Disclaimer No, this review is not prompted by anything from anyone other than me, and I get nothing from Figs for providing this information. /Disclaimer

This weekend I installed the new FIGS competiton radiator with the transmission cooling loop in my IS F. I've been waiting for this to show up, but then ran into delays mostly related to weather, so the install had to wait. (Side note) - when I did my cam chain tensioner replacement, I didn't have the right o-rings for the A/C condenser, so I put it back together with the used ones. It wasn't a good plan. It only held pressure for about 10 days before the pressure dropped too low for the compressor to work properly. Really not a big deal at this time of year because it's not hot enough to really need cooling, AND I knew it would be easy to remove the condenser when I did the radiator replacement without worrying about losing R-134a since pressure dropped to zero anyway. So the install was a dual remedy - new all aluminum radiator AND fixing the bad o-ring(s) in the A/C, but the outside temperature has to be over 50F to charge the system according to the FSM. (/Side note).

The install was uneventful but did have a twist. The nipple next to the upper hose connection comes with two sizes available for the connection. One is for the old style hose, a small diameter, the other is for the later model hose, much larger in diameter. When I had my cooling fan LSB done, I got the late model radiator and reservoir because the small nipple broke when they removed the hose. So my reservoir has the larger hose. I trimmed off the small part and chamfered the nipple where it was cut with a tapered reamer and pressed on with the project.

I figured out how to do the install without removing the bumper cover, so I completed the job without removing it at all. The service manual would have you disassemble most of the front to do this. I'd never do that unless I wanted to change the bumper cover. Airbox and intake tube came out, radiator reservoir came out after draining the coolant and disconnecting the coolant hoses, fans came out, radiator support came out and got put to the side so I didn't have to remove the latch and realign anything, disconnected the A/C lines from the condenser, disconnected the ATF cooler lines from the OEM radiator (only a couple of ounces of fluid came out, much to my surprise - thought it would be a lot more), lifted out the radiator and the A/C condenser as a unit.

From there assembly was very straight forward - move the A/C condenser to the new radiator, put the new radiator and A/C condenser assembly in the car using the OEM mounts, put new O-rings on the A/C lines connecting to the condenser, then just reassemble in reverse order. Once everything was in place, I hooked up my vacuum pump and pulled the A/C system down for 20 minutes - I wanted to be sure the receiver/dryer got some recharge time, so I let it run for a while. While that was happening, I added about a quart of ATF to the transmission and prepped everything for setting the level in the gearbox.

The A/C charge is 500g +/- 50g (17.63 oz +/- 1.80 oz). I put in about 528g (there were some small losses I could not accurately account for, so I went a little over the ideal 500g specification), I was able to get the system fully charged without running the engine at all. I was very happy for this as it meant I could focus entirely on getting the transmission fluid up to temperature and the level set without being concerned about the A/C charge.

I added the coolant I removed, and was not at all surprised it needed more. The easy way to do this is to remove the plug from the top of the radiator where the large hose connects, fill the system until it bleeds a little from there, cap it off, then fill the reservoir to almost the top. Squeeze the upper hose a few times to get some air out, then let the system take care of itself from there. I put the cap on the reservoir and started the engine to get ready to set the ATF level. As soon as I did, the level in the reservoir dropped, and by the time I finished the ATF, it was at the full mark when warm.

Most of the quart I added to the gearbox came out. Probably could have used as little as 8 ounces and still been fine. It was a little cool starting out and took about 5 minutes to get up to temperature. I used Techstream for this, but you don't have to if you just follow the instructions in the Mother of All changing ATF threads post #99.

At that point, it was road test time. A/C blasted stupid cold. Nothing leaked. Transmission behaved normally. And NOW, I have an all aluminum radiator including the transmission cooling loop in the bottom. I couldn't be happier!!!

 

Parts list would be awesome on this as well for anything needed, but nicely done Lance.

 

The only parts beyond the radiator itself were the O-rings for the A/C. There are three sizes, and I replaced 3 O-rings where I had previously disconnected the lines while doing the cam chain tensioners. Those parts are:

90099-14119 - condenser small
90099-14120 - condenser large
90099-14121 - joint near the low pressure connection/ECM

You could also get some foam weather stripping for between the bottom of the condenser and the bottom of the radiator (as it comes from the factory) and some more at the top of the radiator (as it comes from the factory) and the sides (as it comes from the factory). Lexus does not sell the foam separately. No surprise there. Honestly, I didn't bother with it. I might regret it at the track, but seeing how deteriorated this foam is doesn't make me keen on stuffing some more in there unless I can find something very heat resistant.

 

Glad to hear someone has picked this up. Wish he had come out about 6 months sooner as I would have gone this route vs another OEM replacement.

 

Is this a direct replacement, upgrade without any downside vs OEM?

 

Yes, 100%. No mods, no additional coolers, fit just like OEM and holds more coolant than stock. Also, no plastic tanks to crack and leak. All aluminum construction.

 

Great reviews. Do you know if the OEM radiator already has a integrated transmission cooling loop?

 

It does. That's the big deal about this one from Figs. It retains the factory configuration.

 

@lobuxracer have you had it on track since? Does it keep temps under control better than the stock unit? I’ve only autocrossed my IS-F and haven’t tracked it since I’m concerned of overheating. I have other cars to track, but I need a new radiator for the IS-F and it would be nice if the Figs unit will allow me to track it.

 

I've not tracked it, but I've never had a problem with coolant temperatures at the track (even on a 102F day) with the OEM unit, so I'd really be surprised if the Figs unit wasn't at least as good.

 

@lobuxracer what about transmission temps? Did you ever have problems with the OEM unit? I've seen some people say it's an issue, but I haven't tried myself. I mostly track other cars, but want to prep the ISF to do a track day or two a year.

 

Engine oil temps are a real problem. I never had a problem with ATF temps even at 102F ambient.