightmare to replace...
I thought about that too, and yes, there's no way you'll get to that with the engine in the car.
Toyota 89458-22010 - SENSOR, FUEL PRESSURE and Toyota 90430-12026 - BOLT, UNION (FOR FUEL PIPE NO.2) are what you need to replace the FP sensor itself. There are zero instructions for doing this, and Lexus has taken the position you must replace the entire rail because the lawyers are terrified of fuel leaks. I'm planning to mark my existing one across the sensor and the rail, then loosen the sensor and retighten it until the marks align to figure out what the torque value is for this because there's no spec for it.
I'm assuming you've seen the procedure in the ELF recall? its specifies 58 in-lbs, then use the "UR torque angle plate" to turn it a specified distance using the plate. Looks like the trick would be getting your hands on the torque angle plate
Edit: It also mentions spraying the sensor threads with Pando 39C. I do see some listed on ebay, but that's it.
Edit2: the IS350 uses the same gasket on its hpf sensor, and they specify 23ft/lbs without using sst
Yep. Saw that procedure. Getting the torque tool is not possible for anyone outside of a dealership unless you have an inside source at a dealership. That tool is basically a beam type torque adapter, so it's not simply the angle (or it would be dead easy), it's the torque applied to the rod connected to the sensor and tool.
Nice find on the 2GR-FSE! That might be the ticket.
That is awesome! Those procedures have been deprecated ever since the fuel pressure sensor recall. The lawyers decided a reasonable mechanic is unable to perform this task correctly, so they've decided you must buy the entire fuel rail with the sensor installed instead.
Big time THANK YOU for this info!!!
I have a socket deep enough to go directly over the sensor easily, so no crazy SST needed. Honestly, I've seen that SST in the manuals before and it's a piece of garbage IMHO. They want you to use this same piece for the nut on the driveshaft center bearing.
hey lobux - I've been through basically everything you have mentioned, running UEL headers with oem ppe extensions (i have spare Megan racing ones but never need to instal them although for a good while I thought i had to), full custom exhaust with 2 x 400cpsi cats and "defoulers" which work, for a good year we tried to find out the reason of cel and system too rich codes and it was the most simple thing noone thought of (because I've cleaned MAF) multiple times.
I get system too rich DTCs when it's really cold. Right now in the 50's to 70'sF, it runs between -10% and -15% LTFT all the time. When it gets below freezing 32F or 0C, it drops to -25% to -35% and when it hits -30% it sets the too rich DTC.
afaik the dtcs are set if its either above +20 or below - 20
so after dealing with everything, thinking that something is broken somewhere deeper in the engine I've checked headers, headers o2 extension and everything was good. I never really thought of the MAF sensor because I have cleaned it multiple times - but someone just pointed at it, so I've simply replaced the MAF sensor for brand new one and problem is now solved. I know it sounds stupid but that's how it was
OK. I thought the same thing and I've cleaned mine twice with CRC MAF cleaner. I have a new one ready to install. It was on my list of things to try next. At least next before replacing the fuel pressure sensor and the knock sensors. I have all the parts, but the FPS and the knock sensors are not a trivial task.
Yes, a new MAF made a big difference in fuel trims. Much closer to zero than before, but also a lot more reactive. KFV and KCLV are still having volatile moments, but they seem considerably more stable than they were before.
Yes, a new MAF made a big difference in fuel trims. Much closer to zero than before, but also a lot more reactive. KFV and KCLV are still having volatile moments, but they seem considerably more stable than they were before.
happy to hear it helped.
If u want more "stable" kclv, or higher kclv then the tricky part starts here.
Disassemble all 16 injectors and get them cleaned by professionals, (not the BG cleaner which people add to the tank)and if possible replace the fuel filter in the tank.
